Cactus

So this question is asked over and over so I will do my part to help some peeps since so many have helped me. I will keep it short but sweet. Things needed....
4 -2x6x24 Make sure they are no shorter....more on this later.
4 - ESCO flat top stands
1 - Low profile jack. I got mine at Costco for $99 and it works great.
1-5 Hockey pucks.

First thing to do is drive the front wheels up on 2 of the 2x6x24" boards and make sure you pull all the way up to the front of the board. Reason is when you jack the back up it pulls the car backward.

A small detail I did but not necessary was bevel the edge to make driving onto the board easier. Next throw a hockey puck on the jack pad and place under the engine as shown (people in Switzerland are screwed)


Jack up high enough to get the stands under the rear and set the rear down.

Next go up front and remove the two rubber drains sticking down. Now place a 2x6x24" board on the jackpad (without the puck this time) and place under the pan behind the front bumper as shown

Now place the front stands in place and lower the car. All done and if you want to go higher just repeat the process while raising the stands each time.

A final detail is placing a hockey puck on the top of each stand which makes the contact smaller allowing more clearance for removing the undertrays. Hope this helps.

vincer77

Thanks Cactus, that does look quicker than the other method i've used.

P-daddy

I've always done the front-first teeter totter method. Will give this a try next time. Thanks

Edward

I've never jacked the front via a plank. I've always used only the jacking points and the engine case. Exactly what part of the car is resting on the front plank, anywho? I don't think those are proper load-bearing points as are the prescribed jacking pads ...is it structurally kosher for the front end of the car to be "pushed up" where you rest the wood?

Edward

tommyg

Very Kosher. This is nothing more than a first class lever...and with the positioning of the axis (jackstands) very close to the resistance (engine) it makes it much easier for the force (Cactus Costco Jack) to do its' job. I use a towel wrapped around a 30" 2x4 when applying the force to cushion against the pan.

Cactus

Do you mean placing a stand under one side in front then do the other side? I could never get up the nerve to do it this way. I am comfortable doing it the way I described now because I have done it so much now. I just need a lift!!!

swmic

+993

NC TRACKRAT

I, too, endorse the "Cactus" method. In order to keep the boards from sliding while driving up on them, I've adhered some of the black stair tread anti-slip strips to the undersides. Also, have taken some scrap carpet and tacked it to the front cross board to avoid any abrasion. I've found that it will fit in between the drain tubes without removing same.

600RR

I've found that a Sharks puck is much more secure than a Flyers. At least until the final step where Western Conf. pucks seem to fail.

I use an Autometric jacking block http://p-car.com/diy/jacktowpoint/ and when the front starts to creep as Cactus stated, it puts diagonal force on the puck. I have had a well-used puck split because of this. My solution was to start with both the front and the back wheels on 2x6 (or 2x8) and put a 2x8 under the jack to keep it from creeping. This keeps the front from creeping and the puck flat against the jacking block... or I guess I could have used a Flyers puck.

Michaelc

Thanks Cactus, great write up!

P-daddy

Yes exactly. I place my jack at the rear jacking point and lift the side high enough to place jackstand under the front. Then repeat on the other side. It's quite nerve racking, to be honest. But that's the only way I have seen done on RL. I def like your method better. Thanks Cactus.

ppressle

A variation of the Cactus method: Rear is the same, but for the front, use a hockey puck on one of the front jacking points and jack there. The front is so light and with the rear on stands, the whole front comes up. Then place a jack stand on front jacking point on the opposite side of the car. Remove the jack, and jack on the aluminum front sway bar pivot location to get the second jack stand in place up front. You can see the cast aluminum housings next to the plastic cover.

I also put some magnets into a hockey puck to cause it to stay on the car on front jacking point, which makes this way easier.

911Dave

I like this method just fine as long as the car isn't lowered too much or your jack doesn't have a low enough profile, or is not long enough to reach the engine jacking point without hitting the rear bumper. This is the problem I have, especially when the front is raised up on the 2x4 first. My jack is too short and not low enough.

My method is as follows:

1. Use the rear side jacking point to raise up one side of the car just enough to put stacked 2x8's under both the front and the rear tires. The stacked 2-bys give you about 3.5" of lift.
2. Lower back down so both front and rear tires are resting on the 2x8's.
3. Do the same on the other side.
4. Now you have enough room on both ends of the car to get your jack under there. Raise the rear under the engine and place the car on jack stands.
5. Raise the front using the method Cactus described and set on jack stands.
6. Lower it back down in reverse order.

MM993

Thanks Cactus!! perfect step by step pictures!

Mark in Baltimore

When I read the thread title and saw that the OP was Cactus, this is what I thought would be inside: