BLACK-BETTY

Great stuff. What suspension and wheels do you plan to run?

cobalt

My initial intention was to build a 3.8 RS tribute keeping everything as close to factory as possible but the cost is prohibitive. To build a proper 3.8 RS engine to factory spec would cost as much as this entire project is setting me back. The twin turbo 993 race engine with short gear box, RS clutch etc was too reasonable to pass up and will have more power with a similar power curve but far more torque.

I have ERP solid bushings all around. I will be using H&R supercup shocks and springs all mono ball setup with their camber plates. IIRC the spring rates are 455 front 685 rear they may need to be adjusted depending on final weight. I am torn between the set of factory RS sways I have in my C2 with tarret drop links or buying the H&R sways with Tarret drop links. I think the rear RS bar is too small. The cage and seam welding will make it very stiff and precise. I have a set of 993 aluminum wheel carriers I am considering using along with the 993 support bars for the front. They will allow for better tuning of the suspension with the longer tabs. I have a factory RS strut brace so I will use that as well.

Wheels are in the planning stage. I am considering taking the Fikse's I have and widening them. It is all dependent on if they have the fine threads or not. The earlier fine threads have a tendency to strip and can be a problem widening. I have a set of Mach V's and FM10's I can buy barrels to expand them to 18 x 9 ET +51 fronts and 18 x 12 ET +12. If this doesn't work out I will custom order some HRE's of Forgline in the sizes I want. Unfortunately, there are no inexpensive alternative one piece wheels with these offsets. I am trying to avoid spacers larger than 15mm if I can. I only need a single set to start and can make changes later. I was considering larger fronts but I think it will be too much for my wife. I have not worked out actual tires sizes yet and wheels may be adjusted depending on what fits the budget better. Most likely 235/245 fronts and 305/315 rears or close to that depending on dia, cost etc.

Whatever wheels I use i will have them powder coated in satin black to work with the maritime. This car will have all satin black accents numbers etc.

Brakes are standard 3.8 RS/turbo 3.6 big reds with aluminum hats and slotted rotors with the electrohydraulic booster.

Loopy

Good observation about the wheel carriers. I wonder if the vibration is a subtle difference over the factory upright, as I plan on doing the full evo uprights once I start looking for a 964.

Great progress. Love checking into this thread for more updates

cobalt

Pino just finished the first coat of maritime and sent me some pictures.

I am psyched can't wait to see it in person when it is buffed out.

Reminds me of non metallic cobalt.

911Jetta

+1

and a big WOW!

cobalt

Thanks

I tell you Pino is the man he does incredible work. No wonder his 65 broke the record for highest priced to date and there are a few others going up for auction soon he did incredible work on.

My big concern is this will be too nice to track when he is done.

cobalt

Stopped by last night and Pino was putting the final coats on so I couldn't get a closer look. He sent me these later with the final coats completed.

I love the way it looks like liquid candy when they are freshly painted.

I had to enlarge these since he texted them to me.

I will get better photos later today.

Ken D

Wow, what a beauty!

It will be, no doubt about that...probably best to liberally apply paint protection film

cobalt

Thankfully I have another friend who is one of the best in the business when it comes to clear bra. Now that I have until April until my first event with this beast I have the time to let the paint cure and a lot of finishing details to be done.

ilko

Boy, you move quickly! When I saw Cindy last week she told me you guys were still deciding on the color...

Sweet, sweet, sweet build! Have to stop by and see it.

And yes, Pino is the man when it comes to paint. A true master in his art.

Saint-Vieux

Soon she'll will be a beautiful ride, not sure if you want to put her a track!... But again she was born addicted to it.

boxsey911

Great project. Keep the faith of the original idea....it MUST go on track regularly.

cobalt

So I should be picking the car up Saturday of all goes well.

I have to admit it is a stunning color not my normal taste but fits the car perfectly.

There has always been the question about why Porsche painted the lower portion of the rockers black and others color matched.

My C2 is color matched my turbo is painted satin black.

I am torn the rocker panels came out so perfectly that I am thinking I should leave them blue.

The down side is they will chip with track duty and won't look this good for long. Since the body style will be a 3.8 RS look I find every picture of the 3.8 to have the lower rocker painted black yet these cars look bad *** when they are color matched. If I paint it black it can easily be touched up with the occasional rattle can treatment. If left blue they will need to be professionally painted or just left to look like crap.

What do you guys think? I guess I could leave it blue for now and always paint it black later if it gets bad enough.

The other problem is if I keep them blue I will need to paint the front under trays and splitters to match. It will look funny if they don't match. Those of course will get peppered badly up front.

Rey Gunn

Have you thought of putting a clear bra on those parts? That way, you can keep it blue and never have a rock chip. It costs money, but will save you in the long run.

cobalt

I recently removed all the clear bra from my C2 which had 85% coverage. Roof and anything behind the rear windows were not covered everything else was. After 6 or 7 years of tracking the car the basic areas were perfect but the lower areas front lower bumper/lower rockers were destroyed. Hitting debris at 140 mph makes the clear bra look like crap and I found hundreds of spots where the impact was so hard that it bonded the paint to the inside of the clear bra. The lower front bumper clear bra was dotted with green spots from being hit, when I removed it. Looks like it saved everything but the lower front bumper and rocker panels which will need to be painted. I will be using the front mud flaps from a 94 turbo which help considerably more than the clear bra did.

The rest of the car will be covered since the upper areas on my C2 look like they have <10k miles on them the clear bra worked perfectly there.

The other problem with clear bra is it is 10 times harder to remove rubber marks and yellows. The Clear bra on my C2 was so yellow I didn't realize how good the amazon green paint looked like without the yellow tint. Also any decals that are applied cannot be removed without damaging the clear bra or leaving a permanent mark in the product. I also find that no matter how often you polish it the clear bra hazes and I am not crazy about having to clean it so often.

I will have my friend Nelson from clear image clear bra the primary areas which will look good for a while but clear bra under side of rockers I don't think will look good after only a few events.

I will consider it as an option though, I hear they have made some strides in the product these last few years.