Squeaky CCU fan DIY
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Squeaky CCU fan DIY
I'm following the instructions in the DIY section hoping to cure my squeaky CCU fan.
My problem is that I'm having great difficulty removing the CCU: I insert the radio removal tools in the two holes on each side of the CCU, to the length of about 1 inch, and then apply outwards pressure on each. My understanding is that this releases catches on the side of the CCU, enabling it to be pulled out.
However, the unit wont pull out ... it appears to be very tightly in place. Also, it's a little tricky pulling on the removal tools themselves, as they obviously tend to slide straight out! So I've been gently pulling on the *****.
Can someone who has done this job offer any tips? The DIY doesn't mention if one needs to undo anything under the dash before pulling out the CCU ... but it almost feels like the unit is attached at the rear - and I can't see the rear of the unit without removing stuff under the dash.
Thanks!
My problem is that I'm having great difficulty removing the CCU: I insert the radio removal tools in the two holes on each side of the CCU, to the length of about 1 inch, and then apply outwards pressure on each. My understanding is that this releases catches on the side of the CCU, enabling it to be pulled out.
However, the unit wont pull out ... it appears to be very tightly in place. Also, it's a little tricky pulling on the removal tools themselves, as they obviously tend to slide straight out! So I've been gently pulling on the *****.
Can someone who has done this job offer any tips? The DIY doesn't mention if one needs to undo anything under the dash before pulling out the CCU ... but it almost feels like the unit is attached at the rear - and I can't see the rear of the unit without removing stuff under the dash.
Thanks!
#2
Burning Brakes
I am able to wiggle my hand in from behind and push the unit out. It is a very tight fit and I struggle to get my hand back out. However it works for me and I have done it several times.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#3
Rennlist Member
Push the u tools in until they either click or stop. They will engage at full depth. Then pull on them and the unit will come out.
The electrical connectors pivot. Looking at the top of the ccu, the top one pivots to the right and the longer bottom one to the left. Gently pry the connectors up at the ends opposite of the pivots.
Use a small dab of white lithium grease at both ends of the fan spindle when re-lubricating.
The electrical connectors pivot. Looking at the top of the ccu, the top one pivots to the right and the longer bottom one to the left. Gently pry the connectors up at the ends opposite of the pivots.
Use a small dab of white lithium grease at both ends of the fan spindle when re-lubricating.
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
I push the tools right in, all the way, but as soon as I pull them, they slide right out again, without bringing out the CCU. I managed to get my hand in round the back, and push the right hand side of the CCU slightly out, but the left hand side refuses to budge.
Surely this should be easy - it feels like the tools aren't catching on anything at all. They take some wiggling around before they will push all the way in.
Any other ideas/suggestions most welcome :-)
Surely this should be easy - it feels like the tools aren't catching on anything at all. They take some wiggling around before they will push all the way in.
Any other ideas/suggestions most welcome :-)
#5
Rennlist Member
Julian,
The tools depress a section on the radio chassis that is shaped like a barb which normally catches the side of the frame. Meanwhile, when retracting the tool, there should be a shaped end on each tool that catches on the chassis, thus pulling the complete radio out. In theory this is how it works, but the tool usually doesn't exert enough force before breaking free. Instead, with both tools inserted push and wiggle the radio from behind. The tools must be in over an inch in depth IIRC before the depress the barb. I would recommend putting masking tape on the soft section of dash right below the radio because the unit can't be pulled far enough out to easily remove the 2 connectors. You might mar the vinyl as you struggle to release these.
The tools depress a section on the radio chassis that is shaped like a barb which normally catches the side of the frame. Meanwhile, when retracting the tool, there should be a shaped end on each tool that catches on the chassis, thus pulling the complete radio out. In theory this is how it works, but the tool usually doesn't exert enough force before breaking free. Instead, with both tools inserted push and wiggle the radio from behind. The tools must be in over an inch in depth IIRC before the depress the barb. I would recommend putting masking tape on the soft section of dash right below the radio because the unit can't be pulled far enough out to easily remove the 2 connectors. You might mar the vinyl as you struggle to release these.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Julian,
The tools depress a section on the radio chassis that is shaped like a barb which normally catches the side of the frame. Meanwhile, when retracting the tool, there should be a shaped end on each tool that catches on the chassis, thus pulling the complete radio out. In theory this is how it works, but the tool usually doesn't exert enough force before breaking free. Instead, with both tools inserted push and wiggle the radio from behind. The tools must be in over an inch in depth IIRC before the depress the barb. I would recommend putting masking tape on the soft section of dash right below the radio because the unit can't be pulled far enough out to easily remove the 2 connectors. You might mar the vinyl as you struggle to release these.
The tools depress a section on the radio chassis that is shaped like a barb which normally catches the side of the frame. Meanwhile, when retracting the tool, there should be a shaped end on each tool that catches on the chassis, thus pulling the complete radio out. In theory this is how it works, but the tool usually doesn't exert enough force before breaking free. Instead, with both tools inserted push and wiggle the radio from behind. The tools must be in over an inch in depth IIRC before the depress the barb. I would recommend putting masking tape on the soft section of dash right below the radio because the unit can't be pulled far enough out to easily remove the 2 connectors. You might mar the vinyl as you struggle to release these.
#7
Nordschleife Master
Check under the dash to see if the two cables have been tied which prevents them from moving. Mine would only come out about an inch until I realised the cables were restricting the movement.
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#8
Racer
Thread Starter
Update - the CCU is *almost* out :-)
Still struggling to get the CCU out.
The faceplate comes off rather easily, which reveals the spring catches. My radio removal tool was having no effect on the left hand side catches, but with the cover off I was able to release them easily just by inserting a wooden coffee stirrer between each and the case.
Then the CCU could be pulled out a way. The windscreen washer stalk gets in the way a little, as does the cruise control stalk. However, the main problem is that the unit wont come out far enough so that I can get a hand behind to detach the cable plugs.
I can't get to the cable plugs from under the dash, with the unit pushed in, let alone see enough of what I'm doing to unclip them and pull them out. It seems this is a Catch 22 problem. Why am I having so much trouble with this ostensibly simple little job?!?!?
I'd welcome some suggestions again.
For info, here are some pics. I'm interested in the small thermistor that is in the tube to the left of the CCU ... it must be used to measure cabin temperature. The odd thing is that it's mounted on a slider that can move backwards and forwards in the tube a little ... anyone know why?
CCU cover removed - pairs of prongs on catches are visible on both sides of the CCU
CCU cover:
Rear of CCU cover (note thermistor tube on RHS - mine was almost plugged with dust, so I took the opportunity of blowing it clear):
CCU on its way out - note proximity to column stalks
The faceplate comes off rather easily, which reveals the spring catches. My radio removal tool was having no effect on the left hand side catches, but with the cover off I was able to release them easily just by inserting a wooden coffee stirrer between each and the case.
Then the CCU could be pulled out a way. The windscreen washer stalk gets in the way a little, as does the cruise control stalk. However, the main problem is that the unit wont come out far enough so that I can get a hand behind to detach the cable plugs.
I can't get to the cable plugs from under the dash, with the unit pushed in, let alone see enough of what I'm doing to unclip them and pull them out. It seems this is a Catch 22 problem. Why am I having so much trouble with this ostensibly simple little job?!?!?
I'd welcome some suggestions again.
For info, here are some pics. I'm interested in the small thermistor that is in the tube to the left of the CCU ... it must be used to measure cabin temperature. The odd thing is that it's mounted on a slider that can move backwards and forwards in the tube a little ... anyone know why?
CCU cover removed - pairs of prongs on catches are visible on both sides of the CCU
CCU cover:
Rear of CCU cover (note thermistor tube on RHS - mine was almost plugged with dust, so I took the opportunity of blowing it clear):
CCU on its way out - note proximity to column stalks
#9
Burning Brakes
Sorry for your troubles. I just took mine out this morning. Stuck cut pieces of coat hanger in the holes and then put my hand under the dash and pushed it right out. Your cables must be tied or caught on something.
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks - I just managed to get it out! It turned out that one of the cable ties was just catching on the inside of the frame. With a bit of wiggling the whole thing emerged enough so that I could detach the connectors.
#11
Burning Brakes
Generally rule for me is there is usually one issue with every project. If I need to remove 4 bolts, 1 of them will be impossible.
Glad to hear you were able to get it out. Good luck.
Glad to hear you were able to get it out. Good luck.
#12
zip tie on harness
Like the original poster, my CCU didn't seem to want to come out. I thought it was a problem with the DIN latches not disengaging, but it turned out that there was no slack at all in the wire harness. Looking up from under the dash, I saw a plastic tie wrap holding the harness tight. I cut away the tie wrap and was able to slowly get the CCU to come out. The connector was the next very tight part... tenacious grip. I guess that might be expected after 22 years.