heel toe and stock pedal box
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
heel toe and stock pedal box
All:
The pedal offset in my 964 isn't to my liking. I don't mean side to side - but depth. The middle of the gas pedal is about 3" more recessed than my brake making it next to impossible for me to heel toe. I have looked for adjustments to either sink the brake pedal further back or bring the top of the gas pedal further forward. Is there a straight forward adjustment here without just bolting a pad onto the gas pedal?
I recognize that I habitually use the side of my foot more than my heel for the gas, so maybe this is just a personal adjustment I need to make to how I drive the car?
Matt
The pedal offset in my 964 isn't to my liking. I don't mean side to side - but depth. The middle of the gas pedal is about 3" more recessed than my brake making it next to impossible for me to heel toe. I have looked for adjustments to either sink the brake pedal further back or bring the top of the gas pedal further forward. Is there a straight forward adjustment here without just bolting a pad onto the gas pedal?
I recognize that I habitually use the side of my foot more than my heel for the gas, so maybe this is just a personal adjustment I need to make to how I drive the car?
Matt
#2
Rennlist Member
I've heel/toe'd since high school when I learned on an 88 Alfa spider. I've always used the side of my foot to blip... There is no right/wrong way- so long as it works for you and is natural and consistent.
I've never driven a stock car with 3 pedals I can't heel/toe. I think a lot of drivers overthink this.
I've never driven a stock car with 3 pedals I can't heel/toe. I think a lot of drivers overthink this.
#3
Matt, every serious sports car I have ever seen features a brake pedal a few inches higher than the gas pedal. Typically when you’re rocketing towards corner 3 on some local track you’re going to need to really stand on the brakes, get the car to turn-in, and desperately pull off a perfect (heel toe) rev match so you don’t get a jolt of extra engine braking to upset the balance of a car on the edge of traction.
It’s at this point that you realize that you are mashing the brake pedal so hard that the gas and brake pedals are now perfectly at the same height to facilitate an ideal heel and toe brake, shift and rev match.
It’s at this point that you realize that you are mashing the brake pedal so hard that the gas and brake pedals are now perfectly at the same height to facilitate an ideal heel and toe brake, shift and rev match.
#4
Hi. I also blip the throttle with the side of my foot. Good shoes help a lot.
When you take out the pedal box completely, you can adjust the brake and throttle to get the right heights relative to each other. Works well.
When you take out the pedal box completely, you can adjust the brake and throttle to get the right heights relative to each other. Works well.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. I'm not new to heel toe mechanics. This isn't a "how to" question. My question is more related to the adjustability of the stock pedals. Yes, the gas pedal should be recessed behind the brake, but I don't like how far the 964 stock pedal is recessed. This may just be personal preference.
Essex- do I have to take the pedal box out, or just take off the cover to fiddle with it? Is the adjustment obvious?
Essex- do I have to take the pedal box out, or just take off the cover to fiddle with it? Is the adjustment obvious?
#6
Race Car
If you don't hate the fact that the gas pedal of way too far to the right, and you just need it higher....grab the top of the pedal and pull out hard. It'll pop off the shaft. Un do the lock nut and make the shaft longer. Pop it back on.
Otherwise buy a rennline adjustable pedal. Or do as we are and let Hargett know that there is a market for their adjustable pedal which they recently stopped making- that was the best pedal on the market for heal and toe- by a mile. Love mine.
Otherwise buy a rennline adjustable pedal. Or do as we are and let Hargett know that there is a market for their adjustable pedal which they recently stopped making- that was the best pedal on the market for heal and toe- by a mile. Love mine.
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#8
Rennlist Member
If you don't hate the fact that the gas pedal of way too far to the right, and you just need it higher....grab the top of the pedal and pull out hard. It'll pop off the shaft. Un do the lock nut and make the shaft longer. Pop it back on.
Otherwise buy a rennline adjustable pedal. Or do as we are and let Hargett know that there is a market for their adjustable pedal which they recently stopped making- that was the best pedal on the market for heal and toe- by a mile. Love mine.
Otherwise buy a rennline adjustable pedal. Or do as we are and let Hargett know that there is a market for their adjustable pedal which they recently stopped making- that was the best pedal on the market for heal and toe- by a mile. Love mine.
Thanks in advance.
#9
Race Car
#11
No problems with the stock pedal box here as long as you use your heel, really doesnt work for me using the side of your foot. Probably helps for me having size ten feet, any bigger and im sure it would be hard work.
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Goughary-
Thanks for the link. If I want to try and make due by adjusting the pedal, is it designed for me to yank on it to pop it free to try and extend the arm with the lock nut adjustment you mention above? The gas pedal is one of the last things I want to accidentally brake on the car.
Thanks for the link. If I want to try and make due by adjusting the pedal, is it designed for me to yank on it to pop it free to try and extend the arm with the lock nut adjustment you mention above? The gas pedal is one of the last things I want to accidentally brake on the car.
#14
Race Car
Don't worry about breaking it. Pull on the top and it pops off the shaft. If you break it, call me. I have an old used one around somewhere. But I'm sure it won't break. Cuz they don't.
#15
Three Wheelin'
^ the issue with adjusting this to move the pedal out more is that it increases the throw of the pedal before it hits the end stop. This results in strain being taken by the throttle cable and the throttle body. This screw is used to adjust the pedal so that with it flat against the end stop the throttle is fully open without the mech being under strain. What you should be doing is padding out the pedal to move the contact point.