ValveFloat

I just discovered that one of my rear axle nuts was loose. I noticed this while changing wheels, with the lugs tight there was some play. I tightened the axle nut, and the play is gone, and rotating the hub feels smooth, but I am wondering if driving with the axle nut loose, (for probably a few hundred miles) would cause damage to the wheel bearing or the hub, or both?

What do you think, should I replace the wheel bearing?

Vandit

Had you been in there to do other work involving removal/reinstallation of that nut? Or did the nut come loose all on its own.

ValveFloat

I am somewhat embarrassed to say that when I replaced the axles recently I did not replace the nuts. I had been keeping an eye on them, but not closely enough.

Related to this, in the manual I noticed that there is a lock-nut for the RS. The spec is torque the main nut to 340, then the lock nut is torqued to 150 against the main nut.
Does anyone know the p/n's for the RS nuts?

Vandit

How did you torque the nut previously?

This concerns me because I'm planning on having the axles out soon and was going to rely on the "wailing on it w/ a strong impact wrench" method of getting it re-torqued.

I was looking at the part #s this morning, considering if I needed to replace the nut. I guess I should.

If someone doesn't post up the part #s, then I will when I get home.

Vandit

999 084 634 02 - lock nut M 22 X 1,5
999 090 010 09 - lock nut M 22 X 1,5 (Carrera RS)

See the attached images.

So are these parts interchangeable? What's the difference?

dfinnegan

I torqued mine with a half inch breaker bar (3/4" would be *much* better) and a length of pipe over the handle. I calculated the length and weight needed to reach the requisite torque. I then had a friend bring home a suitable torque wrench and we were both very surprised at how close I came to the correct torque.

So, if you are going to just "wail" on it, then use a breaker bar and pipe and a simple calc for your weight on the end.

Though, to be sure, a proper torque wrench is what you need! Go see a shop that has one and pay them a few bucks for tuning up your rough estimate.

ValveFloat

Vandit, I torqued the nuts to the correct torque with a torque wrench and an extension. The extension is about a little over a foot long, and goes between the torque wrench and the nut, so with the wrench set to about 220lb-ft I get 340 at the nut.
I think the first nut P/N is the correct one. If you are able to find them, post up, because I have had no luck. I remembered why I didn't replace the nuts, I couldn't find them.

Anyone have any thoughts on bearing/hub damage due to driving with the axle nut loose?

KaiB

Joe, the experienced farm redneck in me says it'll be alright in that if you suffered minor damage to either the bearing or hub race, it'll show up later - so why replace now.

If you didn't, you'll never know.

I'd pull and inspect because that's what we do with these cars - the right thing.

Makmov

They all supercede to the Carrera RS nut

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...C%20Each%20%20

Vandit

Can some of you elaborate on how you calculated the applied torque w/ a breaker bar or torque wrench?

I've got a nice torque wrench, but it tops out at 250ft/lbs.

KaiB

Put one pound on a weightless bar 250 feet long and you have it.

Or put 250 pounds on a one foot bar...or 125 pounds on a 2 foot bar.

ValveFloat

I ordered a pair of the 999 084 634 02 nuts from Sunset. They look like the picture on Pelican, but not like what is on the car.

The nuts on the car don't have those notches.
Since Pelican doesn't have the 999 084 634 02 nuts, they say to use these:

Those look like castle nuts to me, which isn't right.
I'm so confused...

Vandit

I did the CV boot job last week and reused the stock nut. I torqued it nicely w/ a big breaker bar plus cheater bar after taking it to 250lbs w/ my torque wrench.

bauerjab

Those nuts are not supposed to be re used. I suggest you get a new one and replace it.

dave964diver