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steering boot replacement

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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 10:09 PM
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Default steering boot replacement

My 94 has a torn steering boot at the rack....I was wondering what is the easiest method of replacement....will the new boot fit over the attachment at the knuckle when separated or do I have to unscrew it at the adjustment section.....would rather not upset the current setting since doing so well.
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Old Oct 11, 2011 | 11:19 PM
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If I do remember correctly, you need to take the outer tie rod end off to change the boot. An alignment is part of the game. Use a tape measure to get in in the ball park.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 12:41 AM
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If you disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle/axle and if the boot fits over the end then why would you have to redo the alignment if the tie rod is placed back into and bolted down into the same attachment for the axle. There is not a Porsche dealer nearby and given I have seen too many screw up on porsche alignment I would rather not mess with any alignment change/check. If the smaller hole in the new boot can go over the tie rod end/fitting then why mess with an alignment "check".
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by M3Porsche964
If you disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle/axle and if the boot fits over the end then why would you have to redo the alignment if the tie rod is placed back into and bolted down into the same attachment for the axle.
But if the knuckle end and ball joint are joined together by the tie rod (LH and RH threads), how can you disconnect from the knuckle without "screwing" up the alignment - am I missing something?

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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 08:52 AM
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I replaced my steering rack boots. I tried slipping them off without undoing the tie rods. The boot does not fit over the ball joint. You need to disassemble the tie rod. While some people have made careful measurements and reassembled without a new alignment. I didn't want to take the chance to screwing up my tires. So I had another alignment done.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocket Rob
I replaced my steering rack boots. I tried slipping them off without undoing the tie rods. The boot does not fit over the ball joint. You need to disassemble the tie rod. While some people have made careful measurements and reassembled without a new alignment. I didn't want to take the chance to screwing up my tires. So I had another alignment done.
+1. I did the measurement thing and my alignment still was off by quit a bit to where my steering wheel was off center. Do both sides while its apart.
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Old Oct 12, 2011 | 07:09 PM
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There is a boot available which will stretch over the outer joint. I put some links in this thread.
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 06:42 PM
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2 questions:

1) How do I push the boot into place on the rack side? Do I need to remove panels to get access to the rack or can I just push them in from the fenderwell?

2) If there is some fluid/oil dripping (maybe a couple of drops) after I remove the old boots, does that mean my rack is leaking and on its way to needing a rebuild?

Thanks.
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 08:09 PM
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how to get the boot on? It's very fiddly. I had the bottom panel off and it took me a while. But don't give up, it's doable.

I would worry about a few drips. A full boot, I would.
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 11:26 AM
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A word of warning to future readers.... I recently replaced both my tierods and tierod boots. Upon assembly I found that the ID of the outside end of the boot wasn't the same as the OD of the new tierods- too big! In my case I cut some short lengths of hose that I had in stock and slipped them over the tierods before putting on the boots, and then used zipties to snug the boot over the hose section. Admittedly, a little cludgy but it gets the job done...
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by FeralComprehension
A word of warning to future readers.... I recently replaced both my tierods and tierod boots. Upon assembly I found that the ID of the outside end of the boot wasn't the same as the OD of the new tierods- too big! In my case I cut some short lengths of hose that I had in stock and slipped them over the tierods before putting on the boots, and then used zipties to snug the boot over the hose section. Admittedly, a little cludgy but it gets the job done...
I noticed this yesterday when I first went to test fit the new boots. Then I noticed that there's a rubber piece that fits inside the end of the boot that needs to be transferred from the old boot to the new boot.



I haven't actually installed these just yet, just removed the old boots. I still need to install this piece onto the new boots, then I guess remove that lower aero panel to get them all installed properly on the rack.
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 01:51 PM
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You guys are making it way too hard.

Just get the front off the ground remove the under tray and wheels.

Seperate the outter tierod end, and cut or pull the old boot off. The round gromet should stay on the shaft.

Use hot water and soap to get the new boot over the tierod end and slide, then you just gotta work the boot around the rack lip with some muscle.
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Old Jan 3, 2024 | 03:54 PM
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Any grease needs to be applied to any part before or after this steering boot replacement ? Thank you in advanced .
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Old Jan 4, 2024 | 05:24 AM
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I used some rubber grease. It certainly makes it easier to fit.
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Old Jan 7, 2024 | 06:20 PM
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I apologize in advanced if this question is confusing and is definitely coming from a novice ( me )

The boot on the passengers side of the steering rack is protecting ?
Does the wide side ( not the narrow side facing the outer wheel ) of this boot ( passenger side ) need to be zip tied or open to elements?
Do parts in which this boot is protecting need to be covered and soaked in grease ?

thank you for your insight !!!!





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