Engine insulation removal & replacement
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Bay Area, CA
Engine insulation removal & replacement
Step 1) drop engine Hahahaha!
I have my engine out for basically cleaning and repairing & resealing everything but not doing a valve job or splitting the crankcase. Car only has 72k miles. I finished on the engine and now focusing on the engine bay.
I ripped out the old insulation and what is left is sticky crap in several areas. I used Goof Off in a spray can and a plastic scraper. Buy 2 or 3 scrapers. They are $1.00 at Home Depot. I don't know if any of these adhesive removers don't attack the paint I noticed a thinning of the paint in some areas. It doesn't eat paint but you end of rubbing an scrapping so much some does come off.
I will update the thread when I get my new insulation put back in. I just ordered a new factory one. There are 11 of those plastic nuts to hold up the insulation and then I will use 3M trim adhesive to hold up the parts near the top of the engine.
I have my engine out for basically cleaning and repairing & resealing everything but not doing a valve job or splitting the crankcase. Car only has 72k miles. I finished on the engine and now focusing on the engine bay.
I ripped out the old insulation and what is left is sticky crap in several areas. I used Goof Off in a spray can and a plastic scraper. Buy 2 or 3 scrapers. They are $1.00 at Home Depot. I don't know if any of these adhesive removers don't attack the paint I noticed a thinning of the paint in some areas. It doesn't eat paint but you end of rubbing an scrapping so much some does come off.
I will update the thread when I get my new insulation put back in. I just ordered a new factory one. There are 11 of those plastic nuts to hold up the insulation and then I will use 3M trim adhesive to hold up the parts near the top of the engine.
Last edited by RicardoD; Apr 29, 2013 at 08:35 PM. Reason: add images
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Bay Area, CA
And here is the after. I went with the original Porsche engine insulation pad. It has the cutouts in the necessary areas. You have to remove the decklid shocks and a couple of other items holding up hoses. I used a 3M spray adhesive only near the top (that is the last step once everything is fitted).
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Bay Area, CA
I have been working on my C2 for about a year now. I am married with two kids and my family comes first on most weekends. Recently after 4 months of not working on the car I dove in again pretty hard. My wife understands I need to get the C2 running again as I want it to be my daily driver.
The engine insulation project took a couple of hours to clean out the insulation gunk and then another hour put the new one back in. I also cleaned out the engine compartment area as best I could. Not to concours quality but a wipedown of all surfaces.
The engine insulation project took a couple of hours to clean out the insulation gunk and then another hour put the new one back in. I also cleaned out the engine compartment area as best I could. Not to concours quality but a wipedown of all surfaces.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: NC
Looks really good Ricardo.
To keep is looking good, you should think about installing an aluminum strip like Jimq and Laker have done. I'm sure it helps keep the edge on the pad looking new longer.
Looking forward to seeing more progress on your car.
Laker's install
To keep is looking good, you should think about installing an aluminum strip like Jimq and Laker have done. I'm sure it helps keep the edge on the pad looking new longer.
Looking forward to seeing more progress on your car.
Laker's install
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Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Bay Area, CA
I can't imagine doing this with the engine in the car. There are some harness and AC line brackets and holders you have to remove to do a clean install. You can rip it out with the engine still in but putting a new one in seems very tough.
