DWS964

THANKS for the info, Ricardo and Marc.
I think I have found a set of axles, but the ABS wheel has the count for a 993 (I think the axle was set up for a specific application... another story).
So, can the ABS wheel be changed out on the axle using my 964 ABS wheel? is it part of the outer CV assembly?
Great thread, Ricardo - Keep up the good work.

RicardoD

ok, to wrap things up

Note: Its much easier to put 6 inner CV joint bolts and "clamp washers" onto the CV joint before you start putting the half-shaft back in. (don't ask me how I know this)

18)lubricate the axle nut end of the half shaft with Optimoly HT (copper anti-seize grease, I used Lubromoly LM508)

19)Insert the half shaft back into the hub just enough screw on the axle nut a few threads. Do NOT tighten down the axle nut at this point, you just want to hold it there and have plenty of "length" to the axle so you can easily mate it up to the diff

20)Carefully align the inner CV joint to the diff, and screw back in the allen head bolts and CV "washer clamps", you do a bolt at a time, then rotate the hub, and move on to the next bolt. There is enough suspension looseness and combined with step 19 you should have no problem re-mating the CV joint to the diff

21)You are now ready to torque the inner CV joint bolts to the diff. I made a tool for this so I could use my torque wrench. You need a long 6mm allen head socket. So I purchased an extra one and with my dremel cut off wheel made this tool. I then used a 6mm socket and my torque wrench to get this to work (see photo) I then torqued each CV joint bolt, alternating in a star pattern like you would when you change a tire. My "964 Technical Data without Guesswork" says 35Nm (26 ft-lbs) for this, or at least it does for the rear inner CV joints and should be the same here. I used a bit more torque to compensate for the twist experienced by the long allen head tool.

22)I then tightened the axle nut as best I could by hand (and will torque later with the car on the ground), put the strut back in place and re-connected the sway bar link. You are supposed to buy a new M10 lock nut (46Nm) on the sway bar link every time you undo this joint and I did so.

References I used:

Porsche PET parts catalog PDF
Sunset Porsche for parts at a great discount

By the way, if this all seems so smooth and easy, like I am some kind of Pro, trust me I am not, and my procedure is a result of some trial and error and dumb moves on my part. Use this as your guide so you don't repeat my mistakes.

pi5tolpete

Great thread. I'm tackling the front inner boot replacement this winter. I broke a 1/2" ratcheting breaker bar trying to loosen the hub nuts. Then I borrowed a 3' strong bar with 3/4" drive and a deep impact socket - blocked the wheels so the car didn't roll into the garage door and - presto! Hub nut is loosened enough now for me to do the rest of the suspension work and remove the wheel.

pi5tolpete

Anything particularly special with this lock-nut? Any tabs or nylon insert to actually "lock" it in place? Can I not just buy an M10x1.0 nut at my hardware store of the right hardness?

Do you have a part number? (think I found the part number - 900 910 031 01)

RicardoD

Do you have the Parts Catalog for the 964? It is available here from Porsche
http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessori...artscatalogue/

Part number is 900 910 031 09 for the M10 lock nut.

pi5tolpete

I have the PET yes. But what I read is a different part number than you are suggesting. I thought it was the lower sway bar drop link nut. No? Edit. I was ready to replace the drop link nut. Not necessary. I see I have to replace the ball joint lock nut-correct?
Edit - still confused. What illustration number and item number in the PET?

pi5tolpete

Ok. I found the trouble. I was using the parts diagrams on autoatlanta and it showed the other nut number

pi5tolpete

So, from the attached picture below, what is the order of items that need to be loosened/removed?


(I will edit if incorrect)
1-remove axle nut
9-remove brake duct
11-remove nut/bolt and swing drop link up and out of the way
15 - remove nuts and drop strut
XX-remove 6 CV bolts and pull away from transmission drive
14-???
remove half shaft
done?

RicardoD

Read through the links I referenced in my first post. You have to drop the hole strut to avoid having to use that hammer and pickle bar. I did not include that part in my instructions.

Goughary

Yes. The locknut is a one time use nut. It gets tighter toward the end of the threads as you put it on, and once it's been in place, this becomes ineffective. The RS used this locknut plus another nut cranked down on it. I wouldn't do it another way other than as suggested by the manufacturer since it's really a safety issue. We just don't ever routinely re-check this nut an it's torque...so if it decides to back out, you'd never know...

pi5tolpete

Well, thanks to Rennlist and its supporters, I was able to remove the left front axle in about one hour. However, the right side took considerably longer due to one of the transmission bolts being stuck and rounding out inside the M6 Allan head bolt. So out came the Dremel and 30 minutes later, the bolt head was off and the half shaft out. Thinking I was going to have a bear of a time removing the bolt shaft from the front diff (and not being able to lock the differential because both halfshaft for now off), I bit my teeth and grabbed on with my vice grips. Must have been the heat transfer during grinding cause it spun out with my fingers. Both out in 2.5 hours. Now for the teardown and rebuild.
Peter

pi5tolpete

Can I ask how many are replacing the axle nut when they do this job? Appears to be suggested to do so in the workshop manual, but at $36 each!?! I see that there is a rear axle nut which is cheaper at $11 each. difference? I am referring to pelican prices.

Goughary

just an FYI - Ive posted this before - but it's crazy helpful to have this tool for the axle nuts...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...3947_200623947

I can remove and torque the axle nuts with a half inch drive breaker and torque wrench with some 1/2-3/4-/1 inch adapters....makes the idea of standing on a four foot breaker bar and guessing seem ridiculous.

as for replacing the axle nuts - the axle will not pull out if your axle nuts back out...and the wheel wont fall off...but, that said, after it's been used, it is no longer a "locking nut". there is reason the torque spec is so high. and further - there is a reason that on the RS, they added a second locking nut over this one with a torque of another approx 120 ft-lbs...these things apparently can back out. maybe its the heat change with the high friction..idk. but I have seen a few threads over the years from track guys complaining the nuts had backed out on them....so for me, and just my opinion, I would, and did, spend the 36 dollars for the axle nut. And yes it sucks that every little part on these cars would cost less than half it they were nissans, but you are saving a ton by doing it yourself...so there is some solace in that...

anyway - check out the torque multiplier at northern tool - I bought mine on sale a couple years ago for like 80 dollars...

pi5tolpete

2 front half shafts of a C4 done tonight. I notice that the only items you get to use from the Lobro kit is the boot, grease and the clamps. The gold end cap and the circlip don't fit our cars.

Goughary

Funny enough, I switched to snow tires yesterday, and saw that both my front inner cv boots are torn as well. So this thread couldn't have come at a better time...