Roly Baldwin

A couple of days ago, I'd spent all day under the car. Changed the bottom set of plugs (which is pretty straightforward once the exhaust/cat are off) but once everything was back together I had rough running and periodic backfire. Tonight I took everything apart again, checked the connections, checked the lead resistances and guess what? Problem cured itself. I suspect one of the leads wasn't pushed home firmly.

Thought I may as well change the top set whilst I was at it and they all came out and new ones went in no problem. The infamous one by the power steering pump (no 6, back right) wasn't a problem at all. Anyway, the car now runs fine on either distributor and very smoothly on both.

Only irritation is I left the heat shields off - I'm doing the valve clearances tomorrow - so I couldn't take it for a test drive, only as far as the garage. I also changed the diff/transmission oils and the gearchange is noticeably smoother now.

Time for a beer.

robmug

Roly - you sounded pretty upset a few days ago when you'd finished the first time. Looks like the interim period has been helpful!

How bad is the job? What level of ability is required?

Roly Baldwin

No, it was awful! I just wanted to get out there and fix it but it was raining pretty much non-stop.

Now I know what to do, I could do the whole thing in a few hours. Trickiest part was removing the many horrible little captive nut fixings. These hold the engine cover (and cat heat shields) on but once they rust, the bolt just turns and you have to get pliers/spanner/grips/angle grinder on them. By the way Porsche charge about £8 EACH for these fixings and there are dozens under there.

Also, the four cat bolts were solid heat-treated rust. Angle grinder & hacksaw time again. Very nasty.

But now the hard stuff is done, doing the plugs is a piece of cake. It took three hours to refit the bottom set, fit new top plugs, check the resistances on the bottom wires and put (almost) everything back on. If you've got any experience of servicing it shouldn't be very hard. Having the right tools helps too. Removing and refitting the plugs may or may not be tricky depending on whether you have the toolkit plug spanner. I can't find mine - it's around somewhere. Not all socket sets have the right length extension bar and universal joint. I had to use various bits from two sets on the top plugs because there's so little space.

Life isn't made easier by my previous mechanic who didn't renew fixings and nuts & bolts. Everything you need for replacing the bottom plugs (i.e. cat bolts/nuts, exhaust bolts, cam cover nuts) comes with the valve adjustment kit so I'm very glad I had that to hand.

Are you interested in getting your hands dirty? (Very dirty )

robmug

I could be tempted...I'm lucky in having a large garage - space to work all around the car even with my M3 in.

I struggle working under cars...is there an easy way of getting these cars off the ground sufficiently high to ease the work? (I saw this which is nice, but too pricey for me! http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product...&r=2051&g=107. I used to have a pair of ramps which I could drive my Mini Cooper up, but I think the bumper overhangs on the 964 would rule this out.

johnfm

Rob

saw a similar lift on ebay in the uk for £300!! It runs of 'weird' electricity though, either 110v or 240v three phase.

johnfm

Rob

by the way, when I did my ATF oil pipes, I got the back of the car up on a trolley jack, the other side ona bottle jack & then put stands under the car. Overall, had the rear about a foot or so int e air.

If I had my time again, I would have bought a high lift trolley jack from Machinemart - they are less than £100 and can lft the car about 450mm - and use it to lift hte car by the engine (as mentioned in many old posts).

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=020110775

or for 800mm of lift (though the nose will probably hit the ground!!):

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=020110311

robmug

John - with the search not working, where on the engine do you use as a jacking point? and does this necessitate the removal of the undertray (see Roly's original post as this seemed to be tricky!)

I thought the world was undecided on the engine jacking point?

LOVE those jacks!

Roly Baldwin

Rob,

I also tried to use ramps but you're right about the overhang. I make do with two small trolley jacks and four jackstands (I'm paranoid like that).

I use the jacking points ahead of the rear wheels instead of the engine to get the car up and then partially distribute the weight onto the four jacks on various solid-looking suspension points.

This provides plenty enough access to remove the engine cover. From then on you don't need to get right under the car as the plugs/valves are accessible from the sides once the wheels are off.

If you did want to jack the car on the engine you would need to remove the cover first anyway and that would be tricky even on cars with standard ride height...

johnfm

Roly

which plugs were in your kit - the BERU or the Bosch?? What gap did you set (if you needed to).

Roly Baldwin

Beru - they're pre-gapped (3 terminals, don't you know)

johnfm

Yes, but were the gaps as per expected? BTW, did you do the plugs & valves at home using jacks & stands? Did you do an oil change (ie full service)?

Roly Baldwin

John,

As I understand it (and perhaps I'm wrong), the plugs with multiple electrodes are set to a particular gap and should not be adjusted. I think you'd have problems doing that anyway...

Yes - I did it at home with 2 trolley jacks and 4 axle stands.

I didn't do an oil change at a the time (it didn't need it) - why do you ask?

johnfm

Doing the 12k service this week or next. Oil change seems to be the only awkward bit (spillage, what to do with 10 litres of old mobil 1 etc) - oh and the valve adjustment.....

Roly Baldwin

Tips on oil removal:

Get an old cardboard box, flatten it out and lay it underneath the drain plug. It is very difficult to prevent the oil overflowing your drain can unless you have one of those pro ones with a big funnel.

Be just as careful removing oil from the drain point ahead of the right rear wheel. It can really gush out from there so be ready. Don't ask me how I know this is important.

Once the oil is in your drain can (or cans) and you've filled up the engine with lovely fresh M1, transfer the old oil into your empty M1 cans and take them to the dump where you should find an oil recycling bin.

Have fun with the valve adjustment and remember to use lots of penetrating oil on any rusty bolts.

johnfm

I am toughening up the skin on my knuckles in preparation!!