I've seen bits and pieces of this posted but here is my contribution to Rennlist. Very easy to do. My old filter was marked July 2003, not the install date, but the date of the filter so thankfully its not the original.

Tools needed:
Two 19mm wrenches (3/4" will do)
17mm wrench
Screwdriver
Towels/rags to absorb fuel
Quick grip clamp to help hold power steering line out of the way

0) Disconnect the battery don't need sparks around gas fumes. Use spark free safe task lighting.

1)Remove air filter box (shown below)

2) The fuel filter is easily visible behind the air filter box on the right side of the car. There is an arrow indicating fuel flow direction but the fittings are such that you can't screw this up and change the direction upon re-install. First loosen the fittings that face the rear of the car, this requires two 19mm wrenches (I only had one so I used a 3/4" wrench which is 19.05mm). See photos below to show which one to hold and which one to loosen. Just crack it loose so you can turn by hand, do not loosen it up completely yet or gas will flow out everywhere. These are normal fittings, clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen.

3)There is a flexible power steering hose that is right in the way of the fittings facing the front of the car. I clamped this hose out of the way using a quick grip clamp (see photo below) so it was easy to work on. You hold the 19mm fitting and loosen the 17mm fitting. Again just crack it loose.

4)Now place paper towels or rags under the filter and loosen the fitting by hand that faces the front of the car. No fuel flowed out on this side for me. Then loosen the fitting that faces the rear of the car and make sure you have rags underneath. A bit of fuel comes out but it stops quickly. Remove fuel soaked rags and replace with some fresh ones.

5)Now with your screwdriver loosen the clamp that holds the fuel filter in place and you can remove the filter.

6)Place the new fuel filter into the clamp and with your hand reconnect both fittings on the front and rear of the filter (do not tighten down yet with your wrenches). Note the direction of the arrow to maintain same direction, that is the only way it will connect.

7)Tighten the fuel filter clamp with your screwdriver and then tighten both fittings with your wrenches.

8)With a sharpie or paint pen mark the fuel filter with the month/year so you know upon re-inspection exactly when it was last changed.

 

Good thread. I have a filter that has been chillin' in the garage since April that I need to get around to installing.

 

Great thread, Ricardo!

Marc

 

Good stuff. Always love some DIY. I might make a detailed one I get around to changing my tranny/diff fluids.

 

easier said that done.
i spent 2 hours on this step.
the angle with your arms makes this step very difficult.
gave up and paid the mechanic about $20 to change the filter for me

 

Thenk You!!

Last week i bought fuel filter. Now i exactly know how to repace it.

Great job, RicardoD

 

Thanks for documenting the procedure!
These type of DIYs really help.

 

It was probably easier for him since it appears his filter had been previously replaced within the past decade.

 

Is there any need to bleed the pressure out of the fuel filter/lines prior to replacememt?

 

I didn't bleed anything and was preparing for the worst, but Vandit is probably right, the last filter change probably made things easier in terms of breaking loose the connections. The location makes it difficult to get huge leverage on the wrenches and you should not overtighten these types of connections.

 

Let the vehicle sit for maybe an hour if you've driven it. No need to depressurize the system. The only time I've ever seen a dramatic spray of fuel is when a line burst on me while the engine was running. Fuel pressure drops pretty quickly after shutting the vehicle off.

 

Ricardo - Great write up. I've found that having a set of flare nut wrenches helps on the stubborn connections.

 

17mm flare nut wrench could really help, the double 19mm rear facing connections seems easier to access and get some leverage on. I've got a set of flare nuts for the brake bleeding work but my set doesn't go that large.

 

My set didn't either. After changing my fuel filter the first time and struggling not to damage the fittings, I went and bought a both a 17mm and 19mm flare nut wrenches. Its made it "feel" much safer and easier to change the filter. Certainly not mandatory but nice to have.

 

Bumping an old thread. Did this and all went smoothly a few days ago. Then went to go start her up this morning and she won’t start. Lights all go on the dash and hear the engine turn barely and then silent. Car was sitting for a few weeks total before this. Any suggestions? I left the ignition in the on position for a few mins before trying to start her thinking that would run the fuel pump and fill the filter.