964 Touch up paint question: Guards Red
#16
IHI KING!
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http://www.automotion.com/genuine-po...uards-red.html
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Note: I don't use the paint brush in the bottle. I find that its too large. I have a fine point artist's brush that works well for small stone chips. I have a Dr Color Chip kit but haven't had a chance to try it.
Last edited by Rocket Rob; 07-31-2013 at 04:34 PM.
#17
Rennlist Member
Just get your paint code and check out www.paintscratch.com. I've had very good luck with their touchup paint and a small artist's brush.
#20
Nordschleife Master
#21
Nordschleife Master
I've done hundreds of stone chip touch ups in the past on my guards red '85 and '93 cars using factory touch up paint, one of these unigrit stones (whetted), and polished out with random orbit polishing.
I'd only recommend this technique for the single stage/non clear-coated colors. (You know - those beautiful M&M colors!)
With a little practice your technique improves quite quickly. Indistinguishable from surrounding good paint.
Wet paint is applied with a toothpick end, one teeny droplet at a time till you've built up a little hemisphere out to the surrounding good paint. Usually I'll hit about one or two dozen stone chips in (an hour) setting. You're left with a bunch of little tiny bumps after 24 hrs drying. I've Never used the applicator brush. It's too much of a broad ax where a foil is needed.
Gently wet stone those bumps down till the shiny ring around the bump turns 'foggy', and finish with a random orbit polish (or hand polish instead).
Worked every time for me. Build experience on the flat surfaces (hood) before attempting compound curved surfaces. You'll be surprised how good you become.
But I became tired of these never ending road pits, so I plastic filmed the entire front end after I finished up my '93's hood 6 years ago. Haven't done one of these touch ups in quite a while.
I'd only recommend this technique for the single stage/non clear-coated colors. (You know - those beautiful M&M colors!)
With a little practice your technique improves quite quickly. Indistinguishable from surrounding good paint.
Wet paint is applied with a toothpick end, one teeny droplet at a time till you've built up a little hemisphere out to the surrounding good paint. Usually I'll hit about one or two dozen stone chips in (an hour) setting. You're left with a bunch of little tiny bumps after 24 hrs drying. I've Never used the applicator brush. It's too much of a broad ax where a foil is needed.
Gently wet stone those bumps down till the shiny ring around the bump turns 'foggy', and finish with a random orbit polish (or hand polish instead).
Worked every time for me. Build experience on the flat surfaces (hood) before attempting compound curved surfaces. You'll be surprised how good you become.
But I became tired of these never ending road pits, so I plastic filmed the entire front end after I finished up my '93's hood 6 years ago. Haven't done one of these touch ups in quite a while.
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I was just recommended this by a guy I trust with car detailing... Ordered a kit. Ill let you all know how it goes...
#25
Burning Brakes
#26
#27
Burning Brakes
I was expecting it to be $20 and wouldn't have bought it if it was much more than that. I was shocked at the $12 price.