I joined this forum only a couple of weeks ago and this is my very first time posting. Please be patient if I end up asking a question that has been answered a number of times before.

I recently bought a Turbo 3.6, completely stock. When I was looking for a car to buy I thought that the “completely stock” part was very important. No loud, smoky exhaust for me. But now I hear the siren song of higher horsepower in the background. I am not sure if I will be able to resist…

I would like to ask two questions:

1. Are there any differences between the European and American versions of the Turbo 3.6? The Americans have been known to go a little overboard with the emission standards, robbing cars of their power. Maybe I should take the Turbo back to Euro-spec if this is indeed the case.

2. Are there any “Must-Have-Mods” for the Turbo 3.6? If I would allow myself just one, what should it be?

Any insights would be greatly appreciated.

 

Hi - there is a search buuton at the top right of the page.Delve into there and you will find a treasure trove of info and experience.Try typing in cat-bypass for starters.Welcome aboard and now post pics of your car!

 

Welcome to the forum!

First off, your first post with a new car MUST contain pictures. Please let us see what you got.

With respect to mods, my recommendations would be to drive the car for a while and make sure it runs well. If your car is stilll bone stock and you still have the US (SUV) ride height my first recommendation would be to go for Euro height (or lower) springs.

If you want to mod the engine for better torque, less turbo lag and more hp, try headers (I have B&B but there are others) and the 1 bar boost spring. As a next step you could do the cat bypass, except that your car won't be street legal anymore at that point.

Enjoy your new baby in good health - we want pictures!!!

 

100 cell cat should be emissions legal and extra sounds and power very similar to bypass.

 

Your rules are fair and just. Any -additional- help with the "Must-have-Mods" would be greatly appreciated....

I will try a picture (obviously immediately after a wash) :

 

Oooh, that's nice. Even completely stock these cars are just jaw droppingly gorgeous!

 

Great taste!

 

Super !

 

Lovely car!! I would start with a bit more boost, 0.9 or 1.0bar and then have it on a dyno to make sure the AFR's are OK, quick way of getting more power and probably the cheapest thing you'll ever do, easily reversible too! And then get some clear indicator lenses up front, will add at least 100bhp

 

JBL,
Do you really think boost spring is the way to go? These cars are too fast for the road anyway, and the boost is wicked already.
The exhaust on these 965's (as opposed to the 930's!) is too quiet so needs spicing up. That'd get my vote.

I agree with the lenses...and ducts give the 965 a little more agression.
HID/ Xenon headlights are a worthwhile mod too.

 

I'm just a power junkie, that's why mine is around 500bhp, to be honest I was really disappointed with the car as standard, the lag was just unbearable and 300bhp was pretty tame. The extra 200bhp hasn't made the car anymore of a handful than it was, infact it's easier to drive as the turbo spools so low in the rev range you don't get that sudden shove in the back you do with the standard car. Fastcarnut is obviously after more power and like Frank said earlier the first call is more boost, followed by smother delivery which would be headers (B&B or 9m) and then he's probably going to want a bigger turbo, his intercooler is good as are his cams so those are the obvious changes. What would the extra boost give him? An extra 30bhp? Well worth it

 

JBL,
In isolation, won't the extra 30bhp from the spring simply make it more of a handful?

Surely, you only get the extra surge when the boost comes in, thereby making the difference between off and on boost all the more exaggerated...

 

Guys, thanks for the discussion, this is good stuff.

According to my Owner's Manual (page 60):

"When the engine speed reaches approx. 4000 rpm during acceleration, the boost pressure should be between 0.6 and 0.7 bar. If a defect causes the boost pressure to exceed this figure considerable, a safety switch cuts off the fuel supply."

It is my understanding that the 1.0 bar boost spring raises the bar (pun intended) and allows a higher maximum boost, without changing the boost when it first kicks in. Am I wrong?

 

Fast Car Nut,

Sweet looking car and welcome to Rennlist! I have your twin (see below). Is this the car that was for sale in Oswego?

Will you be attending any upcoming PCA events? I'm not an expert on the Mods, however, this is an incredible forum. You will learn more than you can even absorb here. Congrats and ENJOY!!
_________________
1994 911 3.6 Turbo black/black
1993 911 RSA - sold
1986 911 Carrera - sold

 

Is it acceptable to use grainger valves (ball and spring setup) on these cars? I've used several in the past to great effect on the Toyota 3SGTE engine series. That way you don't have to worry about wastegate springs, you can adjust the amount of air bled away from the actuator by very small fractions until you're happy with the maximum boost level you attain.