Notices
964 Forum 1989-1994
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

The silly little question thread ...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-22-2017, 12:44 AM
  #1426  
tjb616
Rennlist Member
 
tjb616's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Philly
Posts: 1,541
Received 139 Likes on 106 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by LM964
Indeed, there needs to be sufficient enough stud length that accomodates passing through the inner wing itself. There is no individual part number for these studs as they are inherent to the bracket part 964 207 025 02. The 'spacer' part is to prevent overtightening and subsequent bracket cracking when the nut is pulled up inside of the wing (horrors of oil leaks at pressure!).

If the studs are damaged and not usable then it's not impossible to machine new ones - just need to be accurate with the spacer gap value.
Thank you very much for taking the time to type that out. Unfortunately it's not what I wanted to hear.

I bought the car in my signature out of a barn disassembled, motor on the foor, etc. Dropped the motor off at my builder the day I bought it, gave him all the sorted/labeled hardware. They SHOULD be there with him. But if for some reason they're not, I don't want to have to wait to a single extra day to drive the car while we source new ones.

I think I could make this with a stud, a tap, and some aluminum collars I have laying around. I'll let you guys know if Im successful.

EDIT: Wow, and the whole housing is surprisingly cheap on eBay. I figured a couple hundred. More like $80. Might buy one as a last resort for insurance.
Old 04-23-2017, 08:42 AM
  #1427  
cobalt
Rennlist Member
 
cobalt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 22,177
Received 1,937 Likes on 1,170 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by tjb616

EDIT: Wow, and the whole housing is surprisingly cheap on eBay. I figured a couple hundred. More like $80. Might buy one as a last resort for insurance.
that sounds like your best approach since they are supplied as a part of the housing.
Old 04-23-2017, 12:21 PM
  #1428  
LM964
Rennlist Member
 
LM964's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bucks, Herts, Beds Tri-Border, UK
Posts: 1,135
Received 84 Likes on 68 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by tjb616
EDIT: Wow, and the whole housing is surprisingly cheap on eBay. I figured a couple hundred. More like $80. Might buy one as a last resort for insurance.
Just need to make sure that the inlet seats for the pipe unions are not pitted and all threads are good. New pipe copper seals a must (don't use the old ones). I refurbished mine carefully following very small leaks around the housing - tightening up the pipe unions any further asks for trouble. Now dry as anything with no leaks with oil at the hottest temps. Worth taking the time...
Old 04-23-2017, 07:33 PM
  #1429  
tjb616
Rennlist Member
 
tjb616's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Philly
Posts: 1,541
Received 139 Likes on 106 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by LM964
Just need to make sure that the inlet seats for the pipe unions are not pitted and all threads are good. New pipe copper seals a must (don't use the old ones). I refurbished mine carefully following very small leaks around the housing - tightening up the pipe unions any further asks for trouble. Now dry as anything with no leaks with oil at the hottest temps. Worth taking the time...
What copper pipe seals are you referring to?
Old 04-24-2017, 03:42 AM
  #1430  
LM964
Rennlist Member
 
LM964's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bucks, Herts, Beds Tri-Border, UK
Posts: 1,135
Received 84 Likes on 68 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by tjb616
What copper pipe seals are you referring to?
Apologies if sounding confusing. If you have also removed the filter housing drain plug, then the copper seal ring for that (and any other drain plug accross the oil system). If you have also removed the pipe connecting unions from the filter housing there will be the copper seals/washers between them and the housing.

The main oil feed pipes should have that unpitted shiny (ball) seat. Making sure they're not corroded is a check too.

Cheers
Old 04-24-2017, 08:45 AM
  #1431  
Rocket Rob
IHI KING!
Rennlist Member

 
Rocket Rob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Nashua, New Hampshire, USA
Posts: 13,384
Received 222 Likes on 176 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by LM964
Apologies if sounding confusing. If you have also removed the filter housing drain plug, then the copper seal ring for that (and any other drain plug accross the oil system). If you have also removed the pipe connecting unions from the filter housing there will be the copper seals/washers between them and the housing.

The main oil feed pipes should have that unpitted shiny (ball) seat. Making sure they're not corroded is a check too.

Cheers
My cars have aluminum crush washers, not copper. Not sure that the different metal makes much difference.
Old 04-24-2017, 03:02 PM
  #1432  
LM964
Rennlist Member
 
LM964's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bucks, Herts, Beds Tri-Border, UK
Posts: 1,135
Received 84 Likes on 68 Posts
Default

Cheers Rob, Yes, I've seen both used, and from OPC too. Wouldn't like to say what any difference is (if any), unless it's sealing characteristics under high temperatures...
Old 04-24-2017, 10:26 PM
  #1433  
tjb616
Rennlist Member
 
tjb616's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Philly
Posts: 1,541
Received 139 Likes on 106 Posts
Default

Ah yes of course, I bought a dozen or so crush washers in each size when I started the project, but they were all aluminum. Bought new drain plugs too. Thanks!
Old 04-30-2017, 11:01 PM
  #1434  
tjb616
Rennlist Member
 
tjb616's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Philly
Posts: 1,541
Received 139 Likes on 106 Posts
Default

Here's a silly question, what does everyone use to replace the foam between the oil cooler and the fan?
Old 05-01-2017, 07:36 AM
  #1435  
LM964
Rennlist Member
 
LM964's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bucks, Herts, Beds Tri-Border, UK
Posts: 1,135
Received 84 Likes on 68 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by tjb616
Here's a silly question, what does everyone use to replace the foam between the oil cooler and the fan?
There's foam?! New one on me. Have had a couple of cooler out in the past - don't recall seeing any 'foam'. You mean some kind of shroud or other seal?
Old 05-01-2017, 08:25 AM
  #1436  
cobalt
Rennlist Member
 
cobalt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 22,177
Received 1,937 Likes on 1,170 Posts
Default

It is available from Porsche. Prices have doubled since a year ago though.
http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oe...he/96457533900
http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oe...he/96457533900

99% of the 964's out there are running without it.
Old 05-01-2017, 08:27 AM
  #1437  
Rocket Rob
IHI KING!
Rennlist Member

 
Rocket Rob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Nashua, New Hampshire, USA
Posts: 13,384
Received 222 Likes on 176 Posts
Default

I used foam rubber weather stripping to seal the gaps between the oil cooler and the fan housing.
Old 05-01-2017, 03:10 PM
  #1438  
Super90
Burning Brakes
 
Super90's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 765
Received 15 Likes on 15 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by cobalt
It is available from Porsche. Prices have doubled since a year ago though.
http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oe...he/96457533900
http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/oe...he/96457533900

99% of the 964's out there are running without it.
Anthony is right on all counts, as usual ! They are numbers 9 and 10 in that link.

I ordered foam from Porsche, it was "New" Old Stock, and was disintegrating in the packaging. It isn't that great.

I plan to use this, which is far superior. I have the Porsche bits as a pattern, but this is far more substantial in terms of dealing with heat and weather. It's even grey, like the factory foam.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#8647K29

I'll pull the bumper and replace it in the next few months. : )
Old 05-01-2017, 04:33 PM
  #1439  
cobalt
Rennlist Member
 
cobalt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 22,177
Received 1,937 Likes on 1,170 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Super90
Anthony is right on all counts, as usual ! They are numbers 9 and 10 in that link.

I ordered foam from Porsche, it was "New" Old Stock, and was disintegrating in the packaging. It isn't that great.

I plan to use this, which is far superior. I have the Porsche bits as a pattern, but this is far more substantial in terms of dealing with heat and weather. It's even grey, like the factory foam.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#8647K29

I'll pull the bumper and replace it in the next few months. : )
I purchased a bunch of sets. I don't think I paid more than $15 for both at the time. The ones I received were very nice and quite similar to the sound pad used in the engine bay. I would have returned them if they were crumbling again. I believe I still have a new set. The end that meets the bumper has a two sided taper to it.

Now i do recall that the one piece for the side by the oil cooler lines did come looking a bit worse than the others.
Attached Images  
Old 05-01-2017, 05:56 PM
  #1440  
tjb616
Rennlist Member
 
tjb616's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Philly
Posts: 1,541
Received 139 Likes on 106 Posts
Default

That's actually not what I was referring to. On the perimeter of the fan housing surface that mates to the perimeter of the oil cooler, there was a thin maybe 5mm x 5mm strip of foam that sits between the surfaces to create a seal.

It can be seen in this picture, although it's deteriorating here as well.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/OHkAAOSwaB5XvNFx/$_1.JPG?set_id=8800005007


Quick Reply: The silly little question thread ...



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 09:33 PM.