A few issues with LEDs in the taillights
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
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Hey guys,
I upgraded all my bumper lights to LEDs from the recommended replacements by Superbrightleds.com
2 issues arose:
1) When I hit the brakes, with the headlights on, the brakelights only change a slight amount. Not very noticeable change difference...
2) Only with the headlights on, there is a small voltage leak to the 3rd brake light keeping it on a faintish amount. Hitting the brake makes the 3rd brake light go very strong on, and then backing off the brake returns to a faintish red.
Best,
Kris
I upgraded all my bumper lights to LEDs from the recommended replacements by Superbrightleds.com
2 issues arose:
1) When I hit the brakes, with the headlights on, the brakelights only change a slight amount. Not very noticeable change difference...
2) Only with the headlights on, there is a small voltage leak to the 3rd brake light keeping it on a faintish amount. Hitting the brake makes the 3rd brake light go very strong on, and then backing off the brake returns to a faintish red.
Best,
Kris
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DobermanDad (02-13-2020)
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
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Thanks 02m2, from what I've read, the flash relay activates the turn signals correctly.
But the tiny voltage leak with headlights on on the 3rd brake, does that get fixed by the relay?
And also, the fact that the brake lights don't change that much when the headlights are on, I can't imagine the relay fixes that?
But the tiny voltage leak with headlights on on the 3rd brake, does that get fixed by the relay?
And also, the fact that the brake lights don't change that much when the headlights are on, I can't imagine the relay fixes that?
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#9
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Let me check when I get to the office tomorrow but think it was around $500. You need to get some clips and glue from porsche with it. You have to order euro glass without the us spec third brake light. Think that was around another $1400-1500 plus shipping from Germany. I then did the led third brake upgrade from Tore.
#11
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Could the voltage leak be due to a faulty brake switch? Thinking that there might be a small amount of contact in the disengaged position. Try unplugging it and see if the light still stays on faintly?
#13
Nordschleife Master
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I think the faint 3rd brake light has something to do with the lack of load from the LED bulbs. I once had the car on with all the taillights removed and noticed the 3rd brake light behavior you describe. It's probably some type of rudimentary safety feature in the event all your taillights get smashed, the car will still retain a luminated rear-facing light.
As far as the differentiation between tail lights and brake lights, it just depends on the LED bulb I guess. I kept the incandescent bulbs in my brake lights for this very reason and only run LED on the 3rd brake light and on my 4th and 5th brake light sockets (center reflector mod).
As far as the differentiation between tail lights and brake lights, it just depends on the LED bulb I guess. I kept the incandescent bulbs in my brake lights for this very reason and only run LED on the 3rd brake light and on my 4th and 5th brake light sockets (center reflector mod).
#14
Rennlist Member
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Thanks for the references guys.
I have done a lot of testing to find suitable LED bulbs for use in the 964 and 993. The 1157 rear/brake bulbs needs to be of a suitable type, as well as the 1157 front turn signals in US cars. Some LED brands causes unwanted shorts between the two curcuits involved in the bulbs. (park/brake and park/turn signals) There must also be a sufficient load on the brake circuit to not experience flickering.
My Smart Ballast product is meant to put a load on the brake light circuit that will fool the cruise control to believe that normal incandescent bulbs are installed, and will not solve the problems mentioned above.
Cheers,
Tore
I have done a lot of testing to find suitable LED bulbs for use in the 964 and 993. The 1157 rear/brake bulbs needs to be of a suitable type, as well as the 1157 front turn signals in US cars. Some LED brands causes unwanted shorts between the two curcuits involved in the bulbs. (park/brake and park/turn signals) There must also be a sufficient load on the brake circuit to not experience flickering.
My Smart Ballast product is meant to put a load on the brake light circuit that will fool the cruise control to believe that normal incandescent bulbs are installed, and will not solve the problems mentioned above.
Cheers,
Tore
#15
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hey kris what exact Color Code is this please? Thanks!
Originally Posted by verticalflight;[url=tel:13888452
13888452[/url]]Hey guys,
I upgraded all my bumper lights to LEDs from the recommended replacements by Superbrightleds.com
2 issues arose:
1) When I hit the brakes, with the headlights on, the brakelights only change a slight amount. Not very noticeable change difference...
2) Only with the headlights on, there is a small voltage leak to the 3rd brake light keeping it on a faintish amount. Hitting the brake makes the 3rd brake light go very strong on, and then backing off the brake returns to a faintish red.
Best,
Kris
I upgraded all my bumper lights to LEDs from the recommended replacements by Superbrightleds.com
2 issues arose:
1) When I hit the brakes, with the headlights on, the brakelights only change a slight amount. Not very noticeable change difference...
2) Only with the headlights on, there is a small voltage leak to the 3rd brake light keeping it on a faintish amount. Hitting the brake makes the 3rd brake light go very strong on, and then backing off the brake returns to a faintish red.
Best,
Kris