NateSaJack

Guys would you mind having a look at photo below. I have a small amount of oil coming from the bolt which collects just below before making its was onto the driveway.

A quick look in Adrian's book shows a similar photo with nuts and studs at each fixing. I seem to have a bolt? I tightened it up and will see if it stops the leak but wondered if you thought it's worth trying to get a stud / bolt and new rubber washer (which looks far more compressed then the others).

Thanks as always.

N

Vandit

Yea, it's suppose to have a stud and nut w/ the funny washer. Are you sure there's a rubber seal behind that washer?


^The black rubber rings, there should be one on each fastener.

The studs will usually back out w/ the nut when you try to remove the nut. Not a big deal. I believe 100% of the 18 fasteners came out w/ the stud when I redid my timing chain cover gaskets earlier this year. I just reinstalled them as a unit.

ras62

Do not over tighten those nuts, it is easy to crack the mag case if you try. You may well just need a new rubber as pointed out above although some are not so easy to get at.

mojorizing

There's a couple of points with those studs.

1) A few years ago a poster was threading a stud back into the blind hole and captured oil at the bottom hydraulically cracked the back side of the cam housing. Be sure there's no liquid in the holes.
HERE"S THE LINK

2) The rubber gromments compress around the smooth section of the studs.....studs aren't full thread. Given this, at some point when your re-torquing these fasteners, you're not compressing the grommet - you're stripping the thread. These gromments get hard and lose their resiliency.

3) If you do remove the stud/nut combination, it's best to separate the two, clean out the threads with a tap, thread the stud back into the hole,then re-install cover. This way you'll have full thread engagement where it counts....stud to cam housing.

The required torque is posted here....7lbs/ft I think but check me on that.

NateSaJack

Thanks chaps I seem to be suffering from a bodge it repair! I'm guessing that if the mech couldn't be bothered to replace the stud/nut combo then the rubber washer is probably a make do part also, it def doesn't seem to be the same size as the others.

A job for next weekend

RicardoD

7ft-lbs on the stud re-installation or the cam cover nut? I am going to get to this in the next few weeks. Thanks for the tips.

Vandit

Probably both, and the highly detail-oriented will tell you to put a bit of locktite on the stud too.

xeps

Definitely suggest following recommended torque on these, and would replace that with the correct stud/nut combination.

My timing chain covers leaked horribly when I got the car, because one of the studs was stripped from over-tightening. It could be turned by hand and operated somewhat like a faucet - turn it just right and oil would pour straight out.

Ended up repairing with a helicoil. Was not particularly fun, but is bone dry now.