YaHoo!

I understand that when using anti-seize or other lubricants one must adjust the torque setting down by 25-45% (45 would make me nervous!) e.g. a dry torque spec of 65ft/lbs should be reduced to ~45ft/lbs (that's a 30% reduction) when using anti-seize.

The anti-seize Porsche specifies is Optimoly which is a paste and due to its thickness/viscosity there is no torque adjustment needed.

Optimoly isn't readily available and therefore I've used quality anti-seize products from other manufacturers in less critical areas.

Here are my two questions:

1) I assume the torque specs in the workshop and Adrian's manuals are the same as dry torque specs; is this assumption correct?

2) When using non-Optimoly anti-seize do you all reduce your torque setting and if so by what percentage?

Thanks.

JasonAndreas

Porsche has been specifying the same lube for every type 911 since the 70s. So every Porsche dealer in the world keeps it in stock (just order it from Sunset Imports). And a single tube of HT, TA and 3EP is more than enough to completely dismantle (down to the last bolt) and reassemble several 964 and 993s.

YaHoo!

Thanks Jason-

In my searches I found a post where you mentioned obtaining Optimoly at Sunset- based on that, earlier this morning I sent an email to them requesting a quote. I should have mentioned I know it is available for $50 tube from dealers but I'm unwilling to pay that unless that's the only option.

I'd still like to get an answer to my more general question - should we be reducing torque when using non optimoly products?

I use CRC's nickel anti-seize often and just looked up its specs- it says it has a torque coefficient of .17. Which I am guessing means to reduce dry torque specification by 17%.

I love this stuff...wrenching and learning from the Rennlist community on these cars is such a pleasure! Jason I've certainly picked up many nuggets from your posts, thanks!

dutchcrunch

I paid 21.38 dollars for it at sunset less than 2 months ago. I seen a lot of anti seize, but this stuff is very different in texture and feel, copper color. a tube does go a long way. make sure you get correct part number as it can be confusing . I have p/n 000 043 004 00 about the size of med tube of tooth paste. when critical torques are involved get the rite stuff, cause you know what can happen if its not correct. I got this for my cv bolts.

dutchcrunch

Hey Jason , i read a very early post from you distinguishing the difference of HT and NR otimoly and i can confirm that the NR- otimoly p/n 000 043 004 00 that i just recently got from sunset is copper colored anti seize, so i don't know whats goin on here. it had me confused big time. any input

ThomasC2

Isn't HT Optimoly just Porsche's version of copper paste? So any brand of copper paste will work according to a mechanic I know at a OPC here.

Thomas

dutchcrunch

from what i noticed, Porsche version seems more on the dry side with more copper and less lube if that makes sense. for 22 buck i'll save my brain cells maybe this is what affects the torque. i don't want my drive shafts coming loose, you know what i mean.

dutchcrunch

if one were bolting an exhaust together im sure it would not matter. but sometimes those engineers know what they are doing. Porsche parts are to fricken exspensive to play around with. cant mess with the test of time, that what it all boils down to. pressure and time. you feelin lucky. i m not

Jordan Pryce

Why would Porsche give dry torque specs to begin with? It would seem that if they have a recommended anti-seize that they would use it in assembly and torque specs.

I NEVER put fasteners in dry. Everything either gets synthetic grease, copper anti seize paste or locktite. Maybe it's my background in racing motorcycles and high end bicycles with many critical fasteners in soft aluminum or titanium. You end up with galling issues, or worse, with dissimilar metals galvanic corrosion. While you're at it, why not drill and safety wire fasteners in critical components. Every good mechanic should know how to properly wield a set of safety wire pliers.

kos11-12

I agree with Jordan, race motorcycle background too,
I use copper grease, red grease and torque the same , we lock wire a lot tho

Jordan Pryce

Kos, Is that a Manx you've got there? I did quite a bit of classic racing here in AHRMA with a Seeley Norton 750 and a Rickman G50 among others.

JasonAndreas

Optimol-HT (#000.043.004.00) is the copper grease
Optimol-TA (#000.043.020.00) is the silver colored grease used mostly on aluminum fasteners (suspension, etc)
Olista Longtime 3EP (#000.043.024.00) is the high temperature/pressure grease used on the clutch (gearbox) metal/metal sliding surfaces.
Optitemp PU35 (#000.043.110.01) is used on cv joints and the drive shaft flange seal on the gearbox.
Optimoly MP0 (#000-043-205-10) is used on the clutch (gearbox) plastic/metal sliding surfaces.
Optimol-NR (#000.043.005.000) is the cv joint grease (NLA - Superceded to 000.043.110.01)
Optitemp-LG2 (#000.043.203.37) is the low temperature plastic/metal grease used on the pedal assembly
Optitemp-LG2 (#000.043.204.21) Spray form of LG2 used on the door locks.
Klüberfluid 9 R 100 (#000-043-117-00) is the assembly paste used on the brake caliper pistons when replacing the piston, dust boot and pressure seal.


and I'm probably forgetting something...

YaHoo!

I just received this quote from Sunset (no affiliation):

The 000-043-004-00 (90 grams of NR-Optimoly) is $21.56 and the 000-043-205-10 (80 grams of grease) is $27.66 (plus shipping to get to you).

I also added Optimol-TA (#000.043.020.00) to the above list and it was about the same price.

According to Sunset Optimoly NR=Optimoly HT? I see different part #s in Jason's post above and suspect Sunset could be confused.

Vandit

I put Permatex copper anti-seize on stuff and torque to spec. I guess I should draft up a will now.

JasonAndreas

They are definitely 100% not the same. Optimoly HT is copper colored and NR (Olistamoly) is this black goopy stuff that sticks to everything and is impossible to remove. You would never use NR on your exhaust fasteners or your wheel studs... The names next to the part numbers in the list all link to the spec sheets.