964 Refurb
03-13-2013, 08:09 AM
#17
Three Wheelin'
Nice work there, getting properly stuck in! And a beautiful looking car to start with.
I think you got unlucky there and your subframe was unusually bad, mine came apart surprisingly easily, a lot of the tectyl was still in place and that clearly helps. Subframes do come up and seem to go for sensible money on ebay if you decide yours has too much corrosion.
I think you got unlucky there and your subframe was unusually bad, mine came apart surprisingly easily, a lot of the tectyl was still in place and that clearly helps. Subframes do come up and seem to go for sensible money on ebay if you decide yours has too much corrosion.
03-13-2013, 09:07 AM
#18
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, I think the subframe parts will be fine now. It was just the bolt holes that were proper furred up. All the brown and black gunk smeared over the parts is just old underbody wax. Its pretty clean underneith. I'm dropping the subframe/wishbones/rack/uprights/front+rear ARBs at the powder coaters on Friday to be blasted. The ARBs will be coated black, but the alloy suspension parts will be left natural finish (possibly lacquer them). The iron uprights will be painted with POR15.
When I reassemble it (with new spec bolts) I'm going to ensure every thread, bolt shank and through hole has a liberal coating of anti seize! Anybody have a recommendation on what to use here? Given its steel bolts into aluminium I'm guessing a silver anti seize compound is in order?
When I reassemble it (with new spec bolts) I'm going to ensure every thread, bolt shank and through hole has a liberal coating of anti seize! Anybody have a recommendation on what to use here? Given its steel bolts into aluminium I'm guessing a silver anti seize compound is in order?
03-17-2013, 09:21 AM
#19
Three Wheelin'
964 Refurb
Looks like you are going to do a good job on your refurb.
On the subject of corrosion between the aluminium and steel bolts, as long as you use a non conducting anti seize product you shouldn't have the issue again.
I'm searching for a LHD 964 C2 and plan a refurb too, so watching your progress with interest.
By the way, my office is in Stanmore, so not far from you.
On the subject of corrosion between the aluminium and steel bolts, as long as you use a non conducting anti seize product you shouldn't have the issue again.
I'm searching for a LHD 964 C2 and plan a refurb too, so watching your progress with interest.
By the way, my office is in Stanmore, so not far from you.
03-17-2013, 09:30 AM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Hi, what do you mean by non-conducting? All the anti-seize products I've ever used are based on a metallic compound. Could you provide an example brand/product name?
PS I'll update this thread tonight with the weekends progresss :-)
Thanks
PS I'll update this thread tonight with the weekends progresss :-)
Thanks
03-17-2013, 10:23 AM
#22
03-17-2013, 03:26 PM
#23
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Yeah, I'm aware of why its corroded.... I'm yet to find a trace of any previous anti-seize also!
Well, this weekend has been quite productive. I dropped all the suspension parts, and both front and rear ARBs into the powder coater on Friday morning. He does a great 24hr service so were ready for collection 9am Saturday morning :-)
Whilst everything was out I got underneath with a wire brush and cleaned all the crud off back to the underseal. It's all in good condition so thats a plus. I did notice a small area of corrosion tho in the corner where the brake pipes pass through the tub bulkhead on-route to the ABS module.
On close inspection it appears a poor job was done here with the seam sealer where two panels overlay. A bit was missed and water could get through and into the front trunk.
You can see the top right of the circular cutout shape, it wasn't proper sealed.
It did unfortunately mean disconnecting all the brake lines and having to move the ABS module out the way. This in itself was a bit of a pig with many of the brake unions rounding due to corrosion. Sod it, I pulled the lot out. I've got a double flaring tool and pots of unions so will make up some new lines.
I dug out all the paint and underseal both sides until clean metal. It was really just surface rust so wasn't going to require anything too drastic. I gave it a good dousing of phosphoric acid (excellent stuff) whilst I moved onto other jobs, popping back to it every few hours to re-wet to prevent it drying out. This is excellent stuff as it dissolves only the rust and leaves the clean metal and paint well alone. By the end of the day all the metal was shiny again. A good clean down to remove any residue and then a quick spray with 'Metal Ready' to leave it over night.
Next morning I gave it two coats of bonda-primer (again very good product) and then later two coats of underseal (3M 08876). All being good I'll be able to mask off and top coat the section within the trunk tomorrow eve.
Small chips and ****** where to be found around the protruding edges else where so they all got the same treatment :-)
Having collected all the cleaned parts from the powder coaters I now wanted to press out the bearings from the uprights. Its always worth leaving the bearings in whist parts are blasted, that way you won't suffer any interference fit issues should the guy be heavy handed with the blasting.
almost out...
Judging from their out edges and the bolt heads of the retainers, these looked to be the original bearings so could do with being replaced at 100K miles :-)
So here are the shiney new parts!! I've sprayed the subframe components with a heavy lacquer. The rack will get the same treatment. The hubs will get a coat of high temp black paint and the uprights a coat of black POR15. I'll push in all the new Powerflex bushes tonight.
Lastly, I wanted to remove the top mounts from the old front shocks as I'd need them for the KV3s I've got. It looked like they'd been removed before because the alen head in the top of the shocker shaft was almost completely mullered :-( I had to hammer in a torx head bit into the hole instead.
The 2nd of the two shockers was ok but it snapped my 7mm alen bit trying to loosen the top bolt. As I never plan to use these rotten rusty shocks again, that too got the torx head hammered into the top. I had a real issue loosening this one. It was done up F-O tight! I had to 'modify' my double ended spanner with an angle grinder so that I could slide a bar onto the end for more leverage - this did the trick.
I'm pretty sure the top mounts have been replaced at some point. Thankfully these were in perfect nick.
Every last piece of this car will be put together with an identical spec new bolt, nut and washer AND properly lubed up :-)
Well, this weekend has been quite productive. I dropped all the suspension parts, and both front and rear ARBs into the powder coater on Friday morning. He does a great 24hr service so were ready for collection 9am Saturday morning :-)
Whilst everything was out I got underneath with a wire brush and cleaned all the crud off back to the underseal. It's all in good condition so thats a plus. I did notice a small area of corrosion tho in the corner where the brake pipes pass through the tub bulkhead on-route to the ABS module.
On close inspection it appears a poor job was done here with the seam sealer where two panels overlay. A bit was missed and water could get through and into the front trunk.
You can see the top right of the circular cutout shape, it wasn't proper sealed.
It did unfortunately mean disconnecting all the brake lines and having to move the ABS module out the way. This in itself was a bit of a pig with many of the brake unions rounding due to corrosion. Sod it, I pulled the lot out. I've got a double flaring tool and pots of unions so will make up some new lines.
I dug out all the paint and underseal both sides until clean metal. It was really just surface rust so wasn't going to require anything too drastic. I gave it a good dousing of phosphoric acid (excellent stuff) whilst I moved onto other jobs, popping back to it every few hours to re-wet to prevent it drying out. This is excellent stuff as it dissolves only the rust and leaves the clean metal and paint well alone. By the end of the day all the metal was shiny again. A good clean down to remove any residue and then a quick spray with 'Metal Ready' to leave it over night.
Next morning I gave it two coats of bonda-primer (again very good product) and then later two coats of underseal (3M 08876). All being good I'll be able to mask off and top coat the section within the trunk tomorrow eve.
Small chips and ****** where to be found around the protruding edges else where so they all got the same treatment :-)
Having collected all the cleaned parts from the powder coaters I now wanted to press out the bearings from the uprights. Its always worth leaving the bearings in whist parts are blasted, that way you won't suffer any interference fit issues should the guy be heavy handed with the blasting.
almost out...
Judging from their out edges and the bolt heads of the retainers, these looked to be the original bearings so could do with being replaced at 100K miles :-)
So here are the shiney new parts!! I've sprayed the subframe components with a heavy lacquer. The rack will get the same treatment. The hubs will get a coat of high temp black paint and the uprights a coat of black POR15. I'll push in all the new Powerflex bushes tonight.
Lastly, I wanted to remove the top mounts from the old front shocks as I'd need them for the KV3s I've got. It looked like they'd been removed before because the alen head in the top of the shocker shaft was almost completely mullered :-( I had to hammer in a torx head bit into the hole instead.
The 2nd of the two shockers was ok but it snapped my 7mm alen bit trying to loosen the top bolt. As I never plan to use these rotten rusty shocks again, that too got the torx head hammered into the top. I had a real issue loosening this one. It was done up F-O tight! I had to 'modify' my double ended spanner with an angle grinder so that I could slide a bar onto the end for more leverage - this did the trick.
I'm pretty sure the top mounts have been replaced at some point. Thankfully these were in perfect nick.
Every last piece of this car will be put together with an identical spec new bolt, nut and washer AND properly lubed up :-)
03-25-2013, 08:35 AM
#27
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
What with the less than ideal weather and family duties, progress this weekend was a little slower.
Behind the scenes I've refurbed every single bracket that live underneith the car. These have all come up looking really good and I didn't need to replace any.
The powder coated ARBs..
The hubs and uprights are also back together with new bearings and looking fantastic :-) Forgot to snap a picture tho so I'll post that one later.
The main focus of the weekend was to complete the preparation of both the front inner wings for paint priming. At some point in its life both front wings had been removed/replaced. Whoever performed this did a pi$$ poor effort of making good once everything was back on. The area they'd stripped off underseal to remove the wings had been given nothing more that a lick of black paint. The top inner wing edge along which the wings bolt to had NO paint, just bare metal, and covered with a thick seam of some kind of non-setting putty in the joint :-( The I think I can count myself lucky that I got here just in time to stop the advance of the rust. It took ages to remove all the old black paint, and get the corrosion areas down to clean metal. Thanks to the galv this was only surface rust and a couple of hours wet with the the phosphoric acid saw gleaming metal again. After a good clean up the areas were then etched followed by a coat of primer. Its looking much much better now. I spent a good amount of time getting the surface of the inner wings absolutely spotless with thinners and lightly roughed up as I intend to recoat with stonechip and topcoat with body colour.
Took the opportunity to 'cleanup' the front left arch. I've deleted the big washer tank and its mounts and will swap the pump wiring connections to the intensive washer so that it can be run from the steering column stalk control. I've also rerouted the intensive water pipe so that it doesn't have to run along the outside of the inner arch. The holes through which the associated loom and pipes entered/exited the inner wing have been bunged with grommets and will be sealed over when I spray the stone chip on. The only thing in that arch once finished is the petrol filler pipe :-)
Behind the scenes I've refurbed every single bracket that live underneith the car. These have all come up looking really good and I didn't need to replace any.
The powder coated ARBs..
The hubs and uprights are also back together with new bearings and looking fantastic :-) Forgot to snap a picture tho so I'll post that one later.
The main focus of the weekend was to complete the preparation of both the front inner wings for paint priming. At some point in its life both front wings had been removed/replaced. Whoever performed this did a pi$$ poor effort of making good once everything was back on. The area they'd stripped off underseal to remove the wings had been given nothing more that a lick of black paint. The top inner wing edge along which the wings bolt to had NO paint, just bare metal, and covered with a thick seam of some kind of non-setting putty in the joint :-( The I think I can count myself lucky that I got here just in time to stop the advance of the rust. It took ages to remove all the old black paint, and get the corrosion areas down to clean metal. Thanks to the galv this was only surface rust and a couple of hours wet with the the phosphoric acid saw gleaming metal again. After a good clean up the areas were then etched followed by a coat of primer. Its looking much much better now. I spent a good amount of time getting the surface of the inner wings absolutely spotless with thinners and lightly roughed up as I intend to recoat with stonechip and topcoat with body colour.
Took the opportunity to 'cleanup' the front left arch. I've deleted the big washer tank and its mounts and will swap the pump wiring connections to the intensive washer so that it can be run from the steering column stalk control. I've also rerouted the intensive water pipe so that it doesn't have to run along the outside of the inner arch. The holes through which the associated loom and pipes entered/exited the inner wing have been bunged with grommets and will be sealed over when I spray the stone chip on. The only thing in that arch once finished is the petrol filler pipe :-)
