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Now before anyone from the South start taking the **** about why I might need AC up in the chilly North The AC has not worked since I got the car and when it was in recently for the Geo I asked them to charge it up.
The conversation moved onto whether it had been converted for the latest gas (R12 ?) or is their a different one, so could anyone tell me what`s involved to convert and any idea of costs ?
R12 is the old type refrigerant, suppose to be extra bad for the atmosphere, not easily obtainable, and very expensive. R134a is the modern refrigerant, not very expensive, very available.
I'm not sure how to tell if your system has been converted, but I believe companies (maybe Griffiths.com) sell conversion kits.
My '91 was already converted when I got it last year.
Now before anyone from the South start taking the **** about why I might need AC up in the chilly North The AC has not worked since I got the car and when it was in recently for the Geo I asked them to charge it up.
The conversation moved onto whether it had been converted for the latest gas (R12 ?) or is their a different one, so could anyone tell me what`s involved to convert and any idea of costs ?
This is all assuming the system is working
Gaz
air cons only for us soft southerners....keeps the hair gel from melting...will ask what's involved at one of my garages tommorow for you!!
Its been a few years since I needed gel, however the ball and chain uses a multitude of substances that may catch fire or burst through the ozone at any moment
If its gonna cost a few bucks I wont bother, but interested to see whats involved.
The size of the manifold gauge connection valves are bigger on the compressor for R134a than they are for R-12. At least they should be if it was converted.
Assuming the AC is not working because you have a refrigerant leak, part of the process you could consider to fixing the issue is converting to R134a (if it has not been done so yet). Easy way to tell if it has been converted would be a blue colored sticker in the engine bay stating so. Next would inspecting the service ports on the compressor's manifolds where the AC hoses attach. In good times service ports have caps covering them, typically (RED or BLUE) if it was converted to R134a outside the dealership. However the color of the cap is not critical for the moment. Unscrew the service cap. If there are threads on the outside of the service port chances are the vehicle is using original R12 refrigerant. If the threads are on the inside of the service port then its likely R134a refrigerant. Other resources for determining the type of refrigerant are old service records or meet up with a fella Porsche fan at a local pub whom is knowing of the subject and reward them with a pint of Bass.
To convert is rather simple, a good R134a conversion kit includes a new receiver drier, ester oil, o-rings, R134a charge port adapters, conversion sticker and decent instructions. You could do part of the work in 1/2 day and have a good repair facility evacuate, charge with R134a and test for leaks.
There are benefits other than keeping gel on the hair when it comes to AC. One of the top of my head is better defogging of windows as AC air is drier than ambient outside air.
Thanks for the input so far gents (Except for John I`l have a bottle of what he`s having )
Going by Giffiths last post if I follow I have the old connectors which makes sense
Are these not standard fit on most cars as I`m fairly sure these are the same as whatĴs on my ML which gets charged every year at kwik fit oe do I now have 2 cars that need converted.
First drain the r12 and evacuate the moisture for 15 min. While evacuating ur vacuum should be consistent at 25-30hg. If not u have a leak somewhere. An easier way to tell is to fill the system with nitrogen and get a refrigerant leak detector. Just did a r134 conversion since r134 is easier to find. R12 has been proven to be cooler though.
Also forgot to mention to check the pressure on the high and low side to factory specs
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