Alex Sol

okay, transmission installed correctly, engine tin installed (uppers) and spark plugs snugged in nicely.

i have the nology wires with the individual grounds so they are a pain to ground

dropped the motor onto a bike jack and rubber tire - i'm sure this is factory procedures....

lifted the car on four jack stands

not too tall upfront and max height on cheapie jack stands in the rear

rolled the motor and trans under neath

fairly quickly attached the two engine holder nuts and the six trans bolts

crushed my warm air vents so had to lower and remove then raise and re attach

connected the shifter, throttle cable, knock sensors and various sensors / electrical

wondering how one or two hoses work on the car

connected oil pipes and have one more to attach

connected the hydraulic hose to the slave cylinder but realize it has to be done afterwards because my hose has to be screwed on both ends at the same time??? definitely a job for a four handed individual...

need to:

connect one more oil return hose, fill up all fluids, battery charged and connect, and then ..........

but first. maybe connect the headers

Alex Sol

trouble... no spark no fuel....

Alex Sol

got fuel and spark

found a 7.5amp fuse for dme in front

still not start

1/2 the wires have no continuity - nology wires mainly at the distributor cap end - maybe from yanking them off too many times

got six good wires and tested for spark - all pretty good

cranked but no start, not even a sputter

double checked the rotors in correct position and z1 mark on pulley on tdc cylinder #1

compression test way off on 3 cylinders - max 140 psi - ran out of time to check others.

ordered new distributor cap, rotors and wires (plugs are brand new)

i did manage to blow off the entire top of the intake where the large elbow that holds the air flow meter connects.

boom!! like a shot gun. think there was unburnt fuel from cranking and cranking....

Alex Sol

and oil leaking in two spots.... one under middle front of the engine and one 36mm nut near the thermostat in front of right rear wheel well

swesna

good luck.

Alex Sol

thanks working on it. the front one seems to be simple 36 mm nut and the middle it looks like i missed a bolt that threads in - front corner lowest point on the car.... hope that is all for leaks...

purchased the leakdown test set and will try tonight.

good luck alright!!!

Alex Sol

leakdown numbers:

started with 105-109 psi - my gauge a little wacky

all stopped at 95-96 psi

keep in mind... motor has never run

so... 10-13% leakdown

cylinder:
1 106-94 - 12%
2 107-96 10%
3 109-96 12%
4 109-95 13%
5 107- 96 10%
6 106-96 9.5%

with good steady hissing coming from exhaust port and intake which would suggest: intake/exhaust valves are not seated properly

NineMeister

... or bent?

VR6-er

This link says 5-8% is the norm.

http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/Co...akdowntest.htm

Alex Sol

bent valves are a possibility

on last rebuild which was not a good experience and only 75,000 kms ago, the mechanic left out woodruff key on one side and smashed three rockers n three valves... pulled, replaced and ran pretty good though never took leakdown compression numbers...

the engine was not properly rebuilt...

heads were just rebuilt though so it's not likely the machine shop would have missed out on this detail... bent valves and / or improper seal

Alex Sol

engine runs... and leaks.

dropped the engine, split the transmission, and did the

complete teardown in about six hours,

cleaned up using a 3m wheel on end of drill to scrub off the loctite 574. i'll include some pics of the seal or lack thereof

new shipment came Tuesday afternoon, called the gang over Tuesday and re seal of case yesterday

using.... three bond 1184

expecting... better results

really couldn't totally isolate the cause of the leak though... other than improper prep of crank case halves,

this third round i put a bead of threebond around all the crank case thru bolt holes and on the inside on the seam where the halves meet. the threebond 1184 gray squeezed all the way out to the exterior side o the case so i hope we got it done right this time...

Alex Sol

also removed some of the thru bolts on the crank case half to really clean the motor with the 3m wheel.

swesna

have not tried to remove the trans yet...but may be moving soon and need to get them separated to transport easier.

pimp4cheddar

Just curious...what's the cost on an engine rebuild like this?

I toy with the idea of buying a 964 all the time and always change my mind when I think of the cost of ownership...

Alex Sol

pimp... the local guys here charge $10-14,000 for complete rebuilds.

i'm doing my self for:

$1800 in parts - seals, gaskets, nuts, bolts, head studs (250-1000 bucks), connecting rod bolts (arps cost about $250), i can send my parts list from EBS racing if you like....

$800 for new piston / cylinders

$150-200 for specialty tools

$300 for fuel injector flow, clean, rebuild

$1000 to do the heads

$1000 to clean parts and prep the case

$150 to magnaflux the crank and micro polish....

$200 for fresh fluids, trans, engine, power steering, filters, belts, etc...

so do it your self for around... $5-6000 depending on what you count and don't count...

or take the motor to motor meister in California for $6,000 - not sure what's included / excluded and you usually find... surprises along the way...

hope that helps..

964s that run properly are a dream to drive... maintenance. . budget $1-3k/ year depending on miles and previous history...