BigMikeATL

I'm going to remove my exhaust manifolds would like to do it without breaking any of the exhaust studs. Besides soaking with PB Blaster, does anyone have any tips on an easy method? The last thing that I want is to snap an exhaust stud flush with the head and end up pulling the engine/head.

I was a little surprised there weren't many search results for this.

Rocket Rob

I've been lucky the two times I've had to remove the exhaust. Soaking with penetrating oil definitely helps. If you have a nut that won't move, I would next try heat. A MAPP torch can do wonders at loosening things. Also, use the right tool like a 6 point socket which is less likely to round a nut than a 12 point.

r15suk

I just had my LHS one changed and the guy who did it said that each nut was heated up to Cherry red with a blow torch and then undone. In my case none snapped off. No soaking with PB Blaster or any easing oil was done.

HTH

Cheers
Simon

FeralComprehension

Check the PParts site, mebbe the engine rebuilding forum- there was a thread recently on this (coulda been the 911 forum as well...)

IIRC, one well-regarded technician recommended heating the nuts red hot with oxy/acetylene and then spinning them off.

BigMikeATL

Thanks, sounds like heat is the answer. The hottest torch I have is MAP so we'll see what happens with that.

Rocket Rob

One other thought, when you are applying pressure to break the nut loose, don't jerk the wrench. Apply steady, increasing pressure. Jerking it increases your chances of breaking something.

YaHoo!

Hey Mike-
I've been enjoying/learning from your "Drip, Drip" thread, thanks for posting.

I just removed my heat exchanger successfully (no broken studs) two weeks ago. I soaked the nuts and studs in PB Blaster the night before and with a little steady force most came out. The ones that didn't made me nervous- know when to say when. With the resistors I tapped the socket and the extension with a hammer and reapplied PB and came back in an hour (hard to wait but a much shorter delay than a broken stud). Plan B was heat but I didn't end up needing to go that route.

Half of the nuts came off leaving the studs and the remainder were removed as the entire stud & nut combo. The later was my preference cause now I have to remove the studs (with vice grips?!) to replace them.

I'll share my insights on reassembly.

BigMikeATL

Thanks for the great suggestions.

I will soak the nuts with PB Blaster the next two days. For the ones that are resistant, I will heat and then spray them with the PBB. The heat will actually draw the PBB up into the threads.

I also saw how to make the right sized wrench in another thread at the place down the street.

I'll report my progress on Sunday.

YaHoo!

"I"ll share my insights/research on reassembly." Something froze on the website and wouldn't let me continue this on the last post (spray PB on moderator or server. ).

When inserting the studs back into the engine they need room to expand and contract. Tightening them all the way presumably bottoms them out and does not permit expansion. Chris Walrod recommended using Loctite 170 or 171 on the engine side of the stud and putting the stud in just beyond hand tight. I plan to measure the amount of stud hanging out of my engine right now and using that spec for the new ones. Loctite 170 &171 have been replaced with Loctite #263 - it's high resistance and heat and meant for engine studs. I plan to apply it to the stud, screw it in and let it dry before putting the manifold and the nut back on - that way when you are tightening the nut you also are not tightening the stud. No need to say this to you but definitely apply anti-seize grease

FeralComprehension

Here's the thread of interest. See page 2, post 24.

YaHoo!

Locked up again... Ok I'm going to spray my iPad with PB!

As I started to type above...use copper anti-seize on the nuts. Some folks replace the old steel nuts with copper ones but I refrained due to the softness of copper- probably works fine but I just will use copper grease.

Good luck!

Mike

BigMikeATL

11 of 12 came off like butter. Still working on the last barrel nut.

I soaked the nuts for 2 days with PBB. The first 11 came off without any problem. I saved the barrel nuts for last. The first 3 came off without issues. The last one was very shallow. I tried being very careful but ended up stripping the center of it (left side, most rear). Not sure how I'm going to proceed. I can't get a dremmel in there to split it. I hit it a few times with chisel hoping to spin it but no luck.

I split the exhaust at the middle so I could get the right side off and replace the power steering belt, o-ring, and seal. I'll have at it again tomorrow and see what brilliance strikes me over a few vodkas tonight.

YaHoo!

Good luck.
I removed all the studs except one stubborn one. The stud broke with 1/4" still extruding out of the engine. Tried an extractor (the kind that goes on the outside if the stud) after soaking in Kroil and heating with a MAPP torch (couldn't get it cherry red) and no luck.
I have a friend with a TIG welder that I'll get to weld a nut on to it and hope that works.

Hope the cocktails helped you find a way Mike!

BigMikeATL

I got the little ***** off this morning. Went to Lowes and got a longer 1/8" drill bit and drilled a couple of holes in it. Then I used a chisel and a punch to turn it. Once it went a 1/4 turn, I was able to use the allen to get it out.

I felt like Tom Hanks in Cast Away and almost stood up in my garage and march in a circle and said "I, HAVE MADE FIRE".

I have all new studs and nuts ordered.

Now to make some progress even though I feel like a heathen working on the car on Easter Sunday

PChar

Good job Mike. This is my next project as well, and I am collecting tips and advise. I fear the worst,...