-nick

Yes, you are right! I copied that list from Supertec. Must be a misprint? I haven't done these yet, but they're the same as the valve cover gaskets. I remember coating those lightly with motor oil and torquing the nuts down properly. Never had a leak from them. I imagine that the chain covers would be the same. I wonder if a light coat of Dow 55 wouldn't hurt, at least to keep them soft for years ahead.

Flea- the sprockets aren't as bad as they first look, but it would be pretty aggravating without the big cam holding tool - Sir tools P237. The oil bridge o-rings are easy, as are the metal gaskets on the chain tensioner covers. It's hard to justify not replacing those extra gaskets if you already have the covers off.

Also, torque the covers in a sequence. Starting with the middle top nut, then middle bottom nut, then working your way outwards. Same sequence as torquing a cylinder head.

Ricardo wrote up a fantastic how-to:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...t-o-rings.html

Flea18

Thanks Nick, and you're right, Ricardo's write up is fantastic. Still confused a bit...he's got this listed on page 4 of the thread:

Cam Chain Housings to Case: gaskets Loctite 574
Cam Chain Housings to Cam Towers: gasket Loctite 574
Cam Chain Housing Cover to Cam Chain Housing: Gasket Loctite574
Gaskets: Thin coat of Loctite 574

Does that mean put the Loctite 574 on the gasket, as opposed to Jason's comment?

I'm pretty much committed to going back into the timing chain housing to redo the cover gaskets, bridge o-rings, and tensioner gaskets. One thing I noticed was that with those thick o-rings around each bolt, there is a little play in the cover before everything is torqued down. Now I'm wondering if the cover is slightly misaligned.

machisono

We're in the process of a top end rebuild following installation of new Supertec cylinder head studs. On the Cam Chain Housings to Case we used Curil T. I will use Dow 111 for the chain housing gaskets and then torque to 4 ft. lbs using the sequence described above. I had not planned on using anything on the cover to the housing. When I removed I did not see remnants of old Loctite 574. Would it be cheap insurance to apply thin coat of 3Bond 1194 or 1211?
+1 on -nick's comments. We just completed the cam timing today using some of the great write ups on RL and it was fun. On the AC bracket I followed Vandit's writeup and it was an easy fix. Glad I did it!
joe

L23FPorsche

After recently performing this DIY, I came to realize that there is no reason to "completely" remove the cover. Remove the bolts securing the A/C bracket to give you some room and simply remove the old seal and replace it with a new one. When I did replace the gasket by removing the cover I double nutted two of the studs, removed them and the cover was able to be removed. In my case almost all of the studs came out with the nuts. I used loctite blue when replacing them so no problem next time. I used Curil-T on the faces and Molykote 55 on the o-rings and have zero leaks.

carlskisWP

Flea

Let us know if you get the leak on the chain covers fixed (I haven't done mine yet).

In Ricardo's thread referenced above someone posted that:

"only the left side chain cover gasket is available. The right side is no longer available. When you order there will only be one part number... One side of the gasket is flat and the other is dome shaped. This dome shape should make contact with the chain box. It will compress like a o ring when torqued. The left side gasket fits nicely in the groves on the cover with the dome portion of the gasket facing out. The right side does not. When you drop the gasket in the flat portion will be facing the chain box (dome shape side in the groves). I had a leak on the right side shortly after I installed my chain cover gaskets. I removed the right cover and reinstalled a new gasket. If you twist the gasket you can form it in the chain cover groves so the dome side is facing out towards the chain box."

Flea18

Thanks for the help gents. I'll be taking the covers off this weekend to find out why they're leaking and I'll post pics of anything odd I find. As far as the gasket covers go, Ricardo is correct and I ordered them from Pelican as such:

964-105-181-01-M260 $9.25 2 $18.50
Cam Housing Cover Gasket (Left or Right side), 911 Carrera 2/4 1989-
98; 911 Turbo 1993-97 - Brand: O.E.M.

However, my leak is worse on the left side!!

Flea18

I finally made time to reattack these leaks and so far have the lower valve covers off. Nothing jumps out right away except that the leaks appear to be coming from the fasteners holes, both on the valve covers and timing chain covers. You can see the drips hanging on the nuts and stud ends.

I also checked the valve covers for true with a straightedge and I can find no signs of warping. Unless someone has a better idea, I am going to clean them up again and try some silicone gasket sealer, then torque in sequence as described above.

Thanks,
Matt

J richard

It is not uncommon for the covers and chain housings to warp. If they aren't too bad they can be dressed, but don't be surprised if they need to be replaced outright.

Also check/confirm the rocker shafts are tight and haven't slipped in their bores, it will cause a similar looking leak at the valve covers....

Flea18

Thanks, I'll be sure to check that out.

Just took off the left timing chain cover and again, nothing really looks amiss. The gasket surface looks like it could use a better cleaning. Looks like I may also have a leak from the gasket between the chain case and engine block...but that will have to wait for another time.

r-mm

Hi All

I am bumping an old thread to ask if any experience with the Wrightwood Racing chain housing seal kits? They are about double "OEM" but from 911 motor reseal work I've dont I recall the consensus being that Wrightwood is 'the good stuff''

Wrightwood $126
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...11-20943006394

"OEM" $67
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/100912...iABEgKKqPD_BwE

-nick

I used the Wrightwood kit. Surfaces all cleaned, degreased, correct sealants applied where called for, etc. The only leaks I have after a complete top end + rings are around my chain covers. It started after about 10k miles. Nothing dripping, just wet & annoying. Hasn't gotten any worse and I have 20k miles on it now. I don't know if oem would have faired better, but there's one data point for you.

Edit- just looked at your links. I would be careful of "oem" branded seals and sets. Many are not as good quality as genuine Porsche. And some once were good, and now are not as suppliers and manufacturing change. Check out the pelican engine rebuild section. There are a few pros there who know what to use/avoid.

r-mm

Thanks for the response. Pelican is a good idea - I forgot how active their 911 Engine forum is and how useful it was when I did my 3.2