CBR786

I would start at the Dme relay with a tester to see if you are getting the correct live and earth connections at the dme relay for the dme relay if it has a wire loose behind under the fuse box will play havoc with fuel and spark delivery. The Dme relay does not just control fuel it also controls the spark as well via the main ECU. first thing first is the basics start checking all fuses then check DME relay pins while it is connected or even better hard wire some jumper wires in to eliminate the dme relay pins. I had to run a +12V to one of the pins dme relay to get my car going when I had gremlins.

Rocket Rob

Do you have access to a diagnostics tool such as a scantool, Hammer, PDT999 or Durametric? They can check for any fault codes.

This thread may be useful
https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...-pointers.html

As for changing the crank position sensor? Its pretty simple. The sensor is in the plane of the flywheel on the drivers side, just above the crank center line. Its attached to the engine via to 6mm bolts.

Photo borrowed from Pelican forum.

perelet

Careful with this on 964. Misfire can pop your intakes out of rubber sleeves. Nothing will break - just loud boom and then you'll need to take fan & filter assembly to refit intakes back.

1. To verify DME relay & fuel pump - use paper clip to jump relay, if you hear fuel pump, replace relay. (Look on the net for relay pin out)

2. To verify crank sensor. Go back and loosen up (but do not remove) cap nut - #7 on PET diagram on driver side fuel rail. Some gasoline will leak out. Place paper towels around it. Tighten #7. Crank engine. Loosen it #7 again. If gasoline gushes out - your crank sensor is good. Otherwise replace it.

If neither #1 and #2 will identify problem, consider yourself unlucky and start reading factory repair manual

Oleg.

max3.2

Ok let's go through this...

Fuses: All in and good!
Relay: Which pins to check?

Crank sensor and fuel: I opened the rail connection since #7 was stuck. Little bit of fuel came out. A buddy of mine went on and cranked the engine a second. My sweater and the engine compartment were drenched in fuel. So the pump is working. Does that mean that Relay and Crank sensor are good?

I got a feeling the ppl that chipped the DME messed up. Can't imagine both coils failed during 3 months.
Is there a way to measure trigger signal at the ignition amplifiers (in front of the coils...) - which pin should it be on? What to expect? rectangle pulse?

Rocket Rob

I would say your relay and crank sensor are good since you got fuel. Do you have access to a diagnostics tool?

As for the new chip, have you run the car since it was installed?

jevvy964

I'm not sure thats strictly true, the pump will prime but not run until is sees x rpm from the flywheel sensor.

Try jumping the DME relay to see if it fires up. Pics show my (crude but effective) jumper wire and it fitted to where the DME relay would be however your relay will be in the main fuse panel and not under the seat like mine:

max3.2

Allright guys this is kinda interesting but I think it's down to the Air Mass Flow upgrade. Got some strange stuff going on there. I'll try to explain...

MAF has another plug and needs power. Inside the plug, there are the old wires (4), a seperate T-sensor and the power which I !tapped! from the ignition.
Turns out tapping somewhere else solves the ignition problem (explanation see below...) but still the car just sputters and wont run.
It also need the plugged in and powered MAF (which is strange since its supposed to run without any signal from there...)

Right now, I am thinking about some wrong wiring in there. Sadly it's hard for y'all to help, got to wait till monday and contact the seller. If someone's got a wiring scheme OR wire color codes for the wiring harness around the AFM - much appreciated!

more to come in a few days...

Indycam

That is so not the way to test . People are freaked by a little starter fluid , but here is a guy trying to win the Darwin award .

Anyone thinking of causing an intentional fuel leak , please think again .
Please don't let fuel drench you or your car .

Dude , you have proven that the fuel pump is running , but you haven't proven you have fuel being injected . Big Big difference .

The fuel drenching you tells me that the dme relay turned on the fuel pump , the fuel pump must be turned on when the motor is cranked over . It does not tell me that the dme relay is powering up the dme .

max3.2

Well if I get myself killed or the car burns to the ground, the problem is kinda solved

CBR786

+1 (INDY)

if the dme relay is not powering the DME main ecu you might as well be trying to start car with no ECU.

do a search plenty of posts on how to jumper the relay also use a volt meter to check feeds across jumpers

max3.2

OK a little update coming...Still alive and no major burn down AND car still dosn't start

Just to recap post #12 and try some explaining:

So I unplugged one Ignition Controller, the one at the coil where I was tapping the +12 for the MAF supply, I wanted to check the trigger signal.
So I cranked and: We have a signal: car sputters but won't run without the starter. Also only one spark since the other coil is cold. But clearly, there is combustion. So I unplugged the +12 supply leaving the MAF cold -> no spark again ?!?
Next step was tapping the +12 supply somewhere else (I took another batterie to ensure no inference) -> now its sputtering again, won't run without starter again, but has two sparks. Sounds like wrong timing.

So my problem: Why the hell do I need the MAF and need it powered but can't take the power from ignition? Something is wrong with it... The engine is supposed to run on safe mode without any signal from any sort of air sensor, isn't it??

So last chance: There are 2 wires on one pin in the "new" MAF plug. So maybe something went wrong here? I took the plug away, leaving the 4 original wires hanging free (put electrical tape around them), thus simulating a car with a faulty or no air sensor. No changes for the ret of the car BUT the changed DME. Again, no spark.
I call DME. Think they messed it up. Any other ideas? Since its getting ignition and fuel with the strange setup taking MAF power somewhere else, I don't think relay problems anymore. Also, I did do a test run wirh the 4 wires hanging around and jumper in Relay postion

max3.2

OK Company that did the chipping got the DME back again and tested ist. It's broken. I see a connection here

Now its gonna be interesting. Car was running before. They neither checked DME on arrival nor when sending it out the first time. We'll see how they react to this one, hope there will be a solution.

vagluv

why are you sending if off for chipping? are not all chips like the wong chip that you install yourself?

max3.2

Its a chip plus MAF. You have to add an AD/DA to the DME to use the signal . That's what the company does.

Well seems like someone served me a big **** sandwich

The sensor hat two pins bridged which weren't supossed to be bridged. So I put +12V at a ground terminal at the DME. Circuit broke, soldering won't help, looks like it took some stuff with it. That's the main gound post in the DME
Company starts to blame sensor company who supplies them with the sensors and wants to send the faulty one over to them. Guess what they gonna say and guess whos gonna pay if he wants to drive again in the next 2 years

And thats not all. Just arrived at my car !in! !the! !fuqing! !garage!. Someone broke int he garage and then in my car! Damage not quoted yet.

Ima kill someone...

alexjc4

What a nightmare! When it rains it pours. Good luck getting everything fixed up. I wonder if you can find a loaner stock DME and AFM to test?