To rebuild or not - just for some leaks
#16
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,249
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From: Bahrain = somewhere in the Middle East
Oil level... well I wait until the needle is barely coming off the bottom... then check and generally add a QT... after which it would register about 3/4 up on the dash.
#17
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,249
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From: Bahrain = somewhere in the Middle East
Well,
i did some fixing job during the last four years. They costs me some money too, took time and wheren`t realy successfull at least.
Last autum, i had a serious oil-leak on the foot of one cylinder. I grabbed the chance, closed my eyes (for financial reasons) and ordered a full rebuild with slightly modifications (cams...)...
I would rebuild the engine, or complete reseal it, if you want to hold the car some times longer...
i did some fixing job during the last four years. They costs me some money too, took time and wheren`t realy successfull at least.
Last autum, i had a serious oil-leak on the foot of one cylinder. I grabbed the chance, closed my eyes (for financial reasons) and ordered a full rebuild with slightly modifications (cams...)...
I would rebuild the engine, or complete reseal it, if you want to hold the car some times longer...
#19
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 39
From: Bahrain = somewhere in the Middle East
Also the climate here is extreme... seals suffer here. Very hot, followed by getting into AC garage, then out very humid, followed by extreme dryness... tires here don't last beyond 2 years simply due to UV light. In EU the same condition for tires is reached after 12 years just to give a comparison.
Now if the compression doesn't look good, then that would make me suspecious.
Right now I'm leaning towards just fixing the timing chain covers, the oil return line couplings and looking if the power steering is leaking. I intend to drive this car for a LOOOOONG time... but that doesn't mean pre-mature rebuilds are good as I see it as a form of waste (no offence). I'm very pragmatic in this, but the car must be in good condition mechanically and presentable.
Unless the compression test points in a different direction. Now where is that tool!
#20
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 39
From: Bahrain = somewhere in the Middle East
#1 There are copper ring gaskets on the pipe connections to the oil filter housing, and also a smaller copper gasket for the bolt on the housing (the one you're supposed to take out to make the oil drain better). Quite certain those $0.20 gaskets are the source of that leak.
Anybody have the answer to this?
Below you can see how at number 1 there is no washer... not sure if there should be.
Number 2 does have the washer.
Number 21 - circled - is the washer for the pipe on the case end. It's just the same as the oil drain plug.
#22
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 39
From: Bahrain = somewhere in the Middle East
The compression test was done yesterday... results are pretty consistent. So I'm somewhat convinced the engine rebuild wasn't a bad one and the powerplant isn't tired (yet).
Interesting were the spark plugs... one was bridged... ash and carbon build up I guess. I "unbridged" it and they will be replaced soon anyway, just decided not to only do half. This is my daily car and I did the compression test at 10 PM, when at 9 AM I needed to be back at work.
So there is something to look at... more in the next post.
Compression tests:
Cyl 1: 195 psi
Cyl 2: 200 psi
Cyl 3: 195 psi
Cyl 4: 180 psi - this was my first cylinder test, so perhaps it would've been a little higher if I retried, but since not too far out I let it go since it wouldn't have made me change my thoughts on the results
Cyl 5: 190 psi
Cyl 6: 205 psi on go 1, 195 on the second go
Interesting were the spark plugs... one was bridged... ash and carbon build up I guess. I "unbridged" it and they will be replaced soon anyway, just decided not to only do half. This is my daily car and I did the compression test at 10 PM, when at 9 AM I needed to be back at work.
So there is something to look at... more in the next post.
Compression tests:
Cyl 1: 195 psi
Cyl 2: 200 psi
Cyl 3: 195 psi
Cyl 4: 180 psi - this was my first cylinder test, so perhaps it would've been a little higher if I retried, but since not too far out I let it go since it wouldn't have made me change my thoughts on the results
Cyl 5: 190 psi
Cyl 6: 205 psi on go 1, 195 on the second go
#23
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,249
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From: Bahrain = somewhere in the Middle East
The spark plugs don't look too good for 20k KM... there seems to be some carbon build up and ash deposits on the plugs.
I'm not sure where this comes from... yes she probably runs a little rich. Since I have not managed to find a tailpipe "sniffer" to measure how the mixture is I can only assume. But there may be something more going on.
Any advice experts?
My unexperienced opinion below. Only based off comparison pictures from a Haynes manual with my pictures.
Cylinder 1: Looks like some carbon build up
Cylinder 2: This one has a lot of what looks like ash deposits. It was also bridged. As can see in the third and fourth shot.
Cylinder 3: Normal looking - perhaps very little carbon build up
Cylinder 4: Looks normal
Cylinder 5: Looks normal
Cylinder 6: Looks normal to me - little carbon perhaps
I'm not sure where this comes from... yes she probably runs a little rich. Since I have not managed to find a tailpipe "sniffer" to measure how the mixture is I can only assume. But there may be something more going on.
Any advice experts?
My unexperienced opinion below. Only based off comparison pictures from a Haynes manual with my pictures.
Cylinder 1: Looks like some carbon build up
Cylinder 2: This one has a lot of what looks like ash deposits. It was also bridged. As can see in the third and fourth shot.
Cylinder 3: Normal looking - perhaps very little carbon build up
Cylinder 4: Looks normal
Cylinder 5: Looks normal
Cylinder 6: Looks normal to me - little carbon perhaps
#24
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,249
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From: Bahrain = somewhere in the Middle East
So with all this info, here's where I stand:
1/ Chain cover housing leak on the driver side needs to be addressed
2/ Oil line oil filter housing to engine address leak at both ends
3/ Power steering pump - I think it's leaking
Now I need some advice on two things:
A/ What can be told about the spark plugs?
B/ What about the leak below? It's not clear to me what would be leaking, since it doesn't seem to be coming from above.
1/ Chain cover housing leak on the driver side needs to be addressed
2/ Oil line oil filter housing to engine address leak at both ends
3/ Power steering pump - I think it's leaking
Now I need some advice on two things:
A/ What can be told about the spark plugs?
B/ What about the leak below? It's not clear to me what would be leaking, since it doesn't seem to be coming from above.
#26
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 39
From: Bahrain = somewhere in the Middle East
Hello, hello, hello, hello... Waiting patiently as the echo bounces off the walls of the underground car park where the 964 is patiently waiting for some love
#27
Formerly turbotwoshoes
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Russellville, Arkansas
Just my guess...
I keep looking at your pictures and when mine leaked (past tense) like that, I found a majority was coming from the top of the engine form the oil pressure oil temperature housing and the associated o-rings. It takes a couple of days taking your time, but it is not a hard job to tackle. You can actually just take off the right hand side intake and reach the fittings for repair. But what I found was that I had to change all my rubbers, ie. intake sleeves, and associated hardware. My car was from Texas and my o-ring was brittle. I had a thread where I showed how brittle and cracked the intake sleeves and o-rings were. see the thread:
"Check your rubbers and plug wires"
"Check your rubbers and plug wires"
#28
Good luck.
#29
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 39
From: Bahrain = somewhere in the Middle East
I'm not sure where the leak comes from... But I can say that the top of the engine that is visible without taking the intake off is dry. I ran my fingers through some spots and while not clean, it doesn't feel wet/oily.
If it's serious I may just want to leave it as is. I mean, what is the worst case scenario? Is there a risk with the oil dripping on the heat exchangers?
Now, is there anybody who can read these plugs? Some look normal to me, but a few looks like there is something not right. I could use some expert advice there.
If it's serious I may just want to leave it as is. I mean, what is the worst case scenario? Is there a risk with the oil dripping on the heat exchangers?
Now, is there anybody who can read these plugs? Some look normal to me, but a few looks like there is something not right. I could use some expert advice there.