Das roll bar install tips
#1
Race Car
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Any tips before I start the install...I would rather NOT spend 3 hours doing this!
thanks
Dwane
New seats and wheel as well.
thanks
Dwane
New seats and wheel as well.
#3
Race Car
Thread Starter
#5
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That's the short version, don't have experience with that one, but since you're doing the seats and wheel it makes it easy. I'd take the wheel off it can get in the way. Get a heavy piece of cardboard or carpet to protect the console since you have to pass it over the tunnel, and do get someone to help. There's alot of stuff you can damage in the process doing it solo...
#6
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I have the same one.
Be prepared to swear a great deal as it is bugger to wedge in. I got one rear bolt in and used a bottle jack to align the other side.
Also, make sure the inertial reels for the front seat belts are perfectly vertical on re-assembly or they will not unroll properly.
Marc
Be prepared to swear a great deal as it is bugger to wedge in. I got one rear bolt in and used a bottle jack to align the other side.
Also, make sure the inertial reels for the front seat belts are perfectly vertical on re-assembly or they will not unroll properly.
Marc
#7
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+1...I also have this one. Actually, I ddin't know there was more than one version. I test fit mine and got it installed in about 3 hours without any special tools. That time includes taking out seats and going slow and careful. It just took lots of experimentation to figure out which order to put the bolts in. I then removed it and got it powder coated. I thought the re-install would be just as easy and quicker since I had already been through it once and thought I had it figured out. Wrong!!! I wrestled with it for about 5-6 hours. Lots of swearing and many thougts of giving up and taking it to the shop that I use. It was just so close so many times and I knew that I had done it before that I couldn't give up. And then, finally, I found the right combination that worked and the feeling almost made it worth all of the struggling. I said almost. It was very frustrating and I wouldn't want to do it again. However, I don't think the fit and the installation experience will neccesarily be typical for everyone. Hopefully, your installation will go nice and smooth. Good luck!
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#8
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I have a DAS Sport bar (used) coming soon. My impression from DAS, and a few other RL'ers was that install was fairly easy. And, I could use it as a "weekender" and "easily" take it in/out (when changing out my Recaro's). I love a challenge, tho.
How do the rear side panels come out? I am sure I can figure it out, but it's always helpful to use someone else's experience, as there are always hidden screws or tricks.
Is it necessary (or a good idea) to add padding to the bar? especially if I decide to leave the bar installed for daily driving?
How do the rear side panels come out? I am sure I can figure it out, but it's always helpful to use someone else's experience, as there are always hidden screws or tricks.
Is it necessary (or a good idea) to add padding to the bar? especially if I decide to leave the bar installed for daily driving?
#9
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I have the same roll bar in my RSA. My roll bar came unpainted. Because my RSA came with no rear seats and that the rear braces on the roll bar mount to the rear seat back pivot holes and my car had to such bolt holes, just rubber plugs in the sheet metal, I had to have two female plugs welded into the car in order to mount the roll bar. Since the welder used the roll bar as somewhat of a locating fixture for the plugs, my roll bar mounts very easily. I can remove or re-install the roll bar in about an hour. I remove both seats, seat belts, then I pry the metal bracket that the seat belt bolt holds in place so that the metal bracket clears the hold that protrudes from the surface. I only need to do this on one side as once one side is free, the other comes right out. Powder coating is definitely the way to go.
#10
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My DAS bar in my street car is the earlier version that goes to the front seatbelt locations rather than the reel mounts. I had to have the mounts installed as well and I decided to keep the storage compartment so it involved nudging everything around loose to get it to fit, including a ratchet strap to pull the uprights in. I would of thought the smaller bar would have been easier! I've had issues with powder coating, the heat used to set the coatings seems to be enough to "re-spring" the bar and you end up doing it all over again...
#11
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Make sure you do not let the seat belts retract fully or they will be damaged. I've done one of these and it will take about 3 hours, including all the busy work of removing the folding rear seat backs and side interior panels. You will have to take the lower screws out of the rear speaker deck. Also, to make you life easier, remove the front seats and have a friend help you. Makes it easier to get the bar into the car.
The install on this bar is very straight forward and if buying used, you can get the step by step installation instructions of the DAS Sport website.
The install on this bar is very straight forward and if buying used, you can get the step by step installation instructions of the DAS Sport website.
#12
Agent Orange
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Let me chime in as well, as I've done this several times on different cars.
1. Take your time. Don't rush it, go slowly and take a break if you hit a brick wall.
2. The rear panels have to be arched slightly in order to come out. Do it slowly, or you may bend and crease them.
3. Don't let the rear seat belts retract all the way. Wedge something in the reel to not let the webbing move.
4. The cross member goes in first. I don't remember having lots of issues with that, it was pretty straight forward.
5. The actual bar might fit in easy or it might not. I've experienced both. If it doesn't, do the rear bolts first, as the fronts are somewhat easier to do. Use a big flat head screwdriver to align the holes where the bolts go through. Bolt them up loosely until all 4 bolts are in. Then torque them down.
6. Once it goes in, you'll never want to take it out again.
Best of luck!
1. Take your time. Don't rush it, go slowly and take a break if you hit a brick wall.
2. The rear panels have to be arched slightly in order to come out. Do it slowly, or you may bend and crease them.
3. Don't let the rear seat belts retract all the way. Wedge something in the reel to not let the webbing move.
4. The cross member goes in first. I don't remember having lots of issues with that, it was pretty straight forward.
5. The actual bar might fit in easy or it might not. I've experienced both. If it doesn't, do the rear bolts first, as the fronts are somewhat easier to do. Use a big flat head screwdriver to align the holes where the bolts go through. Bolt them up loosely until all 4 bolts are in. Then torque them down.
6. Once it goes in, you'll never want to take it out again.
Best of luck!
#13
Race Car
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4.5 hours in and I don't want to do this. I hope everything is out so I can start to put it back together. I have a bunch of questions guys.
Do the side panels fit back in WITHOUT modification?
I am having a hard time putting the bottom cross bar in. The seat belt reel guide(steel tab with hole) is always in the way, on 1 side or the other. Any tips?
If someone is willing to PM me their #, if I need more help or encouragement, that would be great!
thanks
Dwane
Do the side panels fit back in WITHOUT modification?
I am having a hard time putting the bottom cross bar in. The seat belt reel guide(steel tab with hole) is always in the way, on 1 side or the other. Any tips?
If someone is willing to PM me their #, if I need more help or encouragement, that would be great!
thanks
Dwane
#15
Agent Orange
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Yes
I don't remember that part being particularly difficult, so just take your time and it will fall into place.
Good luck!
Good luck!