911Jetta

I've had my car up on all four jackstands a couple times. The problem is, I usually just select a mid to lower jackstand setting when it's up in the air. I'd like to get the car even higher as I attempt my upcoming valve adjustment.

- I'll start by driving the front up some homemade 2x6 to lift the front a little.
- Then jack the engine by the case center line. (thanks Wevo MMs)
- Install the two rear jacks - at the preferred elevated level.
- This is the point that's new to me, and suggested by Cactus on the 993 forum (https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=19642)
- Remove the rubber drain ports and place a (padded) 2x6x24" board under the pan behind the front bumper, lifting the whole front of the car and allowing me to place the jackstands at their maximum point.

Looks like a great way to get the car all the way up on the jackstands. (thanks Cactus)
Has anyone done this before? Concerns/suggestions?

springer3

I have always used the rear jack pads to raise the entire side, and they put the jack stands on the front corners. Cribbing under the rear wheel raises the rear of the car for later jacking.

I do not use the engine to raise the rear end, but to each his own.

Once the rear wheels are on cribbing, I can get the jack engaged on the round boss in the trailing arm. That lets the rear be raised enough to get the stands under the rear jack pads.

mojorizing

I have a system to jack my car. I have a mill and lathe - using those I made what is known as a "cross beam adapter". It's a section of 4"x2" heavy wall tubing with slots milled to accept the jack stands, and a center hole to accept a boss in place of the rubber pad and circular plate on the hyd. jack.



The car is backed onto ramps - the nylon straps passing under the front tires keep these ramps from being pushed back as the car drives up the ramp. The lug nuts are loosened at this point.



The car is lifted with the adapter - wood blocks are between the beam and the car rear jack points. The jacks are put in place and the hyd. jack is removed.




The front end is lifted as you mention (cactus method) - hyd. jack pushing on a piece of wood pushing on the pan. My car is missing the front jack points (on the work list) so I put the jacks on the mounting points on the front suspension.

Henrik964

- Remove the rubber drain ports and place a (padded) 2x6x24" board under the pan behind the front bumper, lifting the whole front of the car and allowing me to place the jackstands at their maximum point

Any pictures of this??

mojorizing

Here's the cactus method w/ pics
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...p-a-993-a.html

ja78911sc

That is a great design on the rear!!! I hate jacking the rear up on the case. Add this to my "to do list".

You could go one step further and weld on plugs that could be inserted in the jack ports vs. the wood.

Thanks for sharing.........

DobermanDad

Gonna bring up an old thread. Can someone confirm if the cactus method works on a 964? Specifically the front.

onceover

Yep, do it all the time

DobermanDad

Cool, Thank you

Goughary

Wait. There should be drain plugs sticking down from the pan under the front of your car.. If they are there, careful to position the wood so as not to damage them. I always lift the front of mine this way and have never had an issue. Just be careful of the rubber tubes...

newsboy

I made some lifting bars a few years ago. Used 2" 1/4" wall square tubing, with a 3" x 3" 1/2" metal square welded on each end to match the location of the jacking points. So the bars go front to back. Glued some rubber on the squares.
Low profile jack fits under them. I raise the car in steps to get to the full height,raising the jack stands as a safety as I lift. Then place jack stands under the bars at the final height and lower the car on to them.
No problem lifting both sides at the same time

Derek911

(Bringing the dead back to life)
Anyone have an opinion on leaving the rubber drains Off on the front end undercarriage? They only seem to be directing any fluids from a very limited space. I assume they are there to keep any fluid off of the undertray, but what is the advantage of leaving them there vs taking them Off? I used the Cactus method of jacking up the car and just wondering if replacing the plugs are necessary.

Goughary

Derek what's the cactus method?

I lift with a two foot 2x8 under the front. I have had the drain plugs in and out. Scraped them out again, and now they need replacing again...I say have them in, but if you don't do a lot of rain driving then it doesn't matter at all right?

I also have front trunk carpet, so it's important to get the water out if it gets in there since there isn't airflow to dry it all out...

Derek911

That's the Cactus method. The 2x6 up front. I guess you are already using it.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...p-a-993-a.html

To me it would seem that moisture would still drain without the tubes. There is still a hole there for moisture to escape. Unless the tube pushes up on something and allows room for drainage.

Jeff777