Navaros911

Yep... just regular valve adjustment.

Oil level... well I wait until the needle is barely coming off the bottom... then check and generally add a QT... after which it would register about 3/4 up on the dash.

Navaros911

She doesn't need to be bone dry... she's a daily driver and I'm not too bothered with a drop here and there. Though, even without tray, I haven't seen a drop after sitting overnight.

Navaros911

Common would be an understatement then... LOL

Navaros911

Well it has been 7 years since the work was done... and the first thing they checked was when it was done to see if there would be some warranty work they could do. I can't blame them.

Also the climate here is extreme... seals suffer here. Very hot, followed by getting into AC garage, then out very humid, followed by extreme dryness... tires here don't last beyond 2 years simply due to UV light. In EU the same condition for tires is reached after 12 years just to give a comparison.

Now if the compression doesn't look good, then that would make me suspecious.

Right now I'm leaning towards just fixing the timing chain covers, the oil return line couplings and looking if the power steering is leaking. I intend to drive this car for a LOOOOONG time... but that doesn't mean pre-mature rebuilds are good as I see it as a form of waste (no offence). I'm very pragmatic in this, but the car must be in good condition mechanically and presentable.

Unless the compression test points in a different direction. Now where is that tool!

Navaros911

Thanks for the advice... I can find the one on the case end in PET. Also the one under the bolt to help with draining on the oil housing, but i don't see one between the oil pipe and the filter housing.

Anybody have the answer to this?

Below you can see how at number 1 there is no washer... not sure if there should be.

Number 2 does have the washer.



Number 21 - circled - is the washer for the pipe on the case end. It's just the same as the oil drain plug.

-nick

Hi- #48 is the other copper washer. They sit between the housing and the female-female adapters, #49, which the hoses screw onto.

Good luck!

Navaros911

The compression test was done yesterday... results are pretty consistent. So I'm somewhat convinced the engine rebuild wasn't a bad one and the powerplant isn't tired (yet).

Interesting were the spark plugs... one was bridged... ash and carbon build up I guess. I "unbridged" it and they will be replaced soon anyway, just decided not to only do half. This is my daily car and I did the compression test at 10 PM, when at 9 AM I needed to be back at work.

So there is something to look at... more in the next post.

Compression tests:

Cyl 1: 195 psi


Cyl 2: 200 psi


Cyl 3: 195 psi


Cyl 4: 180 psi - this was my first cylinder test, so perhaps it would've been a little higher if I retried, but since not too far out I let it go since it wouldn't have made me change my thoughts on the results


Cyl 5: 190 psi


Cyl 6: 205 psi on go 1, 195 on the second go

Navaros911

The spark plugs don't look too good for 20k KM... there seems to be some carbon build up and ash deposits on the plugs.

I'm not sure where this comes from... yes she probably runs a little rich. Since I have not managed to find a tailpipe "sniffer" to measure how the mixture is I can only assume. But there may be something more going on.

Any advice experts?

My unexperienced opinion below. Only based off comparison pictures from a Haynes manual with my pictures.

Cylinder 1: Looks like some carbon build up



Cylinder 2: This one has a lot of what looks like ash deposits. It was also bridged. As can see in the third and fourth shot.





Cylinder 3: Normal looking - perhaps very little carbon build up



Cylinder 4: Looks normal



Cylinder 5: Looks normal



Cylinder 6: Looks normal to me - little carbon perhaps

Navaros911

So with all this info, here's where I stand:

1/ Chain cover housing leak on the driver side needs to be addressed
2/ Oil line oil filter housing to engine address leak at both ends
3/ Power steering pump - I think it's leaking


Now I need some advice on two things:

A/ What can be told about the spark plugs?
B/ What about the leak below? It's not clear to me what would be leaking, since it doesn't seem to be coming from above.

Navaros911

Guess everybody was in the garage working on their cars... still with a little dilemma on what to do next.

Advice?

Navaros911

Hello, hello, hello, hello... Waiting patiently as the echo bounces off the walls of the underground car park where the 964 is patiently waiting for some love

Jacke2c

I keep looking at your pictures and when mine leaked (past tense) like that, I found a majority was coming from the top of the engine form the oil pressure oil temperature housing and the associated o-rings. It takes a couple of days taking your time, but it is not a hard job to tackle. You can actually just take off the right hand side intake and reach the fittings for repair. But what I found was that I had to change all my rubbers, ie. intake sleeves, and associated hardware. My car was from Texas and my o-ring was brittle. I had a thread where I showed how brittle and cracked the intake sleeves and o-rings were. see the thread:

"Check your rubbers and plug wires"

Crystal Cranks

If it's definitely not coming from the top then this leak is not an easy fix as it's probably through bolt seals or maybe clyinder base seals, both require the top end to be stripped.
Good luck.

Navaros911

I'm not sure where the leak comes from... But I can say that the top of the engine that is visible without taking the intake off is dry. I ran my fingers through some spots and while not clean, it doesn't feel wet/oily.

If it's serious I may just want to leave it as is. I mean, what is the worst case scenario? Is there a risk with the oil dripping on the heat exchangers?

Now, is there anybody who can read these plugs? Some look normal to me, but a few looks like there is something not right. I could use some expert advice there.

Navaros911

Anybody with spark plug advice?