Teardown begins. Suspension madness...
10-14-2015, 08:51 AM
#76
Race Car
Thread Starter
I went with elephant really only because they are identical to oem bushings with the exception that they are 25% harder. Rubber. For a street car, it's a much better option for many reasons, not least of which is poly bushings, unless they are made with a graphite impregnated poly, will eventually squeak and need to be regreased. Rubber is set and forget.
I've heard nothing but good about Wolrod bushings. But I've also heard nothing but good about elephant products. Now having dealt with chick at elephant and having his products in my hand- great people, and fantastic products. The quality of the product is outstanding.
I'll be giving performance reviews soon.
I've heard nothing but good about Wolrod bushings. But I've also heard nothing but good about elephant products. Now having dealt with chick at elephant and having his products in my hand- great people, and fantastic products. The quality of the product is outstanding.
I'll be giving performance reviews soon.
10-14-2015, 12:01 PM
#77
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Great stuff, can't wait to hear your thoughts.
Agree with the poly bushes; I looked into the Powerflex and Super-Pro, the dark blue Super-Pro range seemed to trump the Powerflex for that reason, they've engineered into the plastic faces a surface texture that retains whatever assembly lube they recommend, rather than pushing it back out upon assembly.
Like you say though, heard nothing but excellent reports on Elephant kit, so is featuring very high on my shopping list.
Agree with the poly bushes; I looked into the Powerflex and Super-Pro, the dark blue Super-Pro range seemed to trump the Powerflex for that reason, they've engineered into the plastic faces a surface texture that retains whatever assembly lube they recommend, rather than pushing it back out upon assembly.
Like you say though, heard nothing but excellent reports on Elephant kit, so is featuring very high on my shopping list.
10-14-2015, 02:27 PM
#78
In terms of the bias valve, does the C4 already have the 55 bar proportioning valve? I believe when one of the previous owners of my C2 put four pots in the rear, he swapped from 45 to 55 bar for correct rear bias..
I went with the Superpro about a year and a half ago and am really happy with them, no nvh and all the benefits so far. Was also really into the Elephant bushings, but got an great deal on the SuperPro.
Great stuff, can't wait to hear your thoughts.
Agree with the poly bushes; I looked into the Powerflex and Super-Pro, the dark blue Super-Pro range seemed to trump the Powerflex for that reason, they've engineered into the plastic faces a surface texture that retains whatever assembly lube they recommend, rather than pushing it back out upon assembly.
Like you say though, heard nothing but excellent reports on Elephant kit, so is featuring very high on my shopping list.
Agree with the poly bushes; I looked into the Powerflex and Super-Pro, the dark blue Super-Pro range seemed to trump the Powerflex for that reason, they've engineered into the plastic faces a surface texture that retains whatever assembly lube they recommend, rather than pushing it back out upon assembly.
Like you say though, heard nothing but excellent reports on Elephant kit, so is featuring very high on my shopping list.
10-14-2015, 03:51 PM
#79
Race Car
Thread Starter
Yes. The C4 is 55 bar. I bought a 60 bar valve to add a very little more bias to the rear. I'll test mine first, do some measurements and then switch the valve and see if I can see a marked improvement. If so, I'll be happy, if it's too much rear brake bias, I'll switch back. Gotta test in the rain as well...
10-14-2015, 07:17 PM
#80
Yes. The C4 is 55 bar. I bought a 60 bar valve to add a very little more bias to the rear. I'll test mine first, do some measurements and then switch the valve and see if I can see a marked improvement. If so, I'll be happy, if it's too much rear brake bias, I'll switch back. Gotta test in the rain as well...
10-14-2015, 11:39 PM
#81
Race Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
it's almost impossible to get too much rear brake bias in a 964, even taking the p/v out leaves a lot of front bias unless you have very odd ball calipers installed
10-15-2015, 01:14 AM
#82
Race Car
Thread Starter
Today I used the elephant tool to remove the split cups in the control arm. I was using my spare arm to test it. I had gotten one side off the other day using the hack saw method, and then used the elephant tool on the other side. No idea if there was an issue with the metal used to machine that specific tool, or of my arm is just so corroded that the aluminum and steel are just fused, but I immediately broke the tool.
I discussed it with chuck at elephant, offered to buy another, and he graciously threw a new tool in with the last part of my order that shipped today. So many thanks to elephant for that.
Got some pointers for the newer arms I bought. The bushings are bonded to the steel, so he suggested popping off the steel discs on the end and then using a hole saw to cut the rubber out and then using the tool to tap or press out the cups. Will be trying this when the new tool arrives Friday.
I discussed it with chuck at elephant, offered to buy another, and he graciously threw a new tool in with the last part of my order that shipped today. So many thanks to elephant for that.
Got some pointers for the newer arms I bought. The bushings are bonded to the steel, so he suggested popping off the steel discs on the end and then using a hole saw to cut the rubber out and then using the tool to tap or press out the cups. Will be trying this when the new tool arrives Friday.
10-15-2015, 01:20 AM
#83
Race Car
Thread Starter
And then on to wheel bearings. Front bearings were pressed in today. With the right tools, so far that's been an easy job. Can't believe how shot the old bearings were. Not just the shear amount of play in the bearings, but the hardness and crumbliness of the grease inside. 25 year old grease is not effective. So good thing this is getting done.
Tomorrow we do the rear wheel bearings while the trailing arms are on the car, cuz if you remember from earlier, the ebrake cable was in no way coming off, so the trailing arms are staying on since the bushings there are ok. No need to change those unless they were dead since it's not a track only car.
Tomorrow we do the rear wheel bearings while the trailing arms are on the car, cuz if you remember from earlier, the ebrake cable was in no way coming off, so the trailing arms are staying on since the bushings there are ok. No need to change those unless they were dead since it's not a track only car.
10-15-2015, 11:14 PM
#86
Race Car
Thread Starter
Finished one front control arm. Waiting for a new replacement arm to arrive for his drivers side. And then the elephant sport bushes will be press in there. Getting the split cups out is a pita which ever way you look at it. So I've decided that until I can figure out a better way, the best way is to pop the discs off the ends, drill out the rubber with a hole saw. Hack saw into the lip to make a slit. Hammer that and start prying and hammering until you can get the one cup out. Aka "hacksaw method". Then use a large impact socket as a press tool. And press the other side out. Same with the front bush, I used the elephant tools to press that out and came with some difficulty but eventually popped and came out. Press in the new bushes and all good.
10-15-2015, 11:23 PM
#87
Race Car
Thread Starter
Spring plates. Clearly this car hasn't had an alignment is years. The bolts in the spring plates, even though a few days ago I cracked loose all the nuts. The bolts were, again, completely seized into the holes through the trailing arms. Took HUGE force to get them to turn, and hammering on them with a sledge hammer wasn't budging them to come out. We had to use the 1:3 torque multiplier with a 3/4 inch heavy ratchet with all my force, to break the bolt to turn it 1/16 on a inch, over and over for hours before I could then sit there for another hour with an impact wrench and then to slowly crawl one revolution every few minutes till it finally started really turning and then let lose and zipped out. Was a bit insane. We tried everything but heat. And just didn't want to use a torch under the car when there was oil and gas and fluids around. Heat would have made it a faster job, but we go them in the end. Needless to say, spring plate rehab is tomorrow.
10-16-2015, 12:05 AM
#89
Race Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jpar
Wow, you have a lot going on over there. Aren't you glad you bought a press?
10-16-2015, 12:12 AM
#90
Rennlist Member
Spring plates. Clearly this car hasn't had an alignment is years. The bolts in the spring plates, even though a few days ago I cracked loose all the nuts. The bolts were, again, completely seized into the holes through the trailing arms. Took HUGE force to get them to turn, and hammering on them with a sledge hammer wasn't budging them to come out. We had to use the 1:3 torque multiplier with a 3/4 inch heavy ratchet with all my force, to break the bolt to turn it 1/16 on a inch, over and over for hours before I could then sit there for another hour with an impact wrench and then to slowly crawl one revolution every few minutes till it finally started really turning and then let lose and zipped out. Was a bit insane. We tried everything but heat. And just didn't want to use a torch under the car when there was oil and gas and fluids around. Heat would have made it a faster job, but we go them in the end. Needless to say, spring plate rehab is tomorrow.