Kiwi Carguy

Hi guy's. I need some help with my rear handbrake.

John McM

My data service has the following instructions for adjusting the Turbo 3.6's parking brake. Judging by the Turbo 3.6 workshop manual not citing a difference, I'd say this is the same for the 3.3 turbo.

Reading all of this, I'd take it to a shop if there's major work, adjusting looks difficult enough, let alone replacing first. Still these will help if you do decide to go ahead. BTW: I have no accompanying pictures.

Raise and support vehicle.
Remove rear wheels.
Release brake cable tension at adjusting nuts behind disc splash shield.
Insert screwdriver into adjustment opening in rear brake disc assembly.
Rotate parking brake adjustment sprocket so that disc can no longer be rotated by hand.
Repeat step 5 on opposite side.
Adjust cable tension until slack is removed by rotating adjustment nuts behind brake disc splash shield.
Remove tunnel cover and parking brake lever boot and check position of cable equalizer.
Position the equalizer in the two inspection holes when lever is pulled up.
To adjust the position of equalizer, rotate the adjustment nuts behind splash shield.
After equalizer has been properly positioned, lock adjustment nuts.
Back off adjustment sprockets inside each brake drum 4-5 teeth, so that disc rotates freely. The parking brake should be set when the lever is pulled up 2 clicks.

BTW: Shoes are part # 99635299300 and cost USD 139.05 at Pelican parts for a set of four.

JBH

I'm not exactly certain from your post where you have a problem or what you are looking for. Maybe this helps. - at least you can see all the parts identified in John's post.

Here's your rotor and brake assy:


Here's the handbrake pads and parts:


And here is the handbrake lever and cables:

JBH

A few things:
Your handbrake pads look ok - you may need to adjust the tension. The roughness on the inside of the rotor seems ok (you want a lot of friction), but the crack does not. I would replace that rotor.

You should not apply your handbrake after a track session - the rotors are still way too hot. Find a level surface or block your tires.

Your soft brake occurred because you boiled your brake fluid at the calipers, By pulling in then going back out, you lost the cooling of flowing air. You need to drive longer to cool down your car - this is why at the end of a track session, final laps are taken without using the brakes.

Good lesson learned - when going out to the track, even after a short stop, always test your brakes on the straight well ahead of your normal braking point.

Great pictures - thanks for sharing your experience.

JasonAndreas

"HowTo: Checking and Adjusting Parking Brake" from the 964 DIY Forum.

JBH

I would say it is not common to have a soft brake when coming into the pits. The brakes go soft because the brake fluid is being vaporized and those gases are very compressible - hence the loss of the pedal. As long as you continue flowing air across the brakes, there is enough cooling to prevent this.

The key is to allow the brakes to cool to a temperature low enough before entering pits that the fluid won't boil once the air flow stops. This is the purpose of the cool-down lap - it should be taken with no use of the brakes.

Sorry if I am telling you things you already know.

Jason: great DIY text and photos!

Ruf-Dan-Ruf

If it was Dongs GT3 I would have just hit him ....... lol just kidd'n .... couldn't resist.

38D

Np. You're brake should always be firm. Period. Are you using a good fluid like Motul or SRF?