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R134a Fitting Orientation

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Old 05-21-2017 | 09:56 PM
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Default R134a Fitting Orientation

I'm in the process of converting my AC to R134a and purchased 90 degree conversion fittings similar to the ones recommended in the Porsche R134a Conversion TSB. I have the high side pointing toward the rear of the car but I am concerned about being easily able to remove the oil filter when that time rolls around. If I used a straight adapter on the high side I don't believe I wouldn't have enough clearance to get the gauge fitting on and off. I am curious about what orientation others have placed their fittings in? I want to have it adjusted for right before I charge it with refrigerant.
Old 05-21-2017 | 10:34 PM
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Mine are straight not angled. It's tight next to filter. But a snap on ac machine is able to fit.
Old 05-21-2017 | 11:22 PM
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What about the oil filter coming on and off?
Old 05-22-2017 | 02:22 AM
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No issues getting filter off. Is show you mine but I wont be around the car for 3 weeks
Old 05-22-2017 | 07:19 AM
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Same experience as Spyerx however you might burn your hand on the filter while hooking up the gauges. Not all oil filters are the same size. I believe I use Mahle and it works out but I've seen other brand filters be slightly longer and could see it being an issue.
Old 05-23-2017 | 12:12 PM
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Another question, how does the bulkhead connector come apart up above the receiver dryer? The piping in the frunk is covered with insulation and I can't tell if there is a fitting down in there. PET says there are two O-rings to replace. There is a flange #21 in PET and it looks like I remove bolt #22 and the pipe assembly comes off giving access to the o-rings. Are any o-rings in the frunk accessible without removing the fuel tank? Looks only the evaporator, expansion valve, and high pressure switch o-rings are in there and from what I've read the evaporator is not a job I have time for right now.
Old 05-23-2017 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mystert
Looks only the evaporator, expansion valve, and high pressure switch o-rings are in there.
That is correct.

The o-rings on the pass-through lines above the drier are accessed through the fenderwell. My memory is rusty, but I believe those two unions are held together by a single parallel caphead bolt in the middle of both of them.
Old 05-23-2017 | 06:05 PM
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Ok thanks. I am rounding up bulb seal and foam to replace the worn out stuff on the condensor. Taking the condensor out of the bracket to clean it after work today and I'll replace those o-rings. I wish I had an air compressor still to give the lines a good flush. Might just pour some laquer thinner in the lines that run fore/aft and blow it out old fashioned style and let it evaporate in the sun for a few days. Hopefully I'll have it all up and cooling next week some time. It held vacuum with the previous o-rings so I'm sure I don't have a major evaporator or condensor leak. I'm using Nylog Blue on all
the o-rings. That stuff is messy!
Old 05-23-2017 | 06:13 PM
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That's correct - part #21 is a plate that slips behind both swaged "flanges" on the hard tubing to compress them into part #20. The hoses/tubing then can be removed through the rubber boot, part#6.

I just replaced my evaporator - no spare parts left over but it's a big job.



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