'93 C4 Current Draw
#1
Track Day
Thread Starter
'93 C4 Current Draw
I have a '93 C4 which has a current draw on the battery of about 110mA. I tried removing each fuse, one at a time, thinking this would isolate it. However, this did not isolate the current draw. Does anyone have any tips on where to look next?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#6
Rennlist Member
My driver side door switch is sticky and sometimes the windows can still be activated after I've taken the keys out. I just open the passenger door to cancel this function.
For comparison, the least amount of current draw that I've been able to measure is 18.5 mA. Opening the glove box with its light caused the draw to go up to 225 mA. Opening the doors (cabin lights off) or the engine lid (light bulb removed) caused the draw to go up to 53.3 mA.
I only drive my car once a week so I have a quick disconnect on the negative terminal of my battery as I've had too many instances of a flattened battery. I haven't noticed any DME problems that some people have mentioned when disconnecting the battery for an extended period.
For comparison, the least amount of current draw that I've been able to measure is 18.5 mA. Opening the glove box with its light caused the draw to go up to 225 mA. Opening the doors (cabin lights off) or the engine lid (light bulb removed) caused the draw to go up to 53.3 mA.
I only drive my car once a week so I have a quick disconnect on the negative terminal of my battery as I've had too many instances of a flattened battery. I haven't noticed any DME problems that some people have mentioned when disconnecting the battery for an extended period.
#7
I drive about once a week also & just plug in the battery tender when back in the garage rather than disconnecting the neg. Saves any re-learning the DME needs to do each time after disconnect.
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#8
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No fuse makes a difference? Something is not right. Do you have any aftermarket items (stereo, amp, radar detector, alarm, etc) that use electricity? Could you have a separate circuit somewhere?
#9
Rennlist Member
Normal current draw in a 964 with ignition off is 50 to 70 mA. (0.05A) An aftermarket alarm can introduce an additional 5 to 50mA.
When measuring, note that open doors will activate the interior lights as well as a relay for enabling the power windows. Also, an open bonnet and/or engine lid will activate the lights there too.
After ignition off the CCU with fan will continue to run for 1 to 10 minutes. (approx 500mA)
An unlocked car will also have the OBD LCD with light turned on in the tachometer.
Therefore, measure the current with all interior/bonnet/engine lights off, lock the doors, and wait for the CCU to turn off. You might consider opening the windows first to avoid having problems getting in due to a problem with immobilizer or similar.
A value of 100-200mA or so can indicate that some of the above mentioned points are active.
If the CCU does not turn off (0.5A) you may have a problem with an internal transistor. It's an easy fix for an electronic wiz. Have a look here: www.ccu.tore.bergvill.com
Best regards,
Tore
When measuring, note that open doors will activate the interior lights as well as a relay for enabling the power windows. Also, an open bonnet and/or engine lid will activate the lights there too.
After ignition off the CCU with fan will continue to run for 1 to 10 minutes. (approx 500mA)
An unlocked car will also have the OBD LCD with light turned on in the tachometer.
Therefore, measure the current with all interior/bonnet/engine lights off, lock the doors, and wait for the CCU to turn off. You might consider opening the windows first to avoid having problems getting in due to a problem with immobilizer or similar.
A value of 100-200mA or so can indicate that some of the above mentioned points are active.
If the CCU does not turn off (0.5A) you may have a problem with an internal transistor. It's an easy fix for an electronic wiz. Have a look here: www.ccu.tore.bergvill.com
Best regards,
Tore