964C4_7

Well here is my first post as a 964 owner – it’s a 964 C4 Cab 92k, and boy did I wait to long to buy one!

After getting it a bit sorted (it hadn’t been properly serviced for 7 years) changing the tyres and getting the wheels aligned so they all point the right way, this car drives beautifully – I love the sound, the connection to the road, it just brings you alive every time and I have now started just going for a drive – something I haven’t done for years – and oddly it seems quite economical – win win to me

I didn’t actually plan on buying a cab, but this one, despite its faults just said take me home. It’s got 70k miles, needs quite a few jobs doing which I am slowly working my way through.

I have found the oil level sender is defective, I tested the circuit, and have obtained a replacement – before I crack on with this job I just had 2 questions, which I have searched on here for but cannot get a definitive answer
The new sensor does not have a gasket, I assume that there is a gasket between the sender and the oil tank – if so does this generally need replacing – I will most likely get one anyway, but good to know in advance.
Looking at the design of the sender – its looks like I will need to drain the oil tank – I assume that is achieved at the drain on the bottom – how much oil is likely to drain out, I assume the tank is sitting higher than the engine, so it will not be the full 11 litres ? will the drain need a new seal or is this reused?

There does not appear to be any wheel arch liner (plastic or otherwise) on the OSR – I can see the tank and associated pipework -should there be liner?

Jobs I have done so far, new tyres, 4 wheel alignment, changed the blown fan fuse (25 amp to 30amp), new brakes all round (uprated pads and discs), fixed all the interior lights, new wipers, it had a full service by a specialist, new wheel bearing, I replaced the fan belt sensor, new wipers, audio to be sorted (bit of a mess from previous install)

Jobs to do – new anti-roll bar links, sort the heating and ventilation system (fan runs all the time since fuse replaced) quite a few bits of bodywork, front and rear struts for front hood/engine cover, bit of heater pipe NSR, under tray clips, replace one hood motor (bracket broke)

Jobs I want to do – uprate the exhaust and induction system – possibly remove the rear blower fan (fabspeed RS part) and change the airbox, think about a G pipe or similar ??

I obtained two 993 hood motors which look the part, not sure if they will need any modification ?

http://964c4.blogspot.co.uk/

Look forward to hearing from you all

cheers

Rocket Rob

Welcome to Rennlist. Has anyone asked for pictures yet?

As for the oil level sensor. I've had to replace mine. Its not too hard. Just be sure to clean the area very well. You don't want any dirt to fall into the tank. If it does, it will go through the engine before it gets to the filter.

Will you need to drain the oil? Yes via the drain on the bottom of the thermostat.

How much will come out? It depends on how recently you ran the engine but I would say 1/2 of the oil or approx 5-6 quarts.

Should you replace the oil drain seal? Yes, I always do. But if you don't have one, you can reuse your old one if its not damaged. I suggest buying a bunch of spares. You need two for each oil change. One at the thermostat and the other on the engine case.

Should there be an liner in the fender well? No, if you have a narrow body car.

Helpful threads
Instructions = https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...el-sensor.html
Good picture = https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...ver-plate.html

NateSaJack

Sorry to jump in with a question, I have this on my todo list as I can't read the dipstick, does that make me a dipstick, perhaps!

Where exactly is the sender oil level sender? I have read a post where the guy removed the air intake manifold. Is there anything to check before embarking on replacement ie fuse? My guage holds at red and on switching on ignition it pegs out at the top.

Rocket Rob

The oil level sender is in the right rear wheel well. See the picture in the thread above.

As for trouble shooting, are you looking at the oil level or oil pressure gauge?

NateSaJack

For me its the level gauge.

Thanks just been out and taken off the cover plate, traced the wire up to it's connector and all seems in tact. I'll order the sender and give replacement a go.

964C4_7

Thanks for the reply and the link I need to locate the thermostat now or is that the drain plug I am seeing about 4 inches in from the seal ?
I will get new washers for the plug , to confirm no gasket for the sender then ? I anticipated some sort of seal ?

Rocket Rob

The drain plug is seen at the bottom of the rocker panel. See the 964 oil change procedure. https://rennlist.com/forums/964-1989...edure-diy.html



There is a gasket between the sender and the oil tank. Its part #993-207-226-00

The part number for the oil drain plug crush washer is 900-123-118-30 (its 22mm x 27mm). I usually buy them in set of 20 that way I have plenty on hand.

ray stobbs

plus one on all the above you have to take the front part of the air filter off just un clips and the air filter out this gives you access to the electric plug on the inner rear wing i did not drain the oil and had no problems with oil coming out you def need gasket the old one will tear when moved

964C4_7

Thanks for all the replies, its really helpful, I will hopefully do a pictorial for my blog as I progress on the car. Big thanks for taking the time to post the pictures rob and the part numbers its greatly appreciated, I hope I can help others in the future as much as you have helped me!. In terms of trouble shooting the gauge or the sender I unplugged the sender on the inside of the engine bay, (OSR) by the air filter/ fuel filter and put a short across it and observed the gauge fly the other way for a change which made my mind up it was the sender

-nick

Great advice above, I'll add-

*Don't over-torque the tiny (6mm?) nuts on the sender*

The studs on the oil tank will break right off.

Also, I didn't have to drain the oil tank. The level should be well below the sensor when cold.

dhc905

Btw, my oil level gauge doesn't work until it gets to temperature. Is this common? A sign of an imminent failure of the sensor? Anything else? The oil pressure gauges works well, and the dipstick shows good oil levels..

Vandit

The oil gauge will not read a level unless the car is really hot and sitting at idle for 30 seconds. And, unless you are out racing, live in an extremely hot climate and sit in traffic a lot, or have other problems that cause your car to run at or above the 9:00 (e.g. lazy thermostat), then you probably won't see a level on the gauge. Driving around town temperature is typically not hot enough to register a level unless you're at (or close) to an overfill.

dhc905

Got it thanks Vandit. So it's supposed to sit at the empty level all the time until I get out on the highway and run it for a while (last time I saw the gauge move off of the empty)?

backitoff

To the OP. Along with the excellent advice above, if you live in the UK or similar climate, I would change the domed nuts and the sender cover plate. On my car the cover plate was partially rotted away, and the domed nuts were in pretty bad shape. I also smeared the oil tank / sender mating faces with a smear of Hylomar. First assembly I had a slight weep even though everything was clean and OEM new.

HiWind

Best advice I can give is don't overfill it! Per Vandit above ... And welcome! Pic please!