Little Cost Effective mods to do?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Little Cost Effective mods to do?
Just wondering what are some minors mods you can do that won't cost an arm and leg for example: Strut Tower Brace
All in the name of performance/handling.
All in the name of performance/handling.
#5
Three Wheelin'
A very cheap mod that made the car "feel" faster was drilling out the airbox. I agree with a good alignment. After that the best way to get the car to handle better is to train the driver. Get to the track, get some instruction. Nothing came close to making my car faster. Enjoy!
#6
IHI KING!
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Less than $20
Cup holder
ipod adapter
Less than $100
Adrian's book
Rennlist membership
Oil change tools (oversize oil pan, oil filter wrench)
Couple hundred
Strut bar
H4's
Cup holder
ipod adapter
Less than $100
Adrian's book
Rennlist membership
Oil change tools (oversize oil pan, oil filter wrench)
Couple hundred
Strut bar
H4's
Trending Topics
#9
#12
Three Wheelin'
Mods?
Strut brace
G pipe
Remove rear wiper
Remove rear seats
Purely cosmetic, and cheap
Replace coloured swich faces with white 993 ones
Replace Hazard switch with 993/968 red one
#13
Rennlist Member
964 C4 specific, the RS bars that came on my car way back when............it was full soft front, full stiff rear.
Right now I've got the rear bar on the C4S disconnected for the winter with the skinny 235 snow tires in the rear. 205's front. Car is well behaved with mild understeer both on the little dry pavement I've seen in the past 6 weeks (4K miles), and heavy snow I screwed around in "just to check."
#14
Rennlist Member
"Larger rear sway bar, not smaller. That made a huge difference on mine." Your right, smaller on a C-4.
I believe i installed a 21mm in mine, and also noticed decreased udersteer.
I believe i installed a 21mm in mine, and also noticed decreased udersteer.
#15
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For performance and handling...
Performance.
There are heaps of threads on here but from my experience cheapest and great bang for your buck is
Accelracing chip : $@100 on eBay
OR
Steve Wong chip $400 @911chips.com
Primary muffler bypass: eBay or maxspeed-motorsports. @$250
KN panel filter or EVOMS intake: @$60/$250 respectively.
I had my car set up like this for the first two years and it was very quick and enjoyable on the road and track.
I used an accelracing chip and it was great value for money.
I am now getting a Steve Wong Chip as my car has had cams installed and I need to customise. Otherwise, I was happy with the accelracing chip and they are a doddle to fit.
These mods will definately bring you up to around 200kw or a 16kwplus gain over stock. Mine dynoed @ 210kw (crank) with these mods.
The car will go much harder and have much better throttle response.
Handling.
Shocks/springs. Personally I like my koni's with HR reds but there are heaps of other options.
BIG difference as mentioned is sway bars.
I took mine to local manufacturer and got 24mm bars made front and rear with 3 way adjust.
Cost was about $200 a bar.
As you are in US, parts are cheap so i would recommend you look at the HR swaybar set, think they are around $500 a set and run 24mm front, 26mm rear. They are adjustable.
This will dramatically improve your turn in and the stability.
And surely, going smaller rear swaybar will increase grip at the rear and hence increase understeer?
I initially installed RS size bars (24mm front, 18mm rear) on my C2 and it had massive understeer. This is why I replaced it with a 24mm rear bar.
I know when i want my car taily (loose at the rear), I stiffen up the rear bar, soften the front and get more front bite.
When i am at a high speed track and want the car neutral or with slight understeer, I stiffen up the front and leave the rear hard as well.
I can imagine the only way a smaller rear bar may give oversteer would be undesirable roll oversteer as the rear is so soft it falls over itself. That said, a lot of you guys commenting a dedicated racers, so maybe I'm wrong but i know how adjusting my bars has differed the handling on my car as above.
Lastly, a decent set of brake pads.
I highly recommend Project Mu.
I have used Porterfield, Pagid in all compounds, Hawk in various compounds and EBC and in my experience, nothing comes close to the Project Mu.
The pad I use is a street/ track pad and really does do both well. It has a massive temperature range starting at zero and going even higher than Pagid black. They have fantastic bite and pedal feel. They are sensational on even the most demanding high braking circuits and I can't speak more highly of them. Should be around $250 a set.
Tie this all in with a decent wheel alignment with at least 2 deg neg up front and your car will be transformed.
Al the above mods give excellent bang for your buck.
The next step after this starts to cost $$$$
Performance.
There are heaps of threads on here but from my experience cheapest and great bang for your buck is
Accelracing chip : $@100 on eBay
OR
Steve Wong chip $400 @911chips.com
Primary muffler bypass: eBay or maxspeed-motorsports. @$250
KN panel filter or EVOMS intake: @$60/$250 respectively.
I had my car set up like this for the first two years and it was very quick and enjoyable on the road and track.
I used an accelracing chip and it was great value for money.
I am now getting a Steve Wong Chip as my car has had cams installed and I need to customise. Otherwise, I was happy with the accelracing chip and they are a doddle to fit.
These mods will definately bring you up to around 200kw or a 16kwplus gain over stock. Mine dynoed @ 210kw (crank) with these mods.
The car will go much harder and have much better throttle response.
Handling.
Shocks/springs. Personally I like my koni's with HR reds but there are heaps of other options.
BIG difference as mentioned is sway bars.
I took mine to local manufacturer and got 24mm bars made front and rear with 3 way adjust.
Cost was about $200 a bar.
As you are in US, parts are cheap so i would recommend you look at the HR swaybar set, think they are around $500 a set and run 24mm front, 26mm rear. They are adjustable.
This will dramatically improve your turn in and the stability.
And surely, going smaller rear swaybar will increase grip at the rear and hence increase understeer?
I initially installed RS size bars (24mm front, 18mm rear) on my C2 and it had massive understeer. This is why I replaced it with a 24mm rear bar.
I know when i want my car taily (loose at the rear), I stiffen up the rear bar, soften the front and get more front bite.
When i am at a high speed track and want the car neutral or with slight understeer, I stiffen up the front and leave the rear hard as well.
I can imagine the only way a smaller rear bar may give oversteer would be undesirable roll oversteer as the rear is so soft it falls over itself. That said, a lot of you guys commenting a dedicated racers, so maybe I'm wrong but i know how adjusting my bars has differed the handling on my car as above.
Lastly, a decent set of brake pads.
I highly recommend Project Mu.
I have used Porterfield, Pagid in all compounds, Hawk in various compounds and EBC and in my experience, nothing comes close to the Project Mu.
The pad I use is a street/ track pad and really does do both well. It has a massive temperature range starting at zero and going even higher than Pagid black. They have fantastic bite and pedal feel. They are sensational on even the most demanding high braking circuits and I can't speak more highly of them. Should be around $250 a set.
Tie this all in with a decent wheel alignment with at least 2 deg neg up front and your car will be transformed.
Al the above mods give excellent bang for your buck.
The next step after this starts to cost $$$$
Last edited by Jimjacqmx5; 01-16-2011 at 05:33 PM.