clutch pedal noise...
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
clutch pedal noise...
I can hear old door hinge noise Everytime I press and depress the clutch pedal, very obvious when I push it to the bottom and try to release a little and push it in again. tried I spray wd40 around the gap but no help.
any suggestion to do it myself ..?
any suggestion to do it myself ..?
#2
Burning Brakes
What model year's your car. Earlier 964s had a pedal assembly with plastic bushes on the pedal shafts, and they can crack/wear (later ones have a metal bush that you just grease up).
If yours is an early one, it could be as simple as needing new bushes.
If yours is an early one, it could be as simple as needing new bushes.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
that might be the case! my 964 is a 1990 c2 ..how easy would it be? any instruction in removing the cover of the pedal so i can investigate
#4
Burning Brakes
Getting that board out, so that you can have a poke around is pretty easy.
There are 2 phillips head screws along the bottom. Then you have to undo the pushrod from the back of the accelerator. Before you start undoing stuff, get a ruler and measure how far off the back board the accelerator pedal is (when you screw it all back together, you want to get this just-so). Then you need 11mm and 8mm spanners (I think...) to loosen the pushrod and unscrew the pedal from it.
Then the board just lifts up (it just hooks in at the top), and it will take a bit of wiggling to get it past the brake and clutch pedal rubbers, but it'll come off.
I don't suggest you take out the pedal cluster at this stage, but there should be enough room for you to wiggle the pedal, and see if there is a lot of play at its base, where the shaft goes into the assembly.
There are 2 phillips head screws along the bottom. Then you have to undo the pushrod from the back of the accelerator. Before you start undoing stuff, get a ruler and measure how far off the back board the accelerator pedal is (when you screw it all back together, you want to get this just-so). Then you need 11mm and 8mm spanners (I think...) to loosen the pushrod and unscrew the pedal from it.
Then the board just lifts up (it just hooks in at the top), and it will take a bit of wiggling to get it past the brake and clutch pedal rubbers, but it'll come off.
I don't suggest you take out the pedal cluster at this stage, but there should be enough room for you to wiggle the pedal, and see if there is a lot of play at its base, where the shaft goes into the assembly.
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
Getting that board out, so that you can have a poke around is pretty easy.
There are 2 phillips head screws along the bottom. Then you have to undo the pushrod from the back of the accelerator. Before you start undoing stuff, get a ruler and measure how far off the back board the accelerator pedal is (when you screw it all back together, you want to get this just-so). Then you need 11mm and 8mm spanners (I think...) to loosen the pushrod and unscrew the pedal from it.
Then the board just lifts up (it just hooks in at the top), and it will take a bit of wiggling to get it past the brake and clutch pedal rubbers, but it'll come off.
I don't suggest you take out the pedal cluster at this stage, but there should be enough room for you to wiggle the pedal, and see if there is a lot of play at its base, where the shaft goes into the assembly.
There are 2 phillips head screws along the bottom. Then you have to undo the pushrod from the back of the accelerator. Before you start undoing stuff, get a ruler and measure how far off the back board the accelerator pedal is (when you screw it all back together, you want to get this just-so). Then you need 11mm and 8mm spanners (I think...) to loosen the pushrod and unscrew the pedal from it.
Then the board just lifts up (it just hooks in at the top), and it will take a bit of wiggling to get it past the brake and clutch pedal rubbers, but it'll come off.
I don't suggest you take out the pedal cluster at this stage, but there should be enough room for you to wiggle the pedal, and see if there is a lot of play at its base, where the shaft goes into the assembly.
#6
Burning Brakes
Well...no
Replacing the bushings will mean the pedal cluster has to come all the way out, like the pic above, which involves unbolting the master cylinder in situ (which is a little fiddly), and unhooking the brake pedal
And then in order to get the pedal shaft out, you have to remove this rollpin that holds the assembly together (you drive it out with a hammer and 6mm pin punch)
So I would say for now, just have a peek in there to see if that might be the problem...and if it is...let's cross that bridge when we absolutely have to
Replacing the bushings will mean the pedal cluster has to come all the way out, like the pic above, which involves unbolting the master cylinder in situ (which is a little fiddly), and unhooking the brake pedal
And then in order to get the pedal shaft out, you have to remove this rollpin that holds the assembly together (you drive it out with a hammer and 6mm pin punch)
So I would say for now, just have a peek in there to see if that might be the problem...and if it is...let's cross that bridge when we absolutely have to
#7
Rennlist Member
Anytime you get access to the roll pin, REPLACE IT! I've had a bunch of these shear off or split on their length and fall out leaving you stranded. I prefer a grade 8 shank macine bolt and nylock nut.
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#8
Burning Brakes
Let's see how the OP goes, but the creaking could potentially be a cracked rollpin bending like heck
#11
I get the same noise on and off. I think its related to how 'square' you push the peddle. The more off axis your leg motion the more noise it'll make (in my case).
Can you install a grease fitting??
Can you install a grease fitting??
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
#13
Three Wheelin'
The plastic bushes are inexpensive and not that difficult to replace. It makes everything smooth and nice. I would call it a very good job.
#14
Three Wheelin'
And, of course replacing roll pin. Very important.
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter