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My brakes are making noise

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Old 04-19-2011, 07:03 AM
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MacFever
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Default My brakes are making noise

Hi
When I brake very lightly I hear a high pitch sound coming from the front discs
The disks and pads have been changed recently
Is there a solution ?
Thanks
Eric
Old 04-19-2011, 08:32 AM
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Rocket Rob
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What type of pads are you using? Some brake compounds make more noise than others, specifically track pads.
Old 04-19-2011, 08:43 AM
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MacFever
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I bought this car 1 month ago
The discs/pds were changed 2000 km ago
Perhaps I will have the pads changed ...
Old 04-19-2011, 09:07 AM
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Rocket Rob
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There are multiple pad types. Before swapping, how do you use the car? Street, DE, racing?

If street, you may want to read this - https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...pbr-jurid.html
Old 04-19-2011, 09:18 AM
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Our Porsche pads have a damping plate that is attached to the back of the pads and fits into the caliper piston to reduce noise. Ask the repair shop if they:

1. Peeled the old damping plate off the old pads and reused them. (OK if not damaged)
2. Wasn't sure what those things were and used new pads without the dampers.
3. Or the preferred, Fitted new damping pads on the back of the new brake pads.

Depending on which caliper piston the pad is matted with is the size that is needed, I took a couple of part numbers from the PET parts manual.

964 351 096 02 damping plate 40mm
964 351 096 01 damping plate 36mm

This link shows a picture of them.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg4.htm#item11
Old 04-19-2011, 09:38 AM
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MacFever
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I use my car only on the street
Will check out the dampening pads
Thanks
Eric
Old 04-19-2011, 09:41 AM
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sml
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I think it is time to remove my Pagid RS29 pads and save them for the track only.

The noise is unbelievable.

It is louder than the loudest trucks I have ever heard on the road!

I personally dont mind the noise, but I have other drivers horning and flashing lights because they are annoyed hence they are not really usable on the street.
Old 04-19-2011, 10:15 AM
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Frank 993 C4S
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Default Instructions for Bedding Brake Pads

Before you do anything else, please bed your brakes to add some pad material to your rotor surface. I do not use damping pads and I get no squeal. It works for my street Textar pads and my R-29 Yellow Pagids (although the R-29 Pagids need to be re-bedded after normal street use because the pad material is removed from the rotor surface):

Stoptech Brake Bedding Article by David Zeckhausen

Here you go:

When following these instructions, avoid other vehicles. Bedding is often best done early in the morning, when traffic is light, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and may respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. A police officer will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! Zeckhausen Racing does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions. Use common sense!

From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 10-15 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.

The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need only a few minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.

If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors, since the pads need time to conform to the old rotor wear pattern. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.



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