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If you posted on the turbo forum you will hear the same thing 11's won't fit on a 964 turbo. Regrettably the massive rear trailing arms are just to big and you will rub either inside or out. 10.5's are the largest that will comfortably fit with any aggressive driving. If you lower the car or use stock camber it will be even less possible.
The RS used 9" fronts the RSR used 9.5's different offset as the Cup Car ET57 fronts vs ET47 rears. Both used 11's ET 5 for the rear. You can convert the rear to narrow body trailing arms if you want the deep offset but it is the only reliable way to do it.
Here are some pics of my RS clone using factory RSR front wheels and the standard speedline RS/RSR rears. You can fit up to 12" on the rear if you do the conversion.
I just went through this process, looking at largest wheel fitments for a widebody C4TL, which uses the stock turbo trailing arms. The consensus is as Anthony mentioned...18x10.5 for max size given aggressive driving style. However, Tuner1 and moacur have done 18x11et56 on their turbos with stock turbo trailing arms with reportedly no issues. Tuner1 reported a clearance of 4mm from the trailing arm (kind of tight ). I'm leaning toward an 18x11et54 BBS E88, but might go a totally different way altogether. You would have to dial in camber to a minimum of -1.5. Tire selection is also critical. 285/30/18 is probably the max you would put on an 18x11.
I just went through this process, looking at largest wheel fitments for a widebody C4TL, which uses the stock turbo trailing arms. The consensus is as Anthony mentioned...18x10.5 for max size given aggressive driving style. However, Tuner1 and moacur have done 18x11et56 on their turbos with stock turbo trailing arms with reportedly no issues. Tuner1 reported a clearance of 4mm from the trailing arm (kind of tight ). I'm leaning toward an 18x11et54 BBS E88, but might go a totally different way altogether. You would have to dial in camber to a minimum of -1.5. Tire selection is also critical. 285/30/18 is probably the max you would put on an 18x11.
You're taking a risk. This has been tried countless times here and there are many claims of it working only to find out later that people had issues and reverted back to better clearance at a huge expense. Don't forget that these cars vary considerably from the factory so what might work on one car might not on another when your cutting it that close.
When you cut it to 4mm from the trailing arm (I am assuming you are talking the tire?) you will rub the tire and trailing arm if you drive normally even with negative camber and rolled fenders. The curvature of the arm will definitely rub the tire if you have 4mm from the wheel to the trailing arm. I was running approximately 7mm spacing (tire to trailing arm) using 10's on my C2 and had to use spacers because I was seeing rubber left behind as the tire was rubbing against the trailing arm and actually removing (polishing) aluminum. The tire can flex a considerable amount under heavy loads and handling. You could play with grinding down the parting line on the casting to gain a few mm but I would be very cautious about doing so. Clearly they intended the parting line to be so massive for a reason. Some things aren't worth pushing. The cons definitely outweigh the pros. Visually you will barely see a difference. Performance wise you will see limited gain if any.
The deep dish speedlines from the RSR are the ultimate 964 jewelry. But you can get a lot of real jewelry even if you can find a set.
I’ve read as high as $30k+
Does anyone make these aftermarket.
even at $2k per wheel seams like a good marketing.
The deep dish speedlines from the RSR are the ultimate 964 jewelry. But you can get a lot of real jewelry even if you can find a set.
I’ve read as high as $30k+
Does anyone make these aftermarket.
even at $2k per wheel seams like a good marketing.
Realy $30k for an original set or RS or RSR speelines. Good to know.
You can try contacting RH they will make a copy to your specs.
On my RS 3.8 replica the owner before me fitted some tramont replica wheels but at the front he kept the suspension mounted inboard and might have used some different front wheel offset compared to the original rs 3.8
I know that the front tramont wheels fitted are 9x18 but I still have to look at the et but by looking at them the outer lip is wider than on the real rs 3.8 and also a small 0.5mm spacer is used
My car runs some agressive camber with bilsteins and cup 2 tyres and the steering feel etc is good but I would still like to mount the suspension outboard as I think it should be on a real rs 3.8
My questions
Do you know the final track width difference between mounting the suspension arms inboard or outboard when using the same wheels?
I see that another wheel choice is the 9.5 rsr size would it be better than the rs 3.8 size?
Any other suggestion on different offsets or et ( not standard ) that is known to make the car better?
@Maxi_z The picture above is prior to switching my car to the outboard setting using the 993 longitudinals I mentioned. Also those are the factory RSR 9 1/2" wheels.
For reference here is a picture after the adjustment. Not the best but might give you an idea. Before and after
On my RS 3.8 replica the owner before me fitted some tramont replica wheels but at the front he kept the suspension mounted inboard and might have used some different front wheel offset compared to the original rs 3.8
I know that the front tramont wheels fitted are 9x18 but I still have to look at the et but by looking at them the outer lip is wider than on the real rs 3.8 and also a small 0.5mm spacer is used
My car runs some agressive camber with bilsteins and cup 2 tyres and the steering feel etc is good but I would still like to mount the suspension outboard as I think it should be on a real rs 3.8
My questions
Do you know the final track width difference between mounting the suspension arms inboard or outboard when using the same wheels?
I see that another wheel choice is the 9.5 rsr size would it be better than the rs 3.8 size?
Any other suggestion on different offsets or et ( not standard ) that is known to make the car better?
Thanks
It depends on whether you are using 964 or 993 longitudinals
964 longitudinals in inner holes - 0mm (stock track width)
93 longitudinals in inner holes - +12.5 mm (on each side)
964 longitudinals in outer holes - +30mm (on each side)
993 longitudinals in outer holes - +42.5 mm (on each side)
10-09-2016, 11:14 PM
). I'm leaning toward an 18x11et54 BBS E88, but might go a totally different way altogether. You would have to dial in camber to a minimum of -1.5. Tire selection is also critical. 285/30/18 is probably the max you would put on an 18x11.
