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I ordered a pair of the 999 084 634 02 nuts from Sunset. They look like the picture on Pelican, but not like what is on the car.
The nuts on the car don't have those notches.
Since Pelican doesn't have the 999 084 634 02 nuts, they say to use these:
Those look like castle nuts to me, which isn't right.
I'm so confused...
Digging up an old thread.
Both of the nuts pictured above, just like ValveFloat's car, are not the same as the OE locking nuts on my 1990. The big issue I see with the above nuts is they appear to be designed for use with a cotter pin as a locking feature.
Pelican carries the correct locking axle nut if anyone is looking for the correct nut. It is a little confusing on their website because they list the locking axle nut I purchased and they list the axle nut above in the second picture (castle nut) for 964's. The axle nuts I received from the dealer are the same as the first picture. Three different axle nuts Picture below of the OE locking axle nuts I purchased from Pelican which match my current axle nuts:
I never replaced my nuts, and wailed them back on with a impact almost 2 years ago. Bad idea.
I have been noticing a groan sometimes recently on 91' Targa and also felt my brakes a little squishy, so I went home and threw her on a lift to check brakes, and grabbed the rear tire and it flopped around a good inch. Yikes! Lesson learned. Torque correctly and don't reuse the nuts after a motor swap/new axle shaft replacement. I am lucky the wheel did not come loose. Always listen to your gut if you are like me and pound so many miles that you know when something doesnt feel right. Now to check the 91' coupe as well.
Oh and wanted to mention that the nuts above are referred to as front axle nuts on Pelican. I think they are wrong as both 964's here have the bolt in the picture above.
Update: Called dealer and looked at various resellers. It appears that Porsche is selling the castle style nut per the computer, but the expanded view on Auto Atlanta shows it still as the regular nut. The parts guy at dealer said there was no update on the part or number, so I am a bt confused. The castle style nut is also $8 verses $35 per nut. Not sure which way to go. I am leaning towards buying the castle style as Auto Atlanta calls it the new part number. Any suggestions?
Last edited by greg1990964; 01-12-2016 at 07:47 PM.
I think the castellations may tilt inward, providing the requisite 'prevailing torque' to keep the nut in place once tight. Really no different than the nuts with the clearly deformed rib around the outside rib.
I think the castellations may tilt inward, providing the requisite 'prevailing torque' to keep the nut in place once tight. Really no different than the nuts with the clearly deformed rib around the outside rib.
Yeah, and they are around 9 dollars a piece. Ordering them up now. I can wait the week as the snow is falling in Boston as I type this. Just tightening the loose one for now as not going far. I guess its 4 matic time anyways..
The locking type that we use is the type where the threads are constricted at the top of the nut. Typically this type of but is rated for reuse 15 times, but clearly Porsche isnt interested in taking chances since the hub will pull out of the bearing and your wheel will fall off if the nut comes loose.
I like the earlier type vs the new castle nut. But as long as the threads lock, all good.
Also, be sure to torque to the right spec. Nuts that break were likely over- tightened and nuts that come off are clearly under...
For me, since I was just thinking about this the other day....id like to buy the standard nuts and torque to 339 ft/lbs and then also add the carrera RS m22 lock nut with the chamfer on back that locks down over the standard nut with 147 ft/lbs. maybe I'll call sunset and order some.
are you guys using a proper 3/4 torque wrench, doing an initial torque to 150-200 lbs in the air then setting the car down, pressing on brake and torquing to the 340? Torqued properly a parabolic lock nut that has been off 1x is going to lock fine. I'm guessing improper torque spec. Also retorque after a few 100 mi.
I'd rent a wrench or borrow one, don't guess on this.
I did this on my 89 and have had no issues with them backing off.
In my experience, after properly torquing the nut, if when rechecked it moves, replace the nut. It seems like once they start creeping they don't stop. This is on a car that is tracked a lot though, if that makes a difference.
Ordered these nuts that arrived last week. I need the torque spec for these. It is isn't really clear on here. Somebody mentioned a torque value for a different nut/set up but not this nut
I am guessing the 340ft lbs is correct?
I think this torque wrench in the pic above should do the job, goes up to 600ft lbs. Ha.
Last edited by greg1990964; 01-30-2016 at 02:57 AM.
Hello all, I'm desperately in need of some help here that goes right along with this thread. First, I have a 1993 964 C4 coupe on which I discovered that my rear boots on the half-shafts were torn. So I yanked the half-shafts out and sent them away to be refurbished. Got them back (good price, good job), put them back in the car and realized that I was going to need new axle lock nuts. I went and ordered Porsche part # 999 090 010 01. When I received them they don't really look like my originals (please see pic). The brown, taller one is the original that I had to take the torch to to get it off. The difference in size has puzzled me no end, particularly since most of the Porsche dealers have the smaller (again see the pic) one to replace the originals. And, after reading through this post, I am totally confused as to whether or not I have the correct axle nut and will it stand up to the ~350 ft-lbs of torque that will be applied to it upon re-installation. Can anyone shed some light on this and unconfuse me?
many thanks. Original, taller one, is on the left. The two on the right are what I received as a replacement!
They have the newer "design" but you use the same torque so they will work just fine. But I like the original nut better because they are taller so there's more gods for the socket to grip and more threads. I have the new ones in the front.
Thanks ThomasC2, put the bolts on last night. Now all I need to do is torque them, which leads to another question. I know that the rear nuts require ~330 ft-lbs, but when I was tightening them, they seem to have bottomed out when I was just using my 18" breaker bar. This is disturbing since I know that I wasn't applying anywhere near the 330 ft-lbs, and now I'm concerned that torquing them to the 330 might strip the axle threads. Would you have any info on this? Also, seeing that you are a super user and given my lack of forum knowledge, should I post this question as a new thread?
Not to hijack this thread, but wasn't there a locking nut the rs cars used over the first nut? The inner nut was torqued to 330, and then the lock nut fit over that and was torqued to 120...iirc...
Is that lock nut available from Porsche?
Maybe that's the reason for the smaller nut they send now? I have received these smaller nuts as well, and had i never seen the larger nut, they wouldn't bug me. But they bug me. I want my big nuts...
03-28-2014, 02:56 PM
Picture below of the OE locking axle nuts I purchased from Pelican which match my current axle nuts:
Now all I need to do is torque them, which leads to another question. I know that the rear nuts require ~330 ft-lbs, but when I was tightening them, they seem to have bottomed out when I was just using my 18" breaker bar. This is disturbing since I know that I wasn't applying anywhere near the 330 ft-lbs, and now I'm concerned that torquing them to the 330 might strip the axle threads. Would you have any info on this? Also, seeing that you are a super user and given my lack of forum knowledge, should I post this question as a new thread?
