Thank you for the links.

Reading through, it looks rather daunting, that I can deal with... however I'm lacking quite a few specialist tools it seems....

Don't know what to do now... I'll have a little google for the tools.

 

what tools?

 

Well I have to check what I have at my disposal but I've found all I need online

My main fear is the brake lines...

 

I just used a chinese 'dremel' that cost about $15 total!

Maybe somthing like this would do ... or even just a hacksaw blade ...
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/mini-el...ools-kit-24812

actually this one looks better ...
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/mini-el...ools-kit-32302

It didn't take too long to grind a slot in that metal plate. After a thin slot was cut, then I could just bend the metal to open it up and slide out the brake line.

 

You don't have to undo the brake lines to fit the KW suspension. The brake line slides into the tab and is secured by a spring clip:



You can see the caliper swung out the way here after the clip has been removed:



If your present strut doesn't have an open tab for the brake line you'll have to do as SML suggests to release the brake line before dropping the strut out.

 

Hi, Did mine with no special tools (will need a spring compressor) I cut a slot in on the strut to allow easy removal/replacement of the brake lines.

Have a look on http://www.964uk.com under supension, good write up there

also on here under 993 suspension diy is useful, believe the front is the same

 

it´s no big deal. I mounted the coils by myself too.
My Main Problem was the nut on the top of the front shock absorbers. I had no other tools than a chisel to "loose" the both nuts.
For thightning the nuts, i´d to borrow a special tool form a shop in near...

 

Thanks guys, you really have inspired confidence, I think I'll be doing the job myself I'll have to do a little right up on how I got on!

Mind you one last question... The place I'm planning on carrying out the procedure myself is a 100miles away from the garage that would carry out the geometry etc... is it safe to drive this distance before the geometry etc has been done?

 

I am always at the end of the phone if you have any questions, besides am not too far to come down and lend a hand if you get stuck!

As for the ride, with 18's it will be a very hard ride and you will no longer enjoy all those lovely country roads quite how you do now. There is a lot of extra compliance in 17" tyres over 18".

Come out for a ride in mine and see what you think before going ahead.

If you only want to go a tad lower and mildly stiffen up you could simply go with some Eibach springs on your standard dampers. Not ideal I know, but is cheap and simple.

 

Makes sense fortunately I have a set of 17" Cup1s so I'll be able to compare... Ha, that's currently what I have standard dampers and Eibach springs!

I'll definitely take up that offer of a ride next time and thanks for the lending hand/ phone offer just what I was hoping you'd say (hopefully i won't have to bother you tho)!

 

Ignore the post above.
You do not need to worry about this as you are buying complete new coilovers. The guy above must have replaced springs.
You do NOT have to touch the nut on the top of the front shock absorbers.
The old full coilover unit drops out and the full unit drops in.

 

I´d to use my old shock mount flanges, because they were still ok.
The H&R coilover-kit does not include them.

 

KW V3 for me, as Steve said geo is most importante.... tyres pressure, sway bars, bushes and good bearings ect.... will make the differences ....
love them

Konstantin

 

I've just seen that KW do a variant 1, which seems very reasonably priced - UK Larkspeed offer this at £1225 all-in. You get height adjustment, but none of the whistles and bells of the V3.

 

I just got them