Power steering belt, cam seal & o-ring change
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Power steering belt, cam seal & o-ring change
So, I think I will have to do this soon, to stop a leak coming from the power steering belt housing.
I'm putting together my laundry list of parts, but I notice that the parts diagram shows this little dowel (#2 in this diagram)
And I found a vendor that sells the belt and the dowel as a set.
But what does the dowel do? Is it a key to locate the belt sprocket onto the camshaft end?
I'm putting together my laundry list of parts, but I notice that the parts diagram shows this little dowel (#2 in this diagram)
And I found a vendor that sells the belt and the dowel as a set.
But what does the dowel do? Is it a key to locate the belt sprocket onto the camshaft end?
#2
Three Wheelin'
The dowel aligns the housing (part no 1) with the cam carrier/head.
My leak, which I fixed recently, turn out to be from the pump itself and was dripping down the inside of the housing. There is a seal kit you can buy so you don't need a whole new pump.
My leak, which I fixed recently, turn out to be from the pump itself and was dripping down the inside of the housing. There is a seal kit you can buy so you don't need a whole new pump.
#3
Are you going to try to get pump off with engine in car?? I've got a pump leak, plus others, and was thinking that dropping the engine would make the whole process a bunch easier.
#4
Z
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Is there a woodruff key or something between the cam sprocket and the belt?
I think it is doable without a drop. I'll remove the oil feed pipe that goes in front of the belt housing (gotta change the softhoses anyway), and the muffler and its bracket. Still no way of getting my bulky impact wrench in there, but I think I can use the muffler bracket to brace the cam sprocket for loosening/tightening by drilling a hole in the bracket, and fixing a thick bolt through it, which will jam against the cam sprocket spokes...but I can't see any indication that the sprocket is keyed to the camshaft, so I dunno if that is the right way to go about it.
#6
Three Wheelin'
The sprocket isn't keyed to the camshaft in anyway - just bolted on.
I looked at different ways to bracethe sprocket to undo and do-up the bolt and in the end just stuck a nice big fat flat head screw driver through the spokes and braced against the ribs/bolt heads in the housing backing.
For what its worh the oil coming out of my pump wasn't especially ATF looking, fairly black and gooey, the only way I could be sure was that the pump seal was grotty looking whereas the camshaft seal and o-ring was nice and clean, they were however well baked so I replaced them anyway.
I think the ticky bit doing the job in the car will be aligning the housing to press nice and square into the case carrier without pinching the o ring, you have to be completely square or it won't go.
I looked at different ways to bracethe sprocket to undo and do-up the bolt and in the end just stuck a nice big fat flat head screw driver through the spokes and braced against the ribs/bolt heads in the housing backing.
For what its worh the oil coming out of my pump wasn't especially ATF looking, fairly black and gooey, the only way I could be sure was that the pump seal was grotty looking whereas the camshaft seal and o-ring was nice and clean, they were however well baked so I replaced them anyway.
I think the ticky bit doing the job in the car will be aligning the housing to press nice and square into the case carrier without pinching the o ring, you have to be completely square or it won't go.
#7
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#8
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#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks Alex & Steen, from the diagram, that's what I was thinking.
But in theory...if the sprocket is not keyed to the camshaft, then it shouldn't be necessary to brace it against the case, right?
But in theory...if the sprocket is not keyed to the camshaft, then it shouldn't be necessary to brace it against the case, right?
#10
Three Wheelin'
It will load up the timing chain (other end of the camshaft) and then eventually you will turn the engine over, given the torque involved, so you do need to counter hold in some way. Once there's some friction between the sprocket and the camshaft, and the sprocket itself is braced, everything stays still.
#12
Three Wheelin'
Yeah, same issue doing it up, just wedge the screwdriver on the otherside of the rib.
The friction between end of camshaft and sprocket is quickly enough that you can hold the camshaft still by bracing the sprocket.
The friction between end of camshaft and sprocket is quickly enough that you can hold the camshaft still by bracing the sprocket.