Removal of carpet adhesive. What's the best way?
#17
Three Wheelin'
I know this is an oldish thread, but I think I've found the easy way to do this!
The simple way seems to be Ice blasting, and I'm considering buying a machine especially if there is enough interest to get the same thing done, plus it's great for cleaning up other parts from engine to running gear.
I'll post some more info for you information.
The simple way seems to be Ice blasting, and I'm considering buying a machine especially if there is enough interest to get the same thing done, plus it's great for cleaning up other parts from engine to running gear.
I'll post some more info for you information.
#18
Wow, a way of cleaning out old glue and stuff that doesn't involve gassing yourself with toxic fumes..... I think there may be a fair amount of call for that, Tom may want a piece of that. The Pit being cleaned out, resprayed inside and out, interesting
Dave
Dave
#19
Rennlist Member
Hi Stuart,
I've seen these in action and they're amazing. Cryo detailing seems to be catching on but this far, cost has been an issue. The process is really impressive. 100% clean after an no toxic mess. Lots of info on underbody detailing out there. Would be really cool to have a small machine in the shop. Good luck with it!
I've seen these in action and they're amazing. Cryo detailing seems to be catching on but this far, cost has been an issue. The process is really impressive. 100% clean after an no toxic mess. Lots of info on underbody detailing out there. Would be really cool to have a small machine in the shop. Good luck with it!
#20
Three Wheelin'
Here is a video from Cyrodetail in the States, I think they are part of TuneRS Motorsports Florida.
This might not be the best video, but it does give an idea of how good it really is.
This might not be the best video, but it does give an idea of how good it really is.
#21
Rennlist Member
#22
Three Wheelin'
David, that's a great thread, but I don't believe chemicals are the way to go.
Ice blasting is a far better solution.
It's quicker and less harmful to the person carrying out the work.
Ice blasting is a far better solution.
It's quicker and less harmful to the person carrying out the work.
#23
I had really good luck using a rubber erase wheel from 3M. It works with a drill bit and takes the bulk of the adhesives off without damaging the paint. What's left over easily wipes away with your favorite chemical adhesive remover. Using the tool creates a lot of dust, but nothing a dust mask and vacuum can't handle. There are cheaper alternatives to the 3M product online.
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cbracerx (05-05-2022)
#24
I had really good luck using a rubber erase wheel from 3M. It works with a drill bit and takes the bulk of the adhesives off without damaging the paint. What's left over easily wipes away with your favorite chemical adhesive remover. Using the tool creates a lot of dust, but nothing a dust mask and vacuum can't handle. There are cheaper alternatives to the 3M product online.
#25
Rennlist Member
I have done this more times than I care to and I found the only easy way is also the unhealthiest.
A gallon of Xylene a good respirator, gloves a few rags and you will have it all removed in no time. A well ventilated room is also needed. Soak the rag dripping wet with xylene and place over desired area. Allow to sit for a few until the adhesive begins to break down. Then you can roll it off with ease. It might not be as healthy but who knows. Spend a few hours using bad chemicals or 5 times as much effort and time using less dangerous chemicals with longer exposure time, dust and mess.
Question is are you going for the clean metal look or just replacing the old with new. If just replacing don't get so bent up about removing the adhesive. The new glue will bond with the old and nobody will ever know. Just remove all the loose stuff and be done.
I would also assume dry ice blasting at a low setting would make easy work of this but I have not tried it.
A gallon of Xylene a good respirator, gloves a few rags and you will have it all removed in no time. A well ventilated room is also needed. Soak the rag dripping wet with xylene and place over desired area. Allow to sit for a few until the adhesive begins to break down. Then you can roll it off with ease. It might not be as healthy but who knows. Spend a few hours using bad chemicals or 5 times as much effort and time using less dangerous chemicals with longer exposure time, dust and mess.
Question is are you going for the clean metal look or just replacing the old with new. If just replacing don't get so bent up about removing the adhesive. The new glue will bond with the old and nobody will ever know. Just remove all the loose stuff and be done.
I would also assume dry ice blasting at a low setting would make easy work of this but I have not tried it.
#26
Cobalt. i set up a dry ice blasting on my interior for the 16th of this month. But I have found some corrosion under my seam seal in the interior. Certain parts. I'm thinking dryice blasting won't take all the glue and seam seal off. I might need to switch to media Blasting. what are your thoughts?
#27
Three Wheelin'
Hi guys,
Just did a major dry ice blasting on my car. Since I have all the carpets out for the looms refub, I thought I ask the guy to blast the remain glu as I am thinking painting the inside front of the car and tunel.
When he tried to blast the remain glu from the engine pad he did not succed to remove it proprely, so I ask him to live the interior, I will keep on cleaning it with Xylen by applying big rags soked with it.
Maybe dry ice cleaning with a very powerful compressor could work.
Just did a major dry ice blasting on my car. Since I have all the carpets out for the looms refub, I thought I ask the guy to blast the remain glu as I am thinking painting the inside front of the car and tunel.
When he tried to blast the remain glu from the engine pad he did not succed to remove it proprely, so I ask him to live the interior, I will keep on cleaning it with Xylen by applying big rags soked with it.
Maybe dry ice cleaning with a very powerful compressor could work.
#28
Rennlist Member
Dry ice has its limits from what I hear. It can remove dirt and grime without damaging paint at low pressure settings and can remove everything down to the bare metal on high. I don't think there is much in between.
Media blasting is like dry ice on high and will remove everything. You might get away with walnut shells but I suspect the finish of the paint will be ruined. The issue with media blasting is you will be there forever removing the media from the nooks and crannies. That stuff gets in everywhere. They really went to town in some places with the glue and not much can remove it without chemicals to break down the bond. Some have said that freezing the thick stuff and then cracking it away is effective.
Media blasting is like dry ice on high and will remove everything. You might get away with walnut shells but I suspect the finish of the paint will be ruined. The issue with media blasting is you will be there forever removing the media from the nooks and crannies. That stuff gets in everywhere. They really went to town in some places with the glue and not much can remove it without chemicals to break down the bond. Some have said that freezing the thick stuff and then cracking it away is effective.
Last edited by cobalt; 05-09-2022 at 08:27 AM.
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kos11-12 (05-08-2022)
#29
The rubber wheel is rated up to 2500 RPM. The product literature says it works most efficiently at 2200 RPM.
Last edited by 3DE; 05-08-2022 at 03:10 PM.
#30
Anthony, Yes that Media blasting sand was everywhere. I restored this new 993S 23 years ago. Turned out good. But the floors were recovered with original foam and carpet. If it's an open painted floor then you'll see the sand. I might give aircraft stripper a chance this week.