PorschePhD

DOH, brain cramp. You have a 3.6, my bad. The line comes off of the chain housing. It interrupts the bridge and passes oil to the turbo. I would just replace the line. It is a tator to get to and really is not worth cobbling up. I really don't like cutting and reusing a hose clamp on feed line to the turbos. There is a reason the factory didn't and honestly it is hard not to get junk in the line or the turbo. That is bad. If you need the part number let me know. I have it.

cobalt

Charlie,

Does your HF have the additional veins on the hot side also I believe it was 16 vs 12.

There is a guy here in NJ I believe his name is ART. He has a set of B&B headers for sale off his 3.6T engine barely used and less expensive than from B&B. I believe he is advertising on the PCA site. May be worth a shot. You should see boost earlier.

Kevin

Anthony the turbine side is original K27-7200, the cold side has the 16 bladed high efficiency compressor wheel..

cobalt

Thats what I thought but could not remember. Yet the picture (maybe the angle) seems to show only 8 blades. I thought the additional blades were more obvious.

Kevin

They are definately there...

DrJupeman

Yeah, I only see 8 externally. All I know is there are some super smart people (Kevin!) who figure out how to make these things go. The cool side fan on the stock unit is anything but "normal fan" looking to me!

Stephen, I will ping you offline about the part and line. I will take your advice and simply replace the line if "tator" means "easy enough that you can do it"... (and as I was driving to work today I was worrying about metal bits getting into the line as a result of cutting, etc., so replacing the whole line does seem safer in that regard)

38D

If i remember correctly, the other blades were sort of below the other 8 (i.e. you could only see them from an angle). I think I took a picture of this; maybe DrJupe can check his camera.

DrJupeman

You can't see more than the eight in any of your pics.

38D

Doh

DrJupeman

OK, when last we left Tubbo's turbo change saga, the oil feed line was leaking around a crimp. I ordered a new line from ImagineAuto and set about replacing it today.

The non-turbo end is buried on the driver's side of the car, under the intercooler and distributor. So both of these had to come out.

Note the oil sludge around the intake - I suspect this is from my old (now removed) turbo and is the reason I changed the old turbo in the first place:



The more I do work on my car, the smarter I become! Building on my experience from a few years back when changed the caps and rotors on my C2, I was sure to mark the plug wires before removing everything:



Here's the culprit:



Here's the new line installed. I mounted the turbo side first. To remove the old line and put on the new basically required me to go through all the steps to remove the turbo again. Frankly, the most annoying part of the procedure is figuring out the sequence to screw the three "turbo bracket" screws back into the block. I've done this twice now and it doesn't seem possible to simply screw them in. You need to get everything aligned "just right" which requires fiddling with how tightly you screw in one, etc...



I primed the line, then let the line prime into the turbo a bit more, then started her up. No leaks, so I headed out on the road. My driver's side seat belt isn't pulling out right now so I didn't go far. After going "around the block" (~5 miles) I returned home and put the car up on the lift again to check for leaks. There was no more leak at the new oil line, but there was slight seepage around the oil drain line. I tightened up those bolts a bit more. There was some sort of seepage from the turbo itself, which was alarming.

Kevin, I couldn't tell, but it almost looked like a coating on the hot side was melting. Is there some sort of sealant or something that might melt and run?

It is obviously too early to tell what difference the K27HF makes since Kevin requests a no-boost break-in of 50-100 miles. I hope to fix my seat belt tomorrow and drive the car to work this week (weather permitting!) so that I can start testing this turbo.

cobalt

Nice Job!!

In the end the rewards will be great. I think you will find the HF K27 to be more than worth the effort and now you know its done right.

The sludge you suspect to be from the turbo, what concerns you, the color or the sludge? Aren't you supposed to apply a thin layer of grease to seal the O-ring to the IC? Is it possible it was this that just pulled up when you removed the IC?

DrJupeman

There was oil on the inside of the intercooler housing, so I presumed this was the sludge build-up. Good point on the grease, I suspect it is "oiled grease" in the picture.

cobalt

Need to break that puppy in before you test it. The extra long way to work this week, huh.

Looking forward to your opinion. I think you will have a whole new appreciation for what tubbo is capable of.

DrJupeman

I hope to be amazed. Frankly, I thought my car rocked in the first place. I went K27HF because of the leaks on my old K27 and the feeling that if I was going to spend $900 to fix them I might as well spend $1500 on an upgrade. Besides, the K27HF comes so highly recommended. I am very anxious to feel the difference!

Kevin

Charlie;
KKK applies grey anti-seize around the bearing housing to turbine housing to aid removal when the turbocharger needs repaired. There is also anti-seize that I apply to all the turbine housing bolts and clamps... The most stop and go grocery trips that you can make in the next 100 miles will increase the lifespan of your new turbo.. Are you running Mobil 1?