user 783003

I drove the car for about 3 hours yesterday. So far, I'm not sure I notice $260 worth of difference. I'm glad I did it looking at the old ones, but based on prior reviews, I expected to feel a big change. I don't. Maybe I'll feel it when at the A/X this weekend.

964enthus

don't we all do need a defintion of what "sagging " means ?
is a gap of 1 cm acceptable ?
from what sort of gap size is replacement a necessity ?

Pesty

Also is it an easy job as it apears to be? just undoing 1 nut and two bolts?

boxsey911

In theory, yes it is but don't forget to take the weight of the engine first by putting a floor jack underneath. However, the nuts can by hard to break free and people have been known to bend the engine carrier while trying to get them undone.

user 783003

Very easy, given the right tools. What I didn't have at first, I had to buy, everything else was in my normal metric socket set. I bought a 1/2" drive 19mm deep socket. It has to be deep to get the nut off of the long mounting bolt, but moreso to get the nut on the even longer 993 mounting bolt. Also, I bought a 12" extension for a 1/2" drive ratchet. Also, as I have a 3/8" torque wrench, I bought a 3/8" female to 1/2" male socket convertor.

Process:

Floor jack under engine, lift it up an inch or two. If the tires come off the ground, you've lifted too much.
19mm nut off the bottom of the passenger side.
2 bolts removed from the top on passenger side.
Remove old mount.
Install new mountusing the original nuts, bolts and turning the triangle washers backwards.
Torque bottom nut to 62fp, top bolts to 17fp.
Driver's side is the same, except you'll have to remove or at least move the bottom cat shield. I removed 4 of the 5 bolts and it slid out of the way.

Once I had all of the right tools, it was a 30 minute job.

Pesty

Thank you guys Love this site.

I have all those tools even a torque wrench so should be ok (although this car always seems to defeat me even doing simple jobs) I will soak the nuts with wd or similar I have learned things don;t budge on a 20 year old car.

I have ordered the wevo blacks as I don't track my car may buy the blue inserts at a latter date.

I will have a hunt around for a pic of where to jack the engine Thanks for the tip that is exactly what I was wondering (how far to jack the engine) I have a decent jack just never used it on the Engine though.

user 783003

Jack goes right in the center, on the lowest part of the engine where the two case halves meet. Can't miss it if the lower undertray is removed. I use a hockey puck on the floor jack cradle so it's not metal on metal. I imagine a piece of 2x4 would work.

christallon

Yes, 2x4 works perfectly. You don't have to jack it too high either. Just enough to get the weight up, and off the carrier. You will Love the Wevo's!

user 783003

Like I said earlier, if the back wheels come off the ground, you've jacked it up too far for this job.

Pesty

Thanks again guys. looking forward to doing this. should be a simple enough job.

nvrlft

All, just completed this job today with great assistance from the 10 yo future owner. Car definitely feels more solid. I shan't belabor; the job was exactly as described above and very doable. The only issue was all 4 13mm bolts were badly corroded and will need replacing (5 minute job, no jacking needed). Only recommendation from here would be to buy all new hardware along with the Motor Mount of your choice. I purchased washers from Home Depot prior to install.

As I stated in an earlier post my mounts were the originals and thoroughly hosed.

John

braol

Be careful as Home Depot washers might cause dissimilar metal corrosion to your bolts. I always get matching washers from the stealership.

Silvertarga

Would stainless washers work out or would they cause galling?

Makmov

There are no washers that really work. I tired stainless washers and they don't fit, and just bent up. Porsche shows no washers for the 993 mount so that is what I went with: no washers at all.

nvrlft

ok...I need to go back in and replace the bolts anyway.
Which...leads to another conundrum.

The original bolt, PET #900-378-055-09 has been superceded by #900-378-055-01-OEM.
The specs are different: 8 x 45 S2 vs 8 x 40. Is the new one ok to use? They are kind of expensive and I don't want to screw this up.

Thanks for any insight.
John

EDIT/UPDATE: Looks like part #900.074.134.02 will work. It is an 8 x 45 S2 bolt as per the original. Ordered '4' from Sunset (no affiliation)