CBR786

Okay I went to change out fan bearing as it was noisy only to find I had to work with a sheared alternator shaft. Basically I managed to remove fan/ alternator assembly but looks like I might have to buy another alternator as well. The shaft which is held in place by the 12 point tool has completely rounded off so the 12 point tool will not hold it. A Allen key will not fit ether. I want to know is it possible to buy the shaft alone as my alternator is good but the shaft is fubar due to the inner part rounded off. Too make it worse I also need the little black plastic fan that bolts to the rear of the alternator ? Can that be bought separately ? Looks like I will need to buy another alternator complete with this little fan otherwise.. Any suggestions would be most welcome

scped

I was there. I purchased a rebuilt one and swapped the whole alternator. I think you will find that is the easiest (and least $$) to getting back on the road. A simple repair.

Good luck

altarchsa

Ditto.

CBR786

Hmmm might have found a solution which is a bit of a bodge and I really don't like doing this but needs must so for now I plan to cut a Allen key head bolt down & weld it in place of the female 12 point recess on the shaft assembly. This will allow me to torque up the final nut on the shaft on reassembly by using a normal Allen key to hold the shaft from spinning. The plastic cooling fan at the rear of the alternator is still required and I will start ringing breakers Monday morning for this part. I rang porsche main agent and don't sell this part unless you buy the complete alternator. Maybe I should try contacting a Bosch agent. The fan bearing will be tackled Monday sometime as well.

jimq

can this cause a imbalance of the shaft? I have no idea but thought I would throw that question out to those that might know.

crg53

A warning welding on any Allen bolt, they get very "BRITTLE" so make sure whoever does the welding, knows what they are doing.
As mentioned before, I would recommend getting a used or rebuild unit.

PS. I know you are located in UK. but HERE is an example of cost for a good used unit. No affiliation....................

dfinnegan

pelican sells a rebuilt unit, which looks like new, for another $13.

They do require a core charge.

CBR786

Hmmm some good advice. I have a friend who is good at welding he said once welded he will dremel or grind the weld down so it looks pretty and uniformed so will not look out of place. I since have found a good used unit for £100 which looks very clean I might go with that & keep the other one as a spare. I wonder what a reconditioner would do with my alternator ? I mean it works it's not scrap bearing etc good and it charges only problem is stripped 12 point socket. Would they replace the shaft ?

altarchsa

I think fooling with replacing the shaft is a waste of your time. I was going to suggest the welding in a bit idea, or the head of a bolt. I can't see why a welded-in bit wouldn't work (should have been the original design to have shoulders on the shaft to allow holding it with just a wrench, IMO).

It's so close to the center of gravity, I can't imagine any problem if it's slightly off center. There's a lot of weight in the armature that has a much greater impact on the balance.

altarchsa

Of course, spending money (for a new/rebuilt one) is always easier and better, if you have it.

CBR786

Okay I have been reading posts on single pulley conversion with the RS pulley hub & according to those posters you don't even need the 12 point spline tool to change belt or hold the shaft ? I could always go with that conversion. I am looking into replacing the bearing in the hub itself rather then buy hub bearing assembly from porsche or aftermarket design. As these fan bearing assemblies are £100 pounds odd. I have already started powder coating fan & casing lol and cleaning engine while it's all open.

Rocket Rob

You need the triple square tool to remove/install the fan belts with or without the RS pulley hub.

elbeee964

Well... It's true you'll need the 3-square to initially assemble the RS pulley.
(So a munged-up 3-square alternator hole would make stock, or RS, pulleys equally challenging.)

But thereafter all you'll need for an RS belt change is an 11mm(?) socket or wrench to take off the three (pulley-half retention) nuts.
No counter-torque worthy of that 3-square is needed for those three RS hub's nuts.

Fact is, once the RS pulley is installed you can retire your 3-square tool to the furthest recesses of your garage tool box - and (unlike your dual belt brethren) not your car's tool kit.

Rocket Rob

Lonnie - I didn't realize that. Thanks for the correction.