Help Removing Brake Proportioning Valve
#1
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Help Removing Brake Proportioning Valve
Is there a write up anywhere on how to remove the brake bias valve? Have found a lot of info on the valve, especially from Garrett. Plan is to take it out, gut it and replace.
Any tips on removal without making a mess with brake fluid? Thanks in advance for your help.
Any tips on removal without making a mess with brake fluid? Thanks in advance for your help.
#2
IHI KING!
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Its been a few years since I replaced mine but its not hard. Be sure to use flare nut wrenches so you don't round the fittings. And you will have to bleed the system afterward. I don't remember anything tricky or difficult. I was upgrading mine to the turbo version (60 bar).
#4
The valve is next to the ABS pump in the front truck. Fairly straight forward and easy to access. I helped a friend remove his front TT brakes. His car had the valve removed (common mod with turbo brakes). The PO had a line made vs. gutting the inside of the valve.
We installed a new OE valve because he went back to the standard C2 front brakes.
#5
Nordschleife Master
Put lots of paper towels under there to catch the brake fluid, and just have a large amount on hand to soak it up and keep it off the paint.
The line coming into the top is easy to remove. The one from the bottom wasn't, so instead I undid it from the other side of the elbow at the bottom. The challenge is being able to get the right amount of leverage to break the fittings loose.
The bottom line got a bit out of shape in the process, so upon first reinstall, the fitting was a bit wet, but I loosened an really retightened it and it stayed dry. Eventually, I should probably just replace that piece of hardline since it's not an expensive piece.
When you're gutting the valve, make sure you gut it entirely. All the pieces don't just fall out. You need a 19 and 22 wrench to open up the valve.
11mm flare nut wrench for the fittings.
I used a Channel lock wrench to hold the lower elbow while I loosened/tightening the lower fitting. Use the 22mm to hold the valve while loosening the upper fitting.
The line coming into the top is easy to remove. The one from the bottom wasn't, so instead I undid it from the other side of the elbow at the bottom. The challenge is being able to get the right amount of leverage to break the fittings loose.
The bottom line got a bit out of shape in the process, so upon first reinstall, the fitting was a bit wet, but I loosened an really retightened it and it stayed dry. Eventually, I should probably just replace that piece of hardline since it's not an expensive piece.
When you're gutting the valve, make sure you gut it entirely. All the pieces don't just fall out. You need a 19 and 22 wrench to open up the valve.
11mm flare nut wrench for the fittings.
I used a Channel lock wrench to hold the lower elbow while I loosened/tightening the lower fitting. Use the 22mm to hold the valve while loosening the upper fitting.
#7
Nordschleife Master