Recently when on idle and the full beam is switched on the car will stall.
It will also sometimes stall at junctions when the clutch is pressed.
Any ideas what it could be?

dirty isv?
also just to add that the idle is stable otherwise and when i connected the hammer it was 840-880rpm

 

clean ISV
hammer adaptation
steve wong chip
coils
fuel filter
fuel tank cap
check for induction air leaks

there is probably a few more that I forgot ... . you can search my old threads ... after trying everything, I then tried the easiest option last .. the hammer adaptation ... problem solved.

 

My recent experience with my ISV is cleaning it helped, but when it's cold(meaning winter time) it searches for idle until it's really warmed up. Now it's been much warmer here (actual air temp) no issue at all.

alternator(check voltage)
battery
light bulb short?

Does it stall when you do anything else(radio, a/c....anything needing causing an additional power draw)

 

Just cleaned the isv, changed the dme relay and did a hammer system adaptation- still the same.
Distributor belt is also okay.

Yes does it even with other additional power draw.

One thing i have noticed is that the primary coil is a Bosch made in Brazil, could this be the problem?

 

anyone have any suggestions?

 

Is your idle micro switch working ??

 

seems to be as it clicks

 

As per Chakka's suggestion above it might be worth giving the battery a charge up, do a system adaption and then try it.

p.s. anything else we should know like do you have LWF?

 

Sounds like you have a Hammer . . . have you tested the idle micro switch operation against that?

My WOT switch is bad (as told by the Hammer), but it still "clicks" when I depress it.

 

Battery is charged up as i have a ctek connected to it at night.
Done a few hammer system adaptations as i have a hammer.
As far as i know it does not have a LWF but it had a clutch change at an OPC in 2006 (56k miles) mileage is now 112k miles.

Went out for a drive tonight and it seems to be getting worse in that when driving at slow speed below 2000 rpm it will just cut out, it will start back immediately.

Could it be an intermitant coil problem.
Primary coil is a silver can that was changed in 2000 and the secondary appears to be an original from new (car is a 1990 model) black can.

 

Not yet as i am still learning how to use the hammer properly. Any tips?

 

Under "input signals", "idle contact"

Have you checked the distributor belt?

 

checked the idle switch with the hammer and it is okay as it is changing from closed to open when accelerator pedal is pressed.

distributor belt is okay as the rotor arm on the secondary does not move when manually trying to turn also it starts on either coil.

 

this sounds like more than a simple idle bump/stall like many have experienced.

but you might like to describe the problem in more detail. do you mean when the clutch is depressed? or just coasting along the engine loses power? what is the significance of 2000rpm? so the car doesnt stall if you push the clutch in when the revs are at 3000rpm? confused. anyway .. dont answer these questions .. just start again and describe accurately.

 

What about a vacuum leak? Could that cause these symptoms?