RicardoD

Guys,

I could use some help here. In the process of servicing my 1990 C4 for the front diff fluid I noticed a torn inner CV boot. So I ordered the $10 repair kit from Pelican which is very nice.

The most helpful thread is this one:
Front CV Boot Replacement

EDIT: please note that before you drop the strut, remove the sway bar link bolt as that totally loosens up the suspension and will make things much easier as you follow through this thread.

I am using the approach where you remove the allen head bolts for the CV joint, then remove the front strut upper bolts in the trunk to get clearance between the CV joint and the front diff. I then popped off the inner gold cap and removed the circlip. That worked great. But my inner CV joint is not just "popping off" as it has for others. For the rear inners I have seen gear puller method for stuck CV joints but doesn't look like I have the space to do that here (see pictures below). Any tips on removing this any other way?

I think I am at the point where I need to remove the half-shaft completely. From the thread I linked to above looks like all I have to do is remove the 32mm axle nut and maybe the sway bar drop link and I can remove the half shaft without tearing into the suspension any more.

I am looking for tips on removing the axle nut, I do have air tools, and an impact wrench. What's the best way to remove this 300 something ft-lb torqued bolt? I think I need to heat it up with a torch then have at it with my impact wrench. How do you keep the hub from spinning during this process?

When I'm all done I will write up a clear procedure to help others.

Marc Shaw

To get the axle nut off for the rear, I used a long 3/4" socket set and a 32mm socket. I stopped the hub from spinning by putting the wheel on and lowering the car down to "jam" the wheel against the floor. One side came off pretty easily while the other side I had to use a piece of exhaust pipe on the socket as an extension.

I'm looking forwards to your front CV DIY as I plan to do that soon too.

Marc
p.s. Oh, and I think it is 339 ft-lbs.

-nick

I don't have any tips for pulling the inner cv off the shaft in situ. However, you can always drive to a nearby shop, have them loosen the nut with an air-impact and retorque to 100ft-lbs or so. Then very gently drive home.

I used a lot of heat (MAP gas torch) on the nut, then an electric impact on mine. I had to hold the impact trigger down for probably 60 seconds before it began spinning the nut off.

Either way, you'll need a method to re-torque. Divide 339 by your weight, that number is how many feet of pipe you need over your breaker bar with you standing on the end of it.

Have fun! Messiest job ever...

dfinnegan

I did the 339 / weight trick and used a pipe extension on my cheater bar. I aimed for 330 to get me to a friends place where he brought home a torque wrench from work that would do the proper 339. I was within 10 ftp lbs on both sides . . . shocking, really.

RicardoD

Physics is amazing that way, no fancy tools required, if you put the right weight on the correct length of bar to achieve the proper torque. I think i am going to go the 3/4" drive route when its time to put it back together. I got a MAP gas torch and a 32mm 1/2" drive 6 sided impact socket for my impact gun. Now I just need time!

stay tuned....

Vandit

When I did this job on my C2 I used a 1/2" 18" breaker bar and the 2' handle off of my floor jack. I had my lady friend sit in the car and firmly press the brake pedal while I put all of my 150lbs of body weight and force on it. They came loose after a few goes.

Vandit

RicardoD

So I need to reattach the strut, figure out a way to lock the hub, I seen people jam a bar between the studs and the ground, such that it can't rotate, or put the tire back on and lower the car, but I don't want the tire/wheel in the way when I am heating up nut, then I will hit it with my impact gun (which is rated to 425ft-lbs). I did hit it with PB blaster on Saturday night. I think the heat should get it to the point where my impact gun works.

Vandit

If you have a big enough breaker bar and can keep the axle from rotating, you can probably skip the heating the nut step.

RicardoD

Vandit, but then I don't get to use my new torch! What kind of crazy idea is that. I must use this thing.

-nick

"I got a MAP gas torch and a 32mm 1/2" drive 6 sided impact socket"

This should be a country song

Heat helps - a lot! Sounds like you're set.

tbennett017

Remember to heat the nut.. not the shaft. And it might take a couple heat cycles...

hawk911

you still need to keep the axle shaft from spinning. Wonder how you accomplish this. Could be useful on my other DD cars, too

Vandit

It's easy to accomplish if you make it the first step in the teardown process, either by leaving the tire on the ground when you do it, or by having someone depress the brake pedal while the car is up in the air, wheel off.

If you wait until you've got it all torn down, you lose all your leverage, literally lol

FeralComprehension

I dunno.... mine came off pretty easy with just the impact gun. IIRC I did run the pressure up to 100-110 psi.