TYPE911

What is the primary cause of the roll-pin shearing or breaking off?
I have had one break already and 5000 miles later its starting to wallow out of the hole.

RS Clutch, LWF, new slave & master cyl & bleed approx 25,000 miles ago.

NateSaJack

Found this on another thread. Is there anything else I need to get in?

N023-351-1-OEM - Clutch Pedal Roll Pin
964-423-611-00-M100 - Clutch Pedal Bushing

http://www.pelicanparts.com/PartsLoo...-00-Frame5.htm

Babalouie

Depending on whether your pedals are the early version, you might not need the bushings. IIRC they weren't pricey, so you might as well (and I think you might need 2).

But yes that and the rollpin is all you need (might as well get two new pedal pads though, right?)

NateSaJack

Thanks, Pelican does say to buy two, and yes pedal pads need replacing.

I got the ply pedal board out real quick owing to the PO cutting it so its a two piece affair, another job on the list now to make a new one.

The clutch play isn't excessive but there is defiantly lateral movement so i"m gonna go for it.

Babalouie, can i have the next instalment on how to remove the cluster from the car??

Babalouie

Ok, so you've got the footboard off, and this is what you see


First, undo the two nuts that hold the clutch master to the pedal assembly. This is a little fiddly, as you can see, there isn't *quite* enough room to jam a regular 12mm socket in there. Oh you might be able to get by and bodge it, but a set of inexpensive tube spanners, or say a deep-socket might be a better option. I use a 1/4in drive socket set to get at these nuts.


Then remove the clip for the brake pedal pushrod. Also undo the clip for the clutch pedal bellcrank to the master cylinder. Then unplug the wires for the brake pedal light switch (and the clutch pedal switch if you have cruise control).


Then you remove the nuts holding the pedal assembly to the floor (some are behind), and then wiggle it downwards away from the clutch master cylinder. This bit is a little fiddly, as it'll seem like you have to remove the master cylinder first, but if you unclip the master cylinder hardlines from the tunnel, I find that you can get a little bit of flex in it that makes all the difference.


And then it'll be on your bench

NateSaJack

All done today. Took about an hour. Didn't solve it for me as there is a crack in the metal where the cluth cylinder bolts on which is allowing a small amount of movement when i depress the pedal.

New parts £3 from OPC. Was pretty messy, dirt, grease etc so nice to get that cleaned out too.

Thanks Babalouie for your help.