DIY fender/cowl scuttle panel seal replacement
#31
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
This is the race jack I recommend. I also use an adaptor that fits into the jacking point. Great security and it saves the risk of popping the sill because of trapping it under the jack.
#34
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
You're welcome. It is a low risk refurb as the parts are inexpensive and the function is not critical. You can trim them as much as you like to make them fit. As long as they fit flush it's all good.
#36
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Some day you Brits will be travelling down under to snaffle our underpriced older salt free cars, just like we're doing on your newer cars at the moment. Hope it wasn't serious rot.
#39
Which is better (on my concourse, low mileage '91 Turbo)?? To leave the virgin tack weld in place, or replace my poor looking seals by grinding the weld out so that I can separate the two panels and replace the seal?
My 1991 Turbo is tack welded (just aft of the furthest back allen bolt in the scuttle), and the paint inside the scuttle cavity is actually quite good. I would HATE to grind out the tack weld, chip up the paint in there with my allen key wrench, and even risk chipping my exterior paint,.... all so that I can replace the seals.
I am wondering if there would be ANY possible chance of success, if I were to remove the old, then gradually cut more & more of the bottom edge of the new seal, until I can get it pushed down in the seam,... and then use a sealant glue (maybe my weather stripping glue) to secure it in place.
It all seems like taking a big chance that it won't work, or look correct when finished.
It is either try,... or justify in my mind that the original seals & tack weld prove that the car still has original paint, and has never been messed with.
Thoughts?
=Steve
__________________
1991 964 911 Turbo
1968 RS/SS 396 Muncie Camaro
1969 SS 396 Camaro
My 1991 Turbo is tack welded (just aft of the furthest back allen bolt in the scuttle), and the paint inside the scuttle cavity is actually quite good. I would HATE to grind out the tack weld, chip up the paint in there with my allen key wrench, and even risk chipping my exterior paint,.... all so that I can replace the seals.
I am wondering if there would be ANY possible chance of success, if I were to remove the old, then gradually cut more & more of the bottom edge of the new seal, until I can get it pushed down in the seam,... and then use a sealant glue (maybe my weather stripping glue) to secure it in place.
It all seems like taking a big chance that it won't work, or look correct when finished.
It is either try,... or justify in my mind that the original seals & tack weld prove that the car still has original paint, and has never been messed with.
Thoughts?
=Steve
__________________
1991 964 911 Turbo
1968 RS/SS 396 Muncie Camaro
1969 SS 396 Camaro
Last edited by bwe11m; 08-26-2014 at 06:04 PM.
#41
Three Wheelin'
Good write up. I have been procrastinating mine for months. My car didn't have the old ones in to use as temples since removed for re-spray. Your picture told me what to trim and the fact they didn't want to go in was a good clue. I used what I saw Armorall hanging to my left and sprayed that on them for lube. Dish soap would work. The rubber hammer was a must! I would say if old ones are too beat up to trim like the picture on the bottom area only and snip off the remaining centimeter after install with razor. Once they are pushed in they will rip trying to pull out if not real carful. Trim bottom areas first!
#42
Great write up john, I found this thread on search as one of my seals popped up on my trip. On d911 they list 4.3mm and 6.5mm. How do you know which one you need? And also are they both the same part for left and right? Thanks
#44
#45
Hey all,
Not sure if anyone is still reading this thread but I'll try.So I am starting the job to replace the rubbers and loosened the2 bolts but as mentioned I can see 2 welds near the bolt.
It seems the only way to separate the wing from the body would be to cut that weld which seems a bit scary.
So any suggestions regarding cutting the weld?
If I am successful say with a Dremel would I need to weld it again?
Any help would be very appreciated.
Alex
Not sure if anyone is still reading this thread but I'll try.So I am starting the job to replace the rubbers and loosened the2 bolts but as mentioned I can see 2 welds near the bolt.
It seems the only way to separate the wing from the body would be to cut that weld which seems a bit scary.
So any suggestions regarding cutting the weld?
If I am successful say with a Dremel would I need to weld it again?
Any help would be very appreciated.
Alex