sml

I am thinking of installing my new JIC coilovers myself.

Following this guide it looks straightforward for the front:
http://p-car.com/diy/sus/
http://www.porsche964.co.uk/technical/jclowering.htm

Except ...

a) I have a C4 and need to disconnect the brakeline from the strut. Is it really ok to dremel a gap in the bracket to slide out the hose? Or is it necessary to 'break' the brake line to remove?

b) I have the RS height specs, but how do I know what height to set the adjustable base of the coilover before installation. I don't want to remove/replace the coilover numerous times to set the height. After the base section is bolted, can I rotate the whole shock/spring to adjust the base, or do I just set the base 'close enough' and do all the adjustment via the spring perch?

LouZ

..

nidon

Hi, Dremmelled mine no problems, used retaining clips from 944 to re-attach as these seemed to fit better (maybe just coincidence)

sml

I had a look at the JIC Cross coilovers and they are manufactured with the cut-out!

I am going to try to install these tonight!

Thanks.

paa502

Please post follow-up. GL.

sml

That seems logical for the fine tuning, but where do I start with the position of the adjustable base section before installation?

Nader Fotouhi

With HD+reds on a C2, I set the lower purch close to the bottom on the threaded column. After ride height adjustement by the shop (I asked for RS+15), there is no more than one turn of threads left. In reality, it does not matter if you do not get it close because once the car unweighted, the collor turns easily enough to adjust the ride height.

sml

which collar? there are two.

i would like to make 98% of the height adjustment via the base adjustment collar not the spring collar.

it does not appear that the base adjustment collar can be rotated once installed, so once the two hex bolt are screwed, that base setting is fixed.

i would like to use the full range of the shock, hence I would like to set the base extension accurately before installing.

sml

Thanks

Just spent 4 hours on the front corner.

1. Dremel job took about 1.5 hrs, but my tip is to cut a slice through the gap, then just bend out of the way with pliars.

2. Everything unbolted easily enough.

3. However there were 2 major probs ...

Problem 1 ... after unbolting the top, the shock started to sag and I could not squeeze the coilover out from the car. the base was stuck on the steering rod and the top still squeezed in at the top. i couldn't work out how to compress the original coilover to squeeze it out.

Problem 2 ... i still would only be completely guessing with the coilover base adjustment setting, and I didn't want to pull it out 5 times to get the base height setting right .. and even then, I am not really sure what is right!?

Problem 3 .. do i actually trust that the spring compression collar is set correctly from the factory? should that be checked somehow?

4. Bolted everything back together

Unkle

Problem 1
I thought you undo the bottom 2 bolts and then the 4 small bolts on the top to allow it to be pulled out, using the front jacking point should allow enough drop

Problem 2
I have fitted coilovers to lots of non p-cars , and for my sins 2 sets in 24 hours on another car last year. Unless I dont fully understand your problem, can't you just set the collar in the middle of the thread range to start?

Drive to a petrol station slowly.
Fill to the max this will be enough time for the suspension to settle.
Drive back.
Then measure to Datum twice to make sure you numbers match.
Raise a corner and take the wheel off.
adjust the collar then measure the amount its moved.
drop the car and measure at datum, allow a little for settling again.
repeat on other side.

Drive for a week and recheck once fully settled, I didn't think it was that difficult, and once its done you never really need to touch it. You shouldn't need to take it all off, unless, as i say, i have really misread your post.

sml

i think i understand the height setting now ..

a) the spring seat is locked in place because there is an allen key bolt that presumably locks it in place.

b) you use the spring seat collar to adjust the height but because the spring seat is fixed, you are really just turning the shock/strut - which I just tested and the spring & shock can be rotated within the top camber plate.

I think I understand the height setting! ... you never actually adjust the spring seat. that is fixed .. ALL adjustment is by the base adjustment.

I think!?!?

sml

thanks for the height setting tips

now we need to remove this original strut ... yes the top 4 bolts and bottom 2 bolts were removed, but as the coilover sagged, it just became jammed up with the base resting against the steering arm and the top still stuck and it could not be squeezed out.

so i am thinking ..

a) should i remove the sway bar link that might help the hub lean further and provide more space
b) should i remove the steering arm - not sure how?
c) should i just try to undo the bolts very quickly in 5 seconds before the strut sags 10mm, hence jamming it within the car. maybe if i work quick i can get it out before it get stuck.

Unkle

Can you post a quick link to a picture of the coilover type you bought?

sml

oh and btw ... i dragged my OEM cup wheel over the concrete ... face down!!!

Unkle

oh sh.. , thats not good.

mine is up in the air ready to fit new suspension, but its at home so i am trying to look at it from memory. I can't remember it saying anywhere about remove the ARB/sway bar. If you want to take the load off most ARB jack up both sides it it might give you a little more room.