indasevens

Body is in great shape, interior avg. and motor is out and all apart..Owner states the new motor is out of 30,000 mile 964..but it is all apart..The seller seems organized and has everything separated into boxes and so forth...anyway, hoping to get a good deal on it and put it all back together myself or sell all the motor stuff and well....dont shoot me---but put an LS1 in it...

two questions----what is all the motor stuff worth..just ballbark--3 grand?? maybe 5????

next --- what is rolling chassis worth with the trans????

thanks everyine--

berni29

Hi

If the motor is out of a 30k car then does he have documentation to prove? Did he buy the motor in bits? Usually if the motor is in bits then it would have had a problem. Not to say that you will not have fun putting it back together again. If the price is right then why not.

Berni

indasevens

The car has just over 100,000 miles on it....He bought a motor that had 30,000 miles from another source....Just a bit of a project and trying to get an idea what its worth and which direction to go.....

thanks again

Makmov

The roller is probably in the low teens 9-13K. It really depends on what the rest of the car is like.

Box of engine parts couple 2 3k If they look good and measure within specs.

If you can make a running engine out of what is there 5 6K assembled.


You are probably on the wrong message boards for LS1 talk.

indasevens

I knew not many would be in favor of the LS1 talk but Pelican and Rennlist is THE place for porsches...I have had several ------The one that got away was a rust free 70 911.....I miss that car--so nice so rust free -----BUT---want 400-450 Hp in a 911 and this looks to be best way to go..Thanks for all the help

Anyone want a box full of 964 engine parts????? LOLOLOL

Makmov

You can build a 400hp flat six. There is 300 there with just a chip and free flowing exhuast.

There was another guy just with shy of 400 with a stand alone, but otherwise pretty stock block and guts.

Once you chop it up for an LS1 it will never be worth 964 money.

Don't know why someone would want to take a $20,000 + car and make a $5000 car out of it.

indasevens

ok then--Help a porsche newbie out...I have been into muscle cars and drag cars forever...BUilt drove a 6 sec 210 mPh outlaw 10.5 car Have always always loved porsches...owned a few...944 turbo and a stock 45,000 mile 70 911

SO, I can buy this car really cheap...I just have no experience with porsche motors and therefore, like anything new and no knowledge --afraid of cost and not knowing....I have no prob tackling it but have no BUDDIES near me that i know of that is a porsche enthusist to help guide me as to acheive what i want..


If this was YOUR car---what would you do????

Makmov

If it was my car I would inventory what is there, what is good and what needs replaced, replace what needs to be replace, build an engine, put it back in the car.

Yes the are very expensive especially when it comes to engine work, but they are pretty bullet proof if they are built right and properly maintianed.

If you can buy the car cheap then you should be able to afford to put it back right. Otherwise, honestly, you probably cannot afford to own a 964. It was a 70K car new which is something like 120k in todays money, and needs treated like one.

Forget everything you know about drag cars pick up the Factory Shop Manual and there is couple good compainon books: Adrians 964 book and there is a 911 Engine book and build the engine.

If you are competent in the garage, take your time, and follow instructions you can build a 911 engine.

Cost, I cannot help you with, it cost what it cost, and you don't want to cheap out there.

If it is indeed a 30k engine, why is it apart in the first place. Are all the peices there, you can check out everything and have a good idea what you need to get to put it together.

The main thing is having the crank inspected and make sure that is good 1500 to 2000 to replace.

Pistons and cylinders the go forever but a new set of Mahles is 5k

If all your hard parts are there and in useable condition it wont be terribly expensive to build.

Replace the rod bolts with something like ARP or Raceware

Bearings are not too bad unless the are oversized. However, if the crank is not std std I would be hunting around for one.

And valve guides which seem to be an issue on all 911 engines, but they are not expensive to replace.

Get a couple new timing chains and ramps, a overhaul set and some new rings and build the damn thing, but don't take a perfectly good car and ruin it with a SBC.

If it has major issues, severe crash damage, just a ratted out shell, title problems fine it's not going to be worth anything anyway. You can find those for 4 or 5 grand.

indasevens

i really appreciate your thoughts----Im very competent in the garage..just no knowledge of porsche engines...the whole story is ---guy buys 964 iwth bad engine..thinks he can fix--engine is REALLY bad--welded together block and such....buys somehow..didnt get all the story..a 30,000 mile long block to put all acc. on and put back in.....Body of car is in REALLY nice shape..interior is good..minor things here and there....He seems organized--everything in boxes and labled..anyway--everything less than 10 grand.......I just need to learn, get help, or otherwise seal with the engine options

thanks again

FeralComprehension

You could part it for 10k probably, though I'd work for a lower price. Who's gonna buy that mess? How long will he wait for another ready buyer?

To turn a box of parts into a 400hp motor is probably a $15k endeavor minimum, and you can't verify the function of the (admitted robust but spendy to repair) AWD system with it all apart.

Look at the Pelican engine board for more on that and to get a more solid idea on price.

indasevens

great point on the awd system...

thanks

altarchsa

I'm usually very aggressive about tackling work myself and encouraging others to do more than they think they can, however...

30 years ago I was also very competent in the garage when I did my first 911 rebuild on a '75 911S. Even with some help from the local Porsche independent garage, I got to do the job twice because I didn't know, or learn from the garage, all the idiosynchrocies of a 2.7L magnesium case motor. (Time Serts, what are Time Serts? I said 5K miles after the first job.)

Now, with 7 rebuilds under my belt on 4 different 911's, and working on almost every other conceivable part of a Pcar, I feel I just know enough to get one apart and back together where it will hold up and run right. They are not like other cars! I think it would be very risky without an expert standing over your shoulder the whole way for a 911 novice to get it right, especially when you didn't take it apart yourself and don't know where everything goes. Haynes/Chilton and Bruce Anderson's books don't cover it all.

That said, I would hate to see you outlaw the car and not enjoy the full performance of an original 911. I'm not saying you won't get to 60 faster with a Chevy 350 in it, but you will miss out on the true 911 experience and that would be a shame. (P.S. I cut my "performance teeth" at 20 on a new SS396 Chevelle 325hp)

One idea is maybe you could explain your desire to do the work yourself to an expert and talk them into letting you rebuild the motor in their shop, and pay them something for their expertise in looking over your shoulder the whole way.

Best of luck with your decisions.

Makmov

Nothing like starting on the hardest one first, hey? I hated those damn mag case 2.7 with Thermoreactors.

I agree you are going to need some help but you can do the majority yourself.

Probably the trickiest bit is getting the cams right.

altarchsa

Yea, magnesium cases = nothing but trouble.

There are just so many little things too, like:

Installing the little o-rings on the thru-casebolts using a protective sleeve to keep the bolt threads from damaging them;

Using a really good torque wrench on ALL the bolts/nuts because the metals are so soft, especially if you're used to muscle cast iron. Probably means a large and a small size torque wrench in your box;

Knowing the important difference between silicone paste and silicone sealant, and where to use the paste and where not to use the sealant, which is everywhere;

Getting the car high enough off the floor BEFORE you start lowering the engine;

Understanding how important the valve guides are to valve cooling, so you don't break one and tear up a cylinder;

Etc., etc., etc..............