RicardoD

&!@$#%^%#!!!!

I finished a engine drop and reseal, tune-up, and critical maintenance on my 1991 C2 Tip and the engine and trans run great now. Amazing responsiveness and smooth power. Except I still have friggen oil leaks.

I have lower valve cover weeping which is an easy fix that I can do in my sleep. I just ordered Rennline lower billet aluminum valve cover gaskets.
http://www.rennline.com/Billet-Alumi...oductinfo/M12/

The big central puddle I believe is primarily cam housing and cam o-ring (more on that in the next post). In my reseal job I just did the cam housing cover, oil bridge, and cam chain tensioner gaskets. Careful checking, cleaning, driving, inspection cycles of my very clean engine leads me to believe those are not the sourcing of my leak.

RicardoD

Shame on me for not taking care of the following when I had the engine out of my car (photos of that area from a few months back when engine was out). I think most people should add this to their reseal list.

- camshaft housing to case gasket #6 (103-05 in PET)
- chamshaft gasket and o-ring #30, #1 (103-10 in PET) on both sides

Anybody have tips on how to do this. I am just starting my research. I think i can do this without another engine drop by removing the rear bumper (like BigMike). I modified my A/C bracket when I had the engine out so it comes off without removing the crankshaft pully. At least that is one smart thing I did.

Anyway, anybody remove their camshaft sprocket recently? Any tips?

Vandit

That's crazy man, sorry to hear/see that. As far as the camshaft seals leaking, wouldn't that leak into the chain housings which already have oil in them anyway?

My car gets wet like that too, even after replacing all those common seals (crossovers, housing cover (not case to housing), tensioners), maybe i'm also suffering from a case-to-housing gasket leak, but it doesn't translate to a drip/puddle like that.

RicardoD

In my head the camshaft to housing gasket and o-ring mean it will also leak on the outside of the chain housing that faces the engine which directly explains why I see oil there.

What is putting oil on the top (right behind distributor) has to be the gasket #6, the housing to case gasket I think. The vertical surfaces of the oil chain tensioner housing are totally dry.

Even with my super clean engine it is a total SOB trying to figure this out. My engine before was a Niagra falls of oil leaks. All that is gone now but that large leak puddle in the middle is just not something I can ignore for too much longer.

The car runs great and makes my C4 feel like crap (I think that is mainly the shot engine mounts on my C4).

I've done some searching already and this doesn't seem too common but it does come up in a few threads. The workshop manual and "Rebuilding 911 Enginess book" is helping me figure this all out. It looks straightforward but need to sleep on this for a while to build up the energy to dive back into the car again.

RicardoD

Answering my own questions here:

Porsche Workshop Manual section 15 of volume 1 deals with this.

I will need:

Special Porsche Tool 9191 (pictured below) to hold sprocket while removing & installing bolt
Loctite 574 (to apply on both sides of camshaft gasket)
Loctite 270
- and the gaskets and o-rings

Relevant rennlist post here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...riorating.html

Wayne's Rebuilding 911 engine book also covers a bit of this for the pre 1989 engines which are very similar. When I eventually get to this I will document for everyone. This really needs to be part of any comprehensive engine reseal effort I think.

ThomasC2

I borrowed that tool from at OPC this winter and did that very same job job. My o-rings behind the camhousings were done. You can do it with the engine in the car by just removing the engine carrier. You do have to re-align the camshafts though so for that part of the assembley I put my car on a trailer and brought it to the OPC. I could probably have done this to if taking my tim,e but I didn't want take a chance.

Thomas

BigMikeATL

Damn, just damn.

I was tempted to do those gaskets/o-rings when I did my reseal but there was not signs of oil leaking. I didn't have the tool and had already taken my project so far past where it originated.

The good news is that you can do the job with the engine in the car. The bad part is stripping all of those parts back off of the car. But it isn't that bad. I had the rear bumper off in less than an hour. Take your time and make sure that you get the engine timed correctly when putting everything back together.

Good luck!

YaHoo!

Bummer Ricardo!
After my reseal I also have a tiny leak on the left side. Not sure of the origin yet but am suspicious of a seal/O ring between the chain housing and the engine.
Good luck and if you decide to take it on I look forward to reading your DIY.

Mike

RicardoD

BigMike,

Bumper off in an hour is a lot easier than a total engine drop (which I can probably do in 4 to 6 hours now). Its amazing how much faster you get the second or third time around on a job. I can lower the engine a bit as well if needed. I just ordered the parts I need from Pelican and the P9191.

ThomasC2

I didn't remove the bumper when I did this. Just remove the Cat, cup pipe and the final muffler. Then the heat pipe. Then the rear tin cover which you can slip out downwards after removing the bolts. Now just remove the engine carrier and the A/C bracket and you have all the access you need. It may be easier to remove the rear tin and the carrier as "unit" because the angle of the two last bolts holding those two parts togheter are at bit difficult. I used a 1/4 size wrench with an extension.

Thomas

ja78911sc

Ricardo,

FWIW, only the left side chain cover gasket is available. The right side is no longer available. When you order there will only be one part number. When our cars were built Porsche had a part number for both sides.

One side of the gasket is flat and the other is dome shaped. This dome shape should make contact with the chain box. It will compress like a o ring when torqued.

The left side gasket fits nicely in the groves on the cover with the dome portion of the gasket facing out.

The right side does not. When you drop the gasket in the flat portion will be facing the chain box (dome shape side in the groves).

I had a leak on the right side shortly after I installed my chain cover gaskets. I removed the right cover and reinstalled a new gasket. If you twist the gasket you can form it in the chain cover groves so the dome side is facing out towards the chain box.

Currently dry as a bone.

Jim

PelicanParts.com

Hope this takes care of the issue Ricardo!

Mark/Pelican Parts

dutchcrunch

just curious. anyone sure you can remove cam housing without engine removal???????? to replace cam housing to case

RicardoD

I less than I week I will be able to tell you the answer because this is what I am attempting. I need to change the cam housing to case gasket as well.

dutchcrunch

man you would think that they would have made a better cam to case gasket out of the better green seal than the black stuff. these are money generating things know what i mean.... let me know how this goes. thanks